Features

• 19-3/4" cast aluminum base is 2X more rigid than a standard 10" base and folding tables
• One-year warranty through the Dewalt factory or an authorized service center
• Three knife cutter-head delivers 30% longer knife life and makes knife change faster and easier
• Two speed gear box allows users to change feed speed to optimizing cuts per inch at 96 or 179 CPI
• Fan-assisted chip ejection vacuums chips off of the cutter-head and exhausts them out of the machine

Amazon.com Review

With the Fein MultiMaster the possibilities--and the tool'scapabilities--are seemingly endless. Here's a list of what Fein saysyou can do with the MultiMaster: sanding, scraping, sawing, rasping,cutting, slicing, and grout removal. And that's just for starters. It'sa compact little 2-1/2-pound tool that sits comfortably in your hand,and, because it oscillates instead of orbiting or rotating, it offersliterally no hand fatigue from vibration. It includes a fabulous bunchof accessories that let you take up old flooring; trim new flooringunder a door; remove old grout; sand anything anywhere; saw into allkinds of material with a .5 mm kerf; remove old paint, adhesives,caulking, oil stains, and graffiti; and plunge cut into drywall forrepairs. It comes in a sturdy case with 30 sheets of sandpaper and allthe accessories, including a book full of projects. There's even anoptional dust-collection accessory (sold separately). The barrel gripfeels great in your hand and makes you want to do all those householdchores you've been putting off. --Kris Jensen-Van Heste ... Read more

Features

• One-year warranty
• Quiet, vibration-free operation
• Detail sander, saw, and scraper in one
• Unique oscillating action
• Virtually eliminates hand operations

Reviews (34)

fabulous versatile tool
I bought one of these three years ago, and use it constantly. As a fine sander, it is without equal. But my favorite are the saw blades -- unbelievable control and precision. I have used it for everything from fine work on veneer, to opening fiddly holes in sheetrock around electrical outlets. Possibly with the exception of my cordless drill, this is the most useful hand tool in my cabinet full of 20-plus power tools!

Truly Fine!
The Fein Multi-Master is one of those products that belittle the competition with its' prowess and ability to be in a class all by itself. It leads the pack in the detail sanding category. The oscillating action is aggressive enough for efficient material removal but appears to delicately handle the surface of the wood with out creating swirling or gouging marks. The oscillations also give it the uncanny ability, using the unique blades, to saw material with control without creating a lot of dust. As far as the scraper, I haven't had any projects yet to test this feature, but am sure it would be valuable. Once I put this tool in my hand, the feel, power and quality of the Fein Multi-Master sold me right away. I thought back at all the situations I struggled in a project that the Fein could have made much easier and faster. This is truly an investment in a power tool though. It and the extra accessories are not cheap, but what tool is that you expect to last a life time and be able to pass on to your kids. The Fein MSXE-636-2 kit is a great start for a full featured product that I'll be proud of for a long time. The safety, precision and features of the Fein will attract others who also feel that you get what you pay for!

Fein Multi Master Wins 5 Stars Plus *****+++++
I installed French Doors off of the living room, with a landing, and handrails, and trimmed out the new opening. The Fein Multimaster was with me all the way. I started off needing a detail sander, that would get into tight places, that the usual sander with a larger motor, hanging out over the triangular sanding head would not reach. The motor head would get in the way. So a long body sander is what I needed. I went to Home Depot and bought a Ryobi, thinking it would suffice for as often as I needed to do corners. Wrong! No matter what grade of paper I put on it, it dug a hole, made a lot of noise, and refused to sand an even plane. I returned it. In disgust, I popped for the Fein Multimaster Kit. Wow, what a difference. The sanding function was smooth, but not so aggressive as to eat holes in the wood. It starts off with such a light touch, that you can even hold one of their jagged teeth cutting blade attachments against your skin without any harm, but when you apply it against the wood, and exert a little pressure, it slices right through it effortlessly, and evenly. So the more resistance, the greater the cutting or sanding action. It is vibration, rather than a stroke. Gives you a lot more control when working up against the edge of something. Truly a masterful tool.
You have the option of buying the sanding head with the holes in it, and the vacuum attachment, giving you relatively dust free sanding. Great if you are working in a clean environment, and don't want to blanket the room.
The cutting blade that comes with it, that is a half moon shape, does a nice job, but is designed as a freebie to go with the system, and is not as durable as their e-cut blades, which aren't cheap. The e-cut blades also are rectangular so they reach into tighter corners. Makes a perfect job, when removing the wood spacer-shims from the door surround, and cutting fine lines in most any application, where precision is the key.
When instaling the trim of the door opening, I had to make a cut at the base, that would meet flush with the tile, for the floor. The flush cutting blade, with its offset design, made me look like Michelangelo. :-) Well OK it is not the Sistine Chapel, but the mating of the wood to the surface of the tile was perfect. No effort, and easy to control. I laid the tile up against the wood, pencil scribed a line, then removed the tile, and cut the wood with the flush bit, just using the pencil line as my guide. Effortless. The fit was so nice, I had to snug the tile in under the line.

Bosch makes a flush cutter also, and the advantage to that, is that the blades are available locally. The problem is that the Bosch is not also a sander, and scraper etc. Cost almost the same, and is a one use tool.
I noticed that the paper for the Fein has a good backer on it. Saves you from a curling end, which leads to a buggered up backing on the sanding pad. Very exacting, and very well made.
You will notice in the Amazon sales rank, that the Fein outsells the Bosch. I love Bosch equipment, so I am not knocking the tool.
The optional mini e-cut blades kit is smaller than you would imagine. Combined with the precision vibration of the tool, enables you to work on smaller scale fine work as well.
When sanding with the coarser grits, and some pressure, you can remove a good deal of material in short order. By using a finer grit, and a softer push, you can polish the surface to a smooth finish.
I have the Fein RT-1800 Router, which is more of an industrial quality piece of equipment, and this Multi-Master will give me many years of reliable service, the same as the router. Fein makes first class stuff.
This is one of those tools, that you don't use as often as a cordless drill, but when you need to do something that it does, it's done effortlessly, and beautifully. Strong, yet gentle, durable yet light. It's the perfect mix. Definitely a five star piece of equipment, and worth every penny of it's hefty price tag. Buy it, you won't be sorry.

Learn one of the boat bulders secrets
I first saw this Fein sander in a tool store in Portland, Maine. They were flying off the shelves to boat builders and owners for their wood boats. I had wanted a sander to get into corners and for fine finish work and after feeling the power and very little vibration, I was impressed. At the time though I thought the price was extremely high. Not only for the tool, but also for the sand paper and other accessories.

To make a long story short, I coughed up the money and bought the Fein sander and have never looked back. I rarely use my other sanders because this one can be used for almost any application. I have pulled up a old linolium floor with the floor tool (very easy) and done a lot of sanding. Nothing cuts wood better than this sander and the speed controls and comfortable position in your hand make it a winner. You also have no after effects of vibration when using this sander for long periods of time.

Is it worth the money? Yes, every penny.
Are there any negatives? Accessories including sand paper are expensive and hard to find in local stores. Most purchases for these items are made over the web. Even Amazon has reduced the amount of sand paper options they sell.

Best tip? Make sure you order a hook and loop sanding head and sand paper. It is a much easier system if you sand a lot.

Don't be cheap, buy the best. This Fein is very fine.

I paid all that money for this?!?
I have wanted a Fein Multi-Master for years. I read a review of it in Fine
Homebuilding a couple years ago, and the reviewer raved about it. He said
the first thing he did with it was to take it out in the back yard and cut tree
roots with it. I thought, wow, a fine detail sander/flush cutter that is so
tought it can cut tree roots too?! I had to have one. But, it's expensive, so
it had to wait.

Finally, I figured I'd waited long enough, and I was about to start a big flooring

job where I knew I'd be doing a lot of flush cutting of door jams and trim. So
I bought it. And now I'm wondering how this thing got such an amazing
reputation.

First, I'll say that I haven't tried out it's sanding capability. It's quite possible
that when I do, I'll be able to salvage some of pre-ownership excitement about
the Multi-Master. So I'm just going to comment on it's cutting ability: it sucks.
Specifically, the blade that comes with this kit is a flimsy piece of steel with tiny
little cutting teeth -- probably ideal for cutting parts for your balsa wood airplane
kits, but suboptimal for anything having to do with house construction. Add to that
the fact that unless you really crank down on the bolt that holds the blade in the
tool, the blade slips and doesn't cut at all, resulting in an almost
completely useless tool. But wait, there's more: the bolt that holds the blade is
an allen bolt, and the accompanying wrench is difficult to squarely and fully engage
in the bolt, resulting in easily stripped out bolt heads. Great, right? But wait,
there's even more, and this is what prompted me to write this review this morning:
Today, I was going to try out my recently purchased "E cut" blade (what the heck
is the "E" for?), so I gamely tried to install it on the Multi-Master. Being careful to
fully engage the wrench so as not to strip the bolt, I tightened that thing down,
knowing that if I didn't get it tight enough, the blad would slip and not work at
all. But as I put the final bit of torque on the dumb thing, the washer that goes
between the bolt and the blade SPLIT IN HALF! It was all I could do to not throw
the whole thing in the trash at that point. I really hope this thing sands better than
it "cuts". Cos the thing don't cut it. Save your money. By a decent flush cutting
hand saw and forget you ever heard about this thing. I wish I had.

Addendum (29 June, 2004): I put the "E" cut blade on the other day with the
bolt and washer meant for the sander pads, and I have to admit, it cuts pretty
darn well. Much better than the blade that comes with this kit. I'm raising
my rating from 1 to 2 stars. Maybe as I use this thing more, I'll keep raising
the rating... ... Read more

Features

• Smooth and durable operation
• Worm gear drive
• 4.5 amp, 4,500 rpm motor
• One year warranty/30 day performance certification

Reviews (11)

A Few Things Missing
This is a nice saw that makes very clean and precise cuts. It's lacking a few things however.

Because the motor is so powerful and on the right hand side, the saw spits wood chips upwards into your face as you're trying to follow the cut line. This saw needs a vacuum or dust bag attachment like other Porter circular saws have.

The saw doesn't come with a carrying case, which is unfortunate. Likewise, the rip guide is necessary for making accurate cuts and should have been included with the saw.

The motor is very quiet and the saw is steady when making cuts.

World's best saw for sheet goods and trim...
I have owned this saw for almost two years now. I also own several "side-winder" saws and a Skil brand worm-drive saw. The big Skil worm-drive will always be close for those jobs that require more power and capacity. The Porter Cable 4 1/2" trim saw has replaced all other saws for most of my cutting though. I love the power and light weight packed into this easy to handle marvel. I use it for all of my sheet goods as well as any free-hand 1X cutting. I also loved the roomy steel case that easily holds the saw, and blades.

What a nice little saw
if you use it for what it's meant for, trim and thin stock. I know that after burning one out cutting both sides of 2" oak with one after leaving my old Rockwell 6 1/2" saws in my shop one day. Fortunately, Porter Cable will rebuild them at the factory for a very reasonable price. It's good as new now.

This is a pro's tool, so it doesn't have all the cutesy attachments that home users have come to expect. It will, with the appropriate blades, do a nice job on plexiglass and formica as well as wood.

I'd recommend thin kerf blades with this, and keep 'em sharp.It's more a finish tool than anything else.

Consider other options
While the motor and blade assembly of this tool seem to be up to Porter Cable standards, I'm disapointed in the sole plate of this saw. It is flimsy and not very accurate. So sloppy, in fact, after you adjust the depth of cut you better check to see if the sole is still square to the blade. Oh, and the set screw used to square the sole to the blade when the saw is set to max. depth of cut ... I tried to adjust it and the thing fell out in my hand. By the looks of it, PC didn't bother to thread the hole. They just forced this screw in a few turns, which means you can't back the screw out because it becomes immediately loose. Shoddy. I wish I looked more closely at some of the small cordless options that are out there now.

If It's Good Enough for Norm Abrams!
I have been a home workshop woodworker for over 20 years and I am a fan of Norm Abrams' work. I noticed him using this saw on his show for years. I finally decided to spend the money and get one. (I have one child in college and one yet to go.) What a fabulous saw! The primary use I had in mind was for breaking down large sheets of plywood, hardboard, paneling, etc. It is so light weight and handy that the user has complete control of the saw's movement throughout the cut. My experience in cutting 4'x8' sheets, particularly the rip cuts, is that at some point in the cutting process I have to walk around and use my non-dominant hand (I am a lefty). With a standard 7 1/4" circular saw I always felt uncomfortable and invariably felt the saw wander periodically during the cut. Again, because this saw is much smaller and lighter I feel much more control even with my right hand.

I have used it a few times on 3/4" stock (oak and pine) and found it to be not only sufficient but quite aggressive. Overall, I am nothing short of delighted with the product. I own a number of Porter Cable products (e.g.,cordless drill, profile sander and biscuit joiner)and have found all of them to be excellent tools. This one is OUTSTANDING. ... Read more

Features

• Three Spin Modes and Six Adjustable Level and Plumb Line Lengths
• Complete Kit Includes RT-7690-2XP laser, RF remote control/laser detector, NEW 123 Tripod, 9-foot Grade Rod, Rod Bracket, Target, Glasses, AC/DC Adapter, and Kitbox
• Auto Leveling Level and Plumb Rotational Laser
• Combination RF remote control/laser detector allows for one man operation
• Up to 5mW super high-power laser beam is perfect for both indoors and out with a range of 1000 feet (diameter)

Amazon.com

Porter-Cable's palm nailer is growing in popularity among both woodworkers and contractors alike--and for good reason. At first glance, it doesn’t look like much of a powerhouse, but connect it to even a small compressor and you’re driving 6-inch nails no problem. Another great feature: you’re not restricted to one type of nail. Fatigue is minimal, thanks to its light weight (just 2-1/2 pounds!) and ergonomic design. The kit comes with a "no-mar" finish tip, a magnetic tip for driving 3d to 16d common nails, a standard tip for common nails up to 70d, and a steel hammer kit for moldings, dowels, and automotive body work. In hand, it’s super light, compact, and the leather glove makes it a pleasure to use, fitting into nearly any space your hand can get into. Of course, you do have to feed one nail at a time, but this tough little gun is going to drive nails in areas other nail guns would never fit.--Kris Jensen-Van Heste ... Read more

Features

• One year warranty
• Four interchangeable nose tips designed to tackle a wide variety of applications, from finish nailing to auto body work
• Compact, ergonomic design and leather wrap for added comfort and control
• Depth-of-drive control and a fastener range of 1-1/4 to 6-1/2 inches (standard 3d to 70d long nails)
• Multi-bow action (2,300 bpm at 100 psi)

Reviews (10)

this tool could make me a carpenter.
mostly i work with metal and in fact i'm awful at driving nails with a hammer. i bought this versatile tool for miscellaneous homeowner/handyman tasks around the house, because i couldn't justify buying three or four different nail guns for the amount of wood work that i do.
after about a dozen practice nails of various sizes, i'm nailing like a rock star after an arena concert. so far, i've built a couple picture frames, framed in an attic staircase, and built a new workbench, all with ONE great little tool and many different sizes of regular old nails (no pricey nails on strips!).
this is the perfect tool for the amount of work that i do, and i think i could do a lot more before biting the bullet for a gaggle of specialty nail guns.

This thing is great!
I have always used a framing hammer to nail joist hangers and usually on every job I bang my finger once or twice while trying to hold the hanger/nail and hammer. I used this tool for the first time today and was amazed at how smooth it is. It comes with quite a few different accessories for different types of nails and it comes with an air hose connection. I had to nail one hanger with only 5 1/2" between the hanger and the adjacent wall and the palm nailer handled this easily. I was expecting this tool to be rough on the hands but was surprised at it's smoothness and tons of power. This is a tool I wish I had bought years ago.

Great labor saver, fun to use
This tool is a great labor saver, fun to use, and well packaged. I am notoriously bad at driving nails by hand, and this tool has prevented untold amounts of bent nails, bruised thumbs, and sore wrists. I don't know how I ever got along without one. My only complaint: I'm not crazy about the screw-in collar that secures the nailing head to the tool body. As shipped, the collar was screwed in so tightly that while trying to remove it, I damaged one of the included wrenches. Once it finally came off, I had no further problems. However, I'm always worrying that I'll overtighten it again, or that I won't tighten it enough, causing it to vibrate loose during use. Porter-Cable should reconsider the design of the collar mechanism; otherwise, great tool.

3 days work and no crushed fingernails
I bought this after trying it at a tool show. I was surprised at how easily it drove nails into hardwood and softwood. I initially thought that it would make my hand "buzz", but it never causes vibration induced paresthesias. My 14-year old son used it to secure all the joist hangers on a 37 x 25 foot deck we built. I have no complaints.

Very happy w/ my purchase
[...] Cost aside the tools strengths are: 1) small compact size - great for tight spots 2) ease of use - after about 20 nails you get comfortable with it 3) very light - minimal fatigue 4) hammers nails w/ ease 6) runs w/ as low a PSI setting of 50 (MNF recommends 60)- I set my compressor at 100 for framing nails 7) will work with a very small compressor as my 25 gallon's engine hardly goes off (comparison is against my exp with my air ratchet)

If you are a DIY and find yourself wanting to tackle a project that needs driving a large volume of nails, this is a no brainier. The product pays for itself in labor savings easily; you will thank yourself for getting it once you are into your project.
. ... Read more

Features

• Sturdy steel base with four easy-gliding wheels for moving from machine to machine or for storing out of the way
• Standard 1-micron filtration bags for optimal air cleaning
• Snap in bag rings mean no more fussing with cam-over-lock clamps
• Powerful TEFC induction motor for long-lasting, smooth performance with protection from damaging dust
• 6 mil plastic chip collection bags for optimal durability

Amazon.com Review

This may be the most powerful router you'll ever own. Its3-1/4-horsepower, 15 amp motor makes quick work of anything you canfeed it. I expected it to tear out of my hands at startup, but for itsheft, it has an amazingly soft start at every speed: 10,000, 13,000,16,000, 19,000, and 21,000 rpm. This kind of power doesn't come withoutsome noise, so be sure to wear hearing protection. The handles arecomfortable and offer a secure grip, but at 17-1/2 pounds this is aheavier unit than most routers. The plunge depth range is 3 inches, andthere's no doubt this guy can handle it. The ball bearings are 100percent sealed, and a six-position depth-stop turret is a nice touch.It takes 1/2-inch shanks, so it could double as a shaper in a smallershop. Here's another nice plus: a cool auto-release collet system thatends stuck bits--no more wrench-tapping and pleading! It's a beauty ofa machine for heavy routing or production use. It won't disappoint you.--Kris Jensen-Van Heste ... Read more

Features

• Smooth plunge mechanism with fully enclosed springs
• Soft start for smooth performance
• 5 speed 15-amp motor maintains constant speed under load
• Aluminum motor housing prevents heat build-up
• Auto-release collets

Reviews (13)

Super workhorse!!!
This is the most powerful router I have ever used. As a dedicated hobbyist I wanted a router to use with my Incra Jig to make boxes. I originally bought the Bosch 2 HP and tried to make one cut and packed it up and returned to get this PC. The difference in power is amazing when cutting oak and walnut. You will need the adjustment knob accessory to make raising and lowering easier in your table,(I also removed the plunge spring handle to make it easier to adjust). It is very large and heavy so to use it for regular routing I believe would be cumbersome on lighter work. The screws that mount the sole plate are hefty and up to the task. If you need power this fits the bill.

Not the best choice
This is a fine router of its type. The variable speed and soft start features make it work beautifully. The plunge lock is conveniently located and easy to use. Unless you are routing dados on a well supported surface, it's weight and power pretty much requires table mounting. It is too hard to control doing edges. The table mounting is where the shortcomings are noticed. The weight will cause a normal MDF router table to sag fairly quickly if it's left in place, so make sure you mount it on a removeable plate; and remove it when not in use. I mounted a Router Raizer on mine to allow height adjustment from above, but in either case it won't plunge enough to allow me to change bits from the top of the table without modification to the (hardened) wrenches. I think a better choice would be the fixed-based version (PC 7518) used with a JoinTech Master Lift Pro or JessEm Mast-R-Lift(not the Rout-R-Lift).

Strongest most durable router money can buy
We have three at work. Talk about work horse. We even us it to route 3/4" ply and 5/4" lumber, over and over. Our newest is three years old, and besides the electric cable no work has been done to any of them. They do 1/8" coves to flush triming 5/4 to steel, even aluminium and they don't skip a beat. We push ours beyound any limit any designer of the tool had eve thought it would be used and it has with stood. If you want a router that can handle anything then buy this one.

Made for the long run
It's a Porter Cable, isn't it? I'm picky about the tools I buy, I try to buy the very best on my budget, but I haven't had any Porter Cable tool in my hands that wasn't a good one. Made in America, and that still means something to me.

First off, this isn't made for handheld use if you plan on doing a lot of freehand work. Get a smaller, say 1 1/2 to 2 1/4 HP for that. I bought the plunge instead of the fixed base just in case I needed one in a pinch. At 21 pounds and with all the torque of a small diesel engine, it's somewhat of a chore to handle with any precision. I mounted mine on a router table and trust me, it will cut through anything you throw at it with ease. If you run large panel raising bits like I do, make sure you get the 7539 (variable speed) instead of the 7538. It will run these better at a slower speed. When you start up a 3 1/4" bit it sounds like a helocpter is hovering overhead. Much better and safer at 10 to 13000 RPM. Since I had already invested lots of $$$ in router bits, mounting this on a router table only made sense to me.

These are the industry standard, expensive but worth it. If you don't mind paying a little extra, this should last the average woodworker a lifetime.

Almost as good as having a shaper
I have had this router for well over five years now and really put it through its paces. The power is incredible with even the largest of bits. You can take those long half-inch diameter upcut spiral bits and plunge inch-and-a-half deep mortises in solid oak in one pass if you are so inclinded. I don't always use it in a router table because I have only had one router in the past. It is on the heavy side for hand held uses, but the soft start keeps your firmly in control. The only thing lacking is a micro-adjustment for height. An indication of how great this particular model router was made is its longevity over the years as a hallmark Porter Cable product. ... Read more

Features

• Complete with case, pins, oil, coupler, and wrenches
• Shoots 23 gauge pin nails 1/2-inch to 1-inch in length
• Automatically adjusts to length of pin nail - no manual adjustment necessary
• Contoured, padded handle for comfort and control
• Excellent for crafts, intricate work, and hold down for gluing applications

Reviews (8)

NOT a nail gun, it's a pinner
On commercially made frame and panel doors you will notice two tiny little holes (that have been filled) on the back side of each joint. Even old dogs like me can learn a new trick once and awhile, and this struck me as a brilliant way of NOT being forced to wait for glue to set during the assembly process of frame and panel doors. My last project had 82 frame and panel doors and finished panels, and even gluing up two at a time in one set of clamps, I ran out of clamps pretty quick and then had to wait at least an hour prior to the assembly of more. My current project has 56 framed panels in 3/4" thick Western Red Cedar, Pine and Iroko so I decided to try a new way of assembly rather than play the waiting game. My PC pinner was purchased for just this purpose and I'm happy to report that this technique works like a charm and the glue joints remain tight while the glue sets AND the pin holes are truly "pin holes". On my current project the back-side of the panels is not visible so therefore I don't need to fill these holes, but on "good two side" projects these holes will not be an issue to fill.

The longer the panel sits in clamps the better chance the glue has to "grab". To facilitate this I used two sets of clamps. I glued and assembled one panel in the first set of clamps, fired 5/8" pins into the joints and let that sit while I assembled a second panel in the second set of clamps. The clamps pull the joint together and the 5/8" long pins perfectly "pin" the tenon in the joint and hold the frame together once released from the clamps. Once the third panel was assembled I went back and removed the first panel from the clamps and set it aside to allow the glue to completely set, by the time I got back to the first panel the glue had just enough time to grab and the joint didn't budge. Just remember that they are 23 gauge pins and are there only to hold things together until the glue does it's job, so you can't be reefing on the joints until the glue has been completely set. In this alternating method I assembled all 56 panels in less than a day, totally cool! I estimated it would have taken the better part of a week to have done the same in the "traditional" way with only clamps.

The PC pinner performed flawlessly even without "PC brand" pins and regardless of the material (Western Red Cedar is like hard butter and Iroko is just as hard and stringy as Elm) the pins were set perfectly each and every time at 100 psi. For everyone who has used nail guns, you do have a tendency to push down prior to firing a nail to push back the safety arm. This pinner has a trigger safety on it that you pull back with your finger, so there is no requirement to push down, just set the nose on the surface and pull the trigger. There is a bit of bounce back but I found that even on Western Red Cedar I could avoid a large "nose dint" by using care in how I held the gun against the surface of the material. I can see how this gun would be very easy to jamb as the pins have no head. The pins have an arrow on them indicating which way they get inserted in the gun for good reason. The ram is tiny and must be machined to very tight tolerances (which contributes greatly to the high cost of such a small and specialized tool), I would imagine that if the ram gets distorted or damaged in any way this gun will be problematic from there ever-after. So handle and use this tool with care, if ever there was a nail gun to put the prescribed drop of oil in prior to use this is it. I'm sure I will find a million other uses for this gun over time, but for now I'm very pleased that it worked like a charm for the purpose I bought if for. You've got to love it when a new tool pays for itself on the first job!

One other piece of advice, this is NOT the gun for you if you are looking for a "nail gun". This is a "pinner" and should ONLY be used for that purpose. It can fire pins between 1/2" and 1" in length ONLY, most nail guns can fire nails from 3/4" to 2 1/2" in length. For general nailing buy a gun that fires 18 or 15 gauge nails, they are relatively cheap, much more durable and the nails are cheaper. Made in Taiwan yes, but made to very high standards so I have nothing disparaging to say on that front. Highly recommended.

Good gun, but you know the downside
I like this gun; it does everything claimed of it. It is very difficult to spot the pin holes, and they probably don't need filling. But it is possible to spot the hole if you know where to look for it. I wonder if it would be possible, though, to paint the head ends of the pins, prior to use, with an enamel that matched the workpiece and that would stand up to the plunger. I haven't tried this but it would be really cool if it worked.

One thing I have tried, though, that worked fine, is to find a tiny little knot that is near where I want to drive the pin and put it right at the center of it. The nose is so tiny that it's possible to locate the pin so accurately that you can put it smack in the center of these tiny little knots. The pin is much less noticeable there because people expect to see a variation of color at that point.

It is true, though, that the nose mars the work if the work is soft, but one way to address that problem is to put a small piece of masking tape on the work over the area. Use a little extra pressure so the pin won't be driven proud of the work. After the pin is driving, remove the tape. Voila-no marring.

The only real downside is the length of the pins-or lack thereof. You can't use it for really thick door or window trim, although I do, toward the thin side. There is one trick for this that I haven't tried but I think would work (keyhole slots with screws on the thick side; slide it in place, then secure with pins) but it's very labor intensive. I think PC should come with an 1.5 inch gun, and, when they do, give us full retail for our old guns in trade for it. (Right!)

Wish I had this a few years ago -- GREAT Performer !!!
I bought this after reading the reviews from everyone else. There is always trepidation when you hear pitfalls, especially when you consider the money and sweat-equity that goes into projects. Bottom line: I have encountered absolutely no problems to date. No "nose dents", no jamming, and the pin hole is so small it can be covered up with a wood-filler stick -- if it is needed at all. I've done so many projects the hard way in the past, that I'm kicking myself for not having this over the past few years. I also followed the PC instructions and put in just a couple of drops of oil, and I did not get the oil marks that some reviews mentioned. Additionally, I even used it in a tricky situation where I had to drive pins at an angle joining 2 pieces perpendicularly -- and it was flawless. I've used it on maple, oak and pine. I've run all three wood types (and all using 1" pins) at 80 PSI, and the depth has been perfect. By the way, the automatic adjustment to pin length is worth the price itself just in time (and forgetfulness) savings. I recommend this Pin Nailer highly.

For those who want to take fine to the next level
At first I was hesitant to buy the PC PIN100. The reviews were the core of my concern. Does it leave a dent in the work? Will it quickly malfunction? Is the pin visible? Is it a quality tool, or a piece of junk?
I took it out of the carrying case, and the clear plastic wrap, and immediately put 5 drops of the oil that comes in the kit, in the air nozzle. I wanted to ward off any jamming problems.
Upon loading the nails, I noticed that there were multiple arrows printed on the side of the nail strip. That way you would load them in the right direction. If you ignored the arrows, and loaded them upside down, which is possible considering the small size of the pins, the sharp, fine, thin tip would be up, to do battle with the hammer coming down. Certainly, it would veer off to one side, thereby freezing the hammer and pin. In addition that kind of action could score the shaft, and that would lead to other possible misfires. People reporting problems with jams could have done just that.
The top of the pin has a blunt-flat end on it, and the business end is sharp. Since they are so tiny, if you don't notice the arrows on the side, it is easy to load them upside down.
These pins are not serrated, or ring shanked, but rather smooth on the sides. That way they don't receive resistance on the way down. Important considering their fine size.
I was able to take the 3/4" pins, that come with the kit, and drive several into a 3/4" piece of oak, without any problems whatsoever. I first tested it out on a piece of scrap pine. Since I loaded the nailer with oil, it came out of the nose quite readily, which made a slight black mark where the pin went into the wood. Since the pine is very light, it showed. It was worth it, I wanted to break it in properly. After about 20 pins the oil cleared, I then went onto the oak, and it left a pin without any blemish. All in all with all of my testing, the pin nailer never misfired, or even hinted, at a misfire even once. I put it to the test with firing nails, as fast as I could squeeze the trigger, and never a problem or a glitch. You can fire a lot of nails very quickly with this tool.

It doesn't have the safety nose that requires plunging like the rest of the Porter Cable finish nailer line. That way you can get into finely cramped quarters, and get the pin in at your desired angle. What PC did, was put two levers on the handle, one is a safety release, and the other one is the firing trigger. It is well engineered that way, and is easy and intuitive to use.

How about the pin, does it show? On the first test pieces, with 5 drops of break in oil, it showed on the pine. After blowing it out with 20 pins, the oil deposits stopped, and all you saw was the pin hole. Does the pin hole become invisible by wiping water on the wood? I am getting critical here, but yes it does show. I was dreaming of the wood swelling, and making the pin hole completely invisible. That didn't happen in the pine and oak I tested it in. BUT the pin hole is so small, that all but the most critical customers will object to it. I have to admit that it is so tiny, that it couldn't be any smaller without disappearing altogether. Miniscule is the appropriate word here. It makes an 18 gauge finish nail look like a crater in comparison. For light colored wood it is barely visible, and for medium to dark woods it will disappear altogether. So if you are looking to attach really fine work, like 1/4" quarter round mldgs, this is just what the doctor ordered.

I tried to be critical of the impression if any the head would leave in the work. When working with oak, even at the highest pressures, it did not leave a mark. Pine on the other hand, required a gentle touch. If you pressed down on the head while firing, it left a tiny impression. If you laid the head gently onto the surface, and fired, it left no impression whatsoever. Considering that pine is so soft, that you can leave an impression in it with your finger nail, I laid to rest any concerns about dimples in the wood.

The air pressure range prescribed by PC is 60 to 100 PSI. It is advisable to stay within that range, whereas excessive pressures can cause problems. I imagine the firing apparatus is designed to ideally work within those ranges, and subjecting it to excessive pressure is reason for concern. I tweaked my regulator on the wall to 105 pounds, which would give me 100 or less at the gun, and it fired well without any difference in the head impression on the work.

So what does all of this mean? Simply put, I love this tool. It does the job beautifully, appears to do so without any suggestion of malfunctioning. I have the Porter Cable 16 gauge, and the 18 gauge both in the BN 125A and the 200A, and this makes my fourth PC finish level nailer, and not one of them has given me any problems. (They can misfire if you run them dry. I guess that is why PC always includes a squeeze bottle of oil with every nailer.)

This is a keeper. I bought the other size pin nails as well. They come in 1/2", 5/8", 3/4", and 1 inch. It comes with the 3/4", so I picked up the other sizes.
I am looking forward to using the PC PIN100 in doing the fine work. You can spend a lot of time, and get a large project to really look fine, but the small details can make the difference of looking like artwork, or a signature of a less skilled practitioner. This tool will make you an artist, on the detail work. Highly recommended.

Not Up To Par
The idea of the micro pinner is to leave a virtually invisible hole. The hole the pin leaves is small but the dent the nose leaves is terrible. The bounce from the recoil and the sharp nose needs a redesign. I've used other 23 gauge pinners and PC has a long way to go to be considered even acceptable. I guess you get what you pay for. ... Read more

Amazon.com Review

The only bad thing we can think of to say about this hard-working nailer is that you'll be hard at work too, instead of stopping to reload every few minutes. The coil holds up to 300 nails, depending on size, and loads in a jiffy. There are lots of good things to say. It's lightweight, well-balanced, ruggedly made, comfortable in hand because of the rubber grip, and has a nice toothy toenailing head to prevent slips. A clever thing Bostitch did is allow the user to shoot the exhaust in any direction. Its tidy design lets you get in where stick nailers dare not go. Another thing we like is that it's not as pricey as others in its class, and frankly, we think it's just as good if not better. --Kris Jensen-Van Heste ... Read more

Features

• 880 in./lbs. of driving power
• Aluminum housing for durability
• Coil magazine offers plenty of capacity
• Adjustable exhaust deflector

Reviews (11)

This one will bring you home
I've used this nailer on several framing projects and have not been disapointed. It's compact design allows easy access to most tight places. Coil load averages about 300 nails so I spend more time shooting than loading. Loading is easy and rarely have had a jam. It's a little heavier due to the coil load but the advantages out weigh the weight. Can be set up for contact nailing which speeds things along. Nailer has crowned head that can grab wood for toe nailing. At 100 psi this nailer drives the nails with about 1/8" countersink. You can find coils at most hardware retailers. Nails are reasonable priced. Great product. Reliable and durable.

This is a great nail gun
Pros:
+ I've never had a jam with this gun.
+ The coil feed is great, you almost never have to load and you don't have to carry around extra nails like you do with a stick feed.
+ The weight isn't a problem at all, I don't even notice it with a full coil of nails. It doesn't seem any heavier than my PC Finish Nailer.

Note:
When I first got this gun I had a lot of double and triple shots but I solved that when I replaced the trigger with the much safer and easier to use sequential trigger -- included and easy to install. I highly recommend replacing the trigger... don't know why it comes with the bump trigger installed by default.

A Review for the Framing Nailer Novice
[Summary: Some effort to get started, but this nailer works well.]

Let's start with what you're not going to get:
- no 1/4" NPT air plug (required)
- no Teflon tape for the plug (required)
- no lubricating oil (required)
- no nails (required)
- no air filter (recommended)
- no case or bag (nice to have)
- no depth of drive adjustment (nice to have)

With this, my first framing nailer, I scratched my head a few times getting the tool ready to use. It wasn't immediately obvious where the air hose connected; there's a recessed red plastic cap at the end of the handle, and an arrow pointing to it labeled "OIL". Pry this cap out with your fingernails, buy a 1/4" male NPT plug (to fit your air hose connector) and some Teflon tape, and screw the plug into the end of the nailer.

The N80CB comes equipped with a black contact trip trigger. A contact trigger will fire every time the safety shoe around the business end of the tool is depressed as long as the trigger is down. The loaded nailer is over 10 pounds so its weight tends to drop it down onto the nailing surface right after the recoil bumps it up -- frequently leading to two or three nails driven. I decided I'd prefer the silver-gray sequential trip trigger, included in a plastic bag. You need a hammer and the included punch to drive out the trigger pivot pin, and to drive the pin back when you install the other trigger. The trigger moves back with no pressure when installed; you'll feel very slight trigger resistance, however, when the safety shoe is depressed.

The nail loading procedure is made needlessly mysterious by the tiny drawings (.8 square inches each) illustrating the first four steps of the operation. If a normal picture is worth a thousand words, these are worth maybe 42. So I'll add a few more to help.

Position the tool with the firing end at the lower left, with the "!WARNING:" label on the cyclindrical nail can oriented for reading. The loading latch is midway between this label and the business (firing) axis of the tool. There's a flat fingertip-sized metal shelf at the top of the latch. Press this down (that is, in the direction the nails fire) and swing the loading door open toward you and to the left.

Grab the plastic part that has the "!WARNING:" label, and swing the top cover of the nail can open toward you and to the right.

There's a buckle clamp holding the bottom of the nail can in place. Using your right hand reach below the hinge of the top cover and follow the curve of the lower can around toward its far side. Your index finger will be on the buckle latch lever. Pull the lever toward you until the latch springs open, then move the near part of the buckle clamp off the ridge at the right side of the lower can. Get a couple of fingers behind this clamping ridge and pull toward you. The bottom section of the can will pop out of the grooves it's nested into on the fixed side of the can.

Reinsert the bottom section of the can so that the far side rectangular cutout ("window") underlines the correct nail length embossed in the black plastic of the fixed side of the can. Mark this position some way other than by using the measurement cutout (I used a felt-tip pen until I got used to the sizes) as you won't be able to see the markings when the can is full of nails. Remove the can again and fill it with nails. With the B & C Eagle nails at 3-1/4" I had to unwind the full 200 nail coil and rewind it to fit smoothly around the spindle. (If you have to re-coil your nails make sure the 15 degree slant puts the point forward of the head as the nail coil exits the can.) Reinsert the can at the appropriate position and reattach the buckle clamp.

Pull enough of the coil from the can to get the lead nail into the business axis of the gun, and the nail immediately behind it between the teeth of the feed pawl. Make sure the nail heads are all in the feed groove provided for them. Swing the top cover of the nail can closed from the right, and the loading door closed from the left. Push firmly until the door locks into place.

With your new 1/4" NPT plug in place on the nailer, attach it to your air hose's quick connector. Now you're ready to get to work!

How does the N80CB work? Very well! After using my gentle finish nailer I admit I was surprised to see sparks fly each time one of the heavy framing nails was hammered home. My only difficulty: finding a local source of nails in Silicon Valley. Luckily the B & C Eagle nails available from Amazon worked like a champ (after recoiling). No jams; no problems at all.

The N80CB does not come with a depth of drive adjustment. There's a fairly expensive add-on unit you can buy. You can also get an approximation of drive depth adjustment by fiddling with the air pressure within the 70-100 PSI range. Based on only framing with 2-1/2" and 3-1/4" nails, you should set the pressure based on the nail size (100 PSI for the bigger nails) and leave it alone.

Finally, I found the packaging pretty meager. This is a bulky, heavy tool, and the packaging is just a box containing a cardboard sheet with cutouts designed to cradle the nailer. My unit ended up ripping the cardboard cutout sheet as its weight was thrown about by the UPS shippers. Luckily the tool itself was rugged enough to survive.

Great Coil Framing Nailer!
I recently purchased this Bostitch coil framing nailer. It is the best nailer i have ever used. It has very little recoil, but yet a great amount of power. Some people are sceptical on buying the coil nailers because of weight issues and jamming issues, but i have had NO jams and the weight is about the same as a loaded stick nailer, even when the coil nailer has a full coil of nails. I have a Bostitch stick framing nailer also, which i am very pleased with as well. I also own an assortment of various types of finish nailers also made by Bostitch. I am very pleased with all of them. For many reasons especially the ease of using Bostitch fastners because every store I visit has bostitch nails. Overall i am extremely pleased with this coil framing nailer, and any Bostitch product for that matter. I would strongly recomend it to anyone looking for a good nailer.

More nailing, less reloading
I bought this nailer to speed the building of a 12x16 shed by myself. It paid for itself on that project alone and worth every cent.

Pros:
1. More nailing, less reloading(like I said).
2. Great size for tight spaces.
3. Great balance even fully loaded.
4. Plently of power.
5. TOUGH, dropped on a six foot ladder, picked it up and got back to work without pause.

Cons:
1. Can only toenail from left side in REALLY tight spaces due to the feed mechanism on right side(not that big an issue).
2. Not the best gun for rapid nail switchs, so if you have to switch often between 12D and 8D ring for small jobs it can be a pain. ... Read more

Features

• 25ft hi-flex hose stays flexible - will not kink
• A powerful, portable, professional 3-stage system
• Fuji XT model non-bleed spraygun
• Stainless steel fluid components
• Insulated stay-cool handle

Reviews (1)

So happy I now wish I had bought Fuji's top of the line
This HVLP is like my new best friend. This morning I sprayed 1/2 gallon of paint onto 25 kitchen cabinet doors (one side), in 2 hours including clean up. The finish is impeccable.

My only regret is that I didn't spend the extra $200 and buy the four turbine unit. A friend of mine recommended Fuji because he's been painting professionally with his for the last 13 years--no problems. His is the three turbine model, so I figured I didn't need anything more.

Only one complication: thinning. In order to shoot latex (I use Benjamin Moore Iron Clad Latex Enamel) you have to thin it. I have not been able to eliminate orange-peel with anything less than 20% thinning. And I'm not sure if this jeopardizes the integrity of the paint.

But otherwise, this sprayer will save you so much time it is ridiculous. Think what you can paint--cabinets, furniture, base board, molding, the cat.

The unit is quiet, and seems to be quality. It uses standardized turbines. ... Read more

Features

• Dust, dirt, and water resistant - 1 year limited warranty
• Five self-leveling orthogonal beams: level, plumb, and square
• Electronic self-leveling with flashing out-of-level indicator
• Visible and accurate to 1/4" @ 100'
• Powered by four AA batteries, auto-shut off with low battery indicator

Reviews (10)

Laser self-leveling RT-7610-5
Price is very reasonable, after using this tool a few times it is very easy to use, I checked the plumb lines with a plumb bob to insure accuracy, and it was dead center at 15 feet high. the level is also very accurate--I use it to set cabinets, and for laying out.
Just as important, the tool makers customer service is impressive, and they are very helpful with any questions or support.
I think because of that I should have rated this tools with 5 stars.

Laser problems
I have a similar problem as two other users. I used the system several times immediately after purchase and it worked fine. Then I didn't use it for over 8 months. It was stored in the original container and inside the house. I recently tried to use it again and now the servos work, but there is no laser. I've got an email into the company, but we'll see...

Make it work.....
I got my 7610-5 as a factory rebuild, so I am not out as much as some of you. When I first got home, I thought it was broken, but after 20 mins or so, it finally leveled itself. I was able to use it on a job 1 time, but after storing it (in an air conditioned room) for a couple of months, it never worked again. Customer svc will not answer emails, and a call to the factory says they will charge $85 to fix it no matter what is wrong, maybe good, maybe bad. I really wish that I had a laser that I could rely on, but this is not it. As a remodler, my tools must work when I get to the jobsite, always. I am very disapointed, especially now that porter cable has started selling them. Every other P.C. tool that I have is excellent, this will bring down the quality of their product line.

laserless level
I have had this level one and half years, using it about ten times. It worked well and saved me alot of time. My one very minor complaint would have been its long search times to find level. (Longer than others I have used.) Now I have a major complaint...after storing it in the recommended manner for five months, it will not produce a beam...it justs searches for level. The little motor hums, the little gimble indexes and I get nothing. It was working fine, no abuse, no accidents...can't recommend it now, can I?

Not perfect, but darn useful
purchased this after going through much pain trying to locate several downlights in a large living room. That job alone paid for the puchase. Since then I've used it to lay out landscapes, fences, and cabinets. The self-leveling feature is perfect for amatures like myself.

Some minor qualms, it's well built, but not bullet-proof (why did they move to servos for the level?!!?), the laser seems to shoot too large of a dot, and it's hard to see outside (even with the aids supplied). As others have noted, It's also very sensitive to being bumped, or serious vibrations; This has never been a problem for me, I'm not a contractor, but I can see it being a pain on a busy job site.

Overall: highly recommended ... Read more

Features

• Extruded aluminum fence
• Includes top, fence, pre-drilled router plate, and cabinet
• Fully adjustable miter track with 3/4-inch miter gauge t-slot and accessory t-slot
• 22-by-16-inch laminated work surface
• Accepts most routers

Reviews (35)

Good for the price, but...
This is a good router table, for the price. That being said, I did have some problems. That's why I only gave it 4 stars. Unlike one of the previous reviewers who said he assembled it in 45 minutes... it took me 3 hours. This included a trip to the hardware store, because the hardware package provided was incomplete. No screws were provided to attach the subfences. (I used 1/4" x 1 1/2" carriage bolts for this and that seems to work adequately.) Also, I had to cut a couple of the insert bracket screws to allow the door to close, because the shorter ones specified were missing.
My other gripe is that I also purchased the pricey auxillary switch... it's a good switch, but didn't install as I had anticipated. I had intended to mount it on the bottom miter track slot, as per instructions. According to the specs for the switch, 'all new Bench Dog router tables come equipped with this slot'. However, the new RT150 ProTop I just purchased did not come equipped with this slot. That was a minor disappointment, and also increased the assembly time while I figured out another acceptable way of mounting the switch, as I definitely did not want to mount it on the fence.
The assembly instructions provided are very good and easy to follow. And they thoughtfully provide a nice assortment of screws for mounting most brands of routers to the insert plate.
I do recommend purchasing this router table. It's much better than any other I've seen in this price range.

They should double-check the hardware packages.

Quality well built table
This is my first router table and I don't think I'll ever have to buy another one. This thing is really nice. I am very impressed. I shopped around and looked at the Porter Cable (which got so-so reviews) and Craftsman (seem cheezy) but didn't want to spend an arm an a leg on some of the larger tables. Yet I still wanted quality. This has it. At a very reasonable ptice too!
It's heavy enough to keep it from sliding around, but has a lip on the bottom to clamp it to the work surface if you need to. It also has a lip on the table top for clamping feather boards etc.
The fence is solid, straight, and easily adjustable. It can even be shimmed(shims included) to be used as a joiner. Mine came with an upgrade from the acrylic plate to the phenolic plate. Nice suprise. It comes with a drilling template for mounting many popular routers to the blank plate. The instructions for assembly are straight-foward and easy to follow. It probably took me a half hour to 45 minutes to assemble taking my time.
The only drawback I have found is that you need to open the door to get to the power switch on the router. It would be nice if it had a switch built in to control the router and vacume, but then I guess it would cost more. I'll just add my own I guess. Benchdog does sell the switch if your intrested.
Because of that it really should get 4.5 stars.

WOW - A GREAT TOOL FOR BEGINNER OR PRO!
I received the Bench Dog Router Table last week from Tyler Tools (they shipped the product the next business day and I received it two days later! - instead of waiting for 1-2 weeks for shipment from Amazon and at the same price). It took two hours to assemble and route my first piece of wood. After a few adjustments I was doing perfect dovetails, v-cuts, chamfers, dados, etc. Not bad for someone who has never used a router before! I put the Bench Dog table on my workmate bench. It is heavy (44 pounds without the router) and is very stable during operations. Of course, I clamped the table to the bench for safety. The fence is easy to adjust and one side can be offset for joinery cuts. The tabletop had predrilled holes for all types of routers - I used the Dewalt 616 router.

If you are looking for a router table, look no further!

Also on the waiting list.
Ordered this item on June 19th. Just got an update that the expected arrival date is July 28-Aug 3. Don't buy it here if you expect in in 1-2 weeks.

Wonderful Smaller Router Table
Just recieved and very pleased. Finish is perfect. Easy to put together. Tested it using my Porter Cable router on some walnut scrap - quiet, no vibration, great dust collection. Had a Rockler portable table that scared me every time used it because it was not stable - tossed it in the trash today. ... Read more

Amazon.com Review

This was one great saw even before the Delta designers took it back to the drawing board. But the improvements they made, along with Delta's trademark quality, make this saw one of the kings in the radial arm world. The new design will have you cutting up to 16-inch widths of 2-inch stock at 90 degrees. Miter cuts have greater capacity now too, to 10-1/2 inches at 45 degrees left and 11 inches at 45 degrees right, all powered by a 1-1/2-horsepower motor. Among the nicer changes are the new depth-of-cut control handle and locking levers, which Delta positioned above the table for easy access. Whenever you buy a radial arm saw, you're going to have to spend some time setting it up and calibrating it, but this one seems to hold its adjustments better than most, and the cast-iron track, column, and column support offer rigidity and continued accuracy. As you've come to expect with better saws, an automatic brake will stop the blade in seconds. The table's a good 27 by 44 inches, providing plenty of stock support. --Kris Jensen-Van Heste ... Read more

Features

• Two-year limited warranty on machines, parts, and accessories
• Powerful 1-1/2 HP capacitor start, capacitor run motor
• Increased miter cuting capacities in nominal 2-inch thick stock: 10-1/2 at 45 degrees left and 11 inches at 45 degrees to the right
• New depth of cut control handleand locking levers are positioned above the table for easy access
• Cast iron track, column and column support for rigidity and continued accuracy

Reviews (6)

Never use it - wish I hadn't bought it!
I bought this radial arm saw to use as a dedicated saw for dados. The pressboard table warps with every change of the weather, requiring frequently releveling. I generally just change blades and use the table saw instead. I wouldn't buy it again.

rating the radial
I am a female, and thought a woman's point of view helpful. I had considered ordering a more expensive radial, but the shipping was out of sight, so I thought long and hard about this one. I am glad I went this route. The saw was easy for me to handle, and assemble. The directions were clear and precise (once I could figure them out) and most worked well for accuracy aligning. I was able to get it aligned without any problems. The table is hard to level, and I find the arm control lever at the back hard to reach to lower or raise the saw. The guard is hard to manuever and is rigid. The table was not nearly high enough so I have it on sitting on boards (works great). I wish there was more cover with the guard, but it is okay for now. The saw is quiet and seems efficient. I cut a little higher fence for thicker boards. Mine will only be used for dadoes, and I think I am going to be glad I went with this particular model. I have been happy with Delta tools in the past. The price is reasonable, and shipping and delivery were great. Didn't take long to get it put together. It will get a lot of use with my projects.

Some Good - Some not so good
The market for Radial saws is very limited in the $500.- $800. price bracket. I basicly had two choices a Delta or Ridgid. I purchased the Delta because it had a cast iron arm instead of stamped welded steel. The saw went together easily with the exception of leveling the table this took 3 attemps to get it right. The instructions for adjusting the saw were very clear and all the adjusting screws & bolts had a solid quality feel. I feel that this saw will hold its settings.The blade guard binds when it is rotated and must be jiggled to move it.( a little sanding may smooth things out.) The controls for adjusting the height and all other adjustments work very smoothly. The blade & motor unit was a little hard to slide on the arm and had to be adjusted. ( still not as free & smooth as the Ridgid but not a problem ) My first cut was right on the money
a solid 90 Deg. A nice feature is a switch on the motor to change from 115 V to 220V. I have not used the saw much but the more I use it and become familiar with it the more confident I become that I made the right choice. Cross cutting wide lumber is what ths saw is all about & that it does well. If the blade guard moved smoothly I would have given this saw five stars.

the only choice on the market for rabbets and dados
I debated for a long time on whether to get this or one of the compound sliding miter saws. I needed something to do rabbet and dado cuts on long pieces of lumber, for making shelves and other furniture, and this was the only real choice on the market. The larger radial arm saws are way too expensive, and from what I read, the miter saws are only good for through cuts, not measured depth cuts.

A radial arm saw is also the only saw to buy if you're cutting oddly shaped items or doing really difficult cuts. It has adjustments on every axis, which makes it very versatile. I've seen people put a chuck on one of these and use it as boring machine and a router for odd shapes. Radial arm saws are almost completely off the market now, except for high end units, so this is the about average consumer's only choice for these kind of cuts.

This came very well packaged, and was easy enough for one person to set up. I had a little trouble leveling the table, and it seemes kind of cheezy the way it is done, but I finally got it right.

This saw generally has enough power, if you don't get in a bind with warped lumber, when it will stall out. This is probablly good, rather than a higher powered saw, which might throw the piece back at you.

My main complaint with this saw is the difficulty of adjustments, especially the height adjustment. Strangely enough, it is easier to raise the blade than to lower it. It goes up easy enough, but trying to lower it back down is very difficult, like it is adjusted too tight. I actually lifted the saw off the floor trying to turn the height lever to lower the blade. Since you have to raise it and lower it everytime you change miter or angle of cut, this can be quite a hassel.

There seems to be only a positive stop at 90 degrees, which I always double check, and the attached gagues aren't that accurate, so you've got to use a sliding protracter for any miter or angle cuts.

The floating lower blade guard gets stuck sometimes, and I ended fixing it in place in its highest position. At least the whole blade guard isn't totally useless like what comes on table saws.

Overall, a pretty good saw, but for the price I'd expect it to have better guages and some positive stops, plus be easier to adjust. Sometimes I end up cutting a piece on the table saw because this is such a hassel to adjust. I've used this saw for furniture, and to rebuild my deck (a lot of wood hauling). For building projects, I may end up getting a 12" sliding compound miter saw yet. This is a good, but not great saw. A better one would cost twice as much.

Rock solid
I had a tough time deciding on whether to get the Delta 10" vs the 12". Finally deciding on the 10", I received it in the mail. It came well packaged and ready to go. The piece itself is really sturdy and cuts perfectly. ... Read more

Features

• Accu-Fence and rail system
• Heavy single piece cast-iron trunion for minimal vibration
• Excalibur sliding table for complete control cutting long stock and sheet goods
• Left tilt blade reduces binding and tear out
• Laminated extension table

Reviews (3)

Great Investment
This saw replaced a Delta 10" Cabnit Saw - which was a very good saw.

The Powermatic 5HP is one big saw. It will cut anything wood without burning. No matter how slow or fast I feed wood into it the powerful 5HP saw there are no problems. Plywood in sheets can be feed with ease. The cuts are straight the first time and require no secondary working. I have not had one poor plywood cut on this machine. This is the best ripping saw I have ever used. Again the cuts are true and I have not wasted any wood since the purchase of this unit. Wonderful work products can be produced with ease.

The sliding table was set up after viewing a video tape. Using the tips in the video I set up the sliding table - leveled and set it even with the blade in 3 hours. A recent review I read on sliding tables said it took six hours - anyone could do it alone in three following the video. If you have someone to help you - 2 to 2.5 hours. This is not a mobil unit - save your money - do not buy a mobil base. The sliding table must stay stationary to stay properly set.

The rail and fence fit the saw table and sliding table without the need for any cutting. The fence once aligned matains square. It adjusts with little effort. Repeat cuts are exact duplicates of one another. This is as good of fence as I have used and recommend it highly. There is no need of an upgrade here.

With the cast iron extention to the right of the blade and the wood extention table you have an unbeatable work service. Your work is fully supported. You can control cuts with little effort. You will be able to work plywood sheets all day long with this saw, it's sliding table to the left, and the 50 inch extention to the right.

The fit and finish are excellent. Everything went together with ease. The instructions were clear. I put on a Forrest blade and it was in perfect alignment without the need of adjustment - none! I could not believe that it was set right out of the box. The table was level and ground properly - my straight edge was dead flat over every surface of the table. The extension cast iron wing may be a bit off to the left outside but not that it effects cuts or quality of work. It is so close I just can not tell for sure.

This saw will not make better end results BUT it will allow you to work with confidence, building your skills. It is a high compacity workhorse. It will be the last cabnit saw I will buy.

Magnificent saw - worth every penny
I am happy with it every time I use it. It performs the way a table/cabinet saw should - it cuts everything perfectly, every time. It makes glue ready joints every time and I don't even use a fancy forrest blade. I use a decent 60 tooth Freud and I'm happy. It is amazing. The excalibure table is useful, though massive. It isn't the answer to all problems, but with some effort, you can make accurate & precise cuts on full sheets of plywood. I recommend an outfeed table in addition to all this saw has. It makes the sliding table more stable, and improves cuts. The 5 HP motor is great. It doesn't slow down under a load - ever, no matter what. You can rip through solid maple like it was balsa wood. The much touted cast iron top and trunion deserve the praise they receive. This saw is as solid as a tank. You could easily use it for 50 years and still be happy with the cuts!

Buy it and enjoy!

Big And Powerful
This is one big heavy saw. It took me three to four hours to set it up after watching the video on the sliding table, the table saw is machined perfect and is very powerful, the five horsepower motor will run though any hardwood you can cut. I have installed a Forrest Blade on it. With the sliding table I can cross cut a full sheet of plywood by myself.I build a lot of cabinets and I need a saw that will stay where you put it, this one will not move with a sheet of 3/4" plywood on it. The rip fence is strong and accurate. You want be disappointed with this saw, it is by far this best table saw on the market today. ... Read more

Amazon.com Review

The heart of any table saw is the fence, and DeWalt's smooth-sliding, unique double-cam action fence locks down tight and always travels parallel to the blade. The fence face shifts forward, too, giving you the option--if a cut requires it--of extra fence area in front of the blade. The fence can also drop flush to the table for ripping laminates.

In fact, this saw is riddled with great, user-friendly features. There's an oversize, left-side on/off switch that lets you bump the saw off with your knee if you run into trouble while making a cut. It's exactly this sort of attention to detail that wins a lot of people over to DeWalt products. The blade-elevation crank is also set lower on this saw than most, so there's plenty of hand clearance for making blade height adjustments. Again, this might seem like a minor touch until you think about how frustrating it is to bang your knuckles on a table bottom every time you want to change the blade height. This table's sturdy, metal bevel scale is a nice touch, too; it's easy to read and much burlier than the mere stickers found on a lot of other saws. The saw's inboard 1-3/4-horsepower induction motor is quiet, cuts down on vibration, and makes this saw considerably more space-efficient than outboard motor saws, a feature you'll appreciate if you work in a small shop or have to take your saw through doorways. And at 254 pounds, this saw's got plenty of heft, a big cast-iron trunnion, and a sturdy steel base. There's also an integrated dust port if you want to hook the saw up to a dust collector. --Jon Groebner ... Read more

Features

• 1-3/4-horsepower induction motor offers more power
• Double cam-action fence for reliable accuracy
• Integrated dust collection system
• Easy access shut-off switch

Reviews (2)

DW746X TABLE SAW
Just recieved this saw from Amazon. Merchandise was delivered on time and in perfect condition even with the free shipping. Trucking company called 4 days in advance to schedule a time and confirmed the morning of the delivery and set it in my garage as requested.

Assembly was strait forward and not difficult, all required hardware was complete. Assembly and setup time with the mobile base (which is cool makes mobility a snap be sure to get it this saw is heavy) was about 3 hours without help. The table extentions that come with the saw are cheap but install easily enough, I am going to buy the cast iron ones. The fence was a bit tricky to square to the table first and then the blade. I skipped the table part and squared to the blade. The trick is to leave the bolts somewhat tight and proceed to tighten with the bolt closest to you first. The blade tilt and indicator settings for the blade bevel were right on from the factory and the hand wheels operate smoothly. Be sure to check the factory installed fasteners some of mine were loose.

After cleaning the grease from the saw and all parts I waxed the table and fence. Suprisingly the saw came with a Dewalt 50 tooth laser cut blade which is what I was to purchase aftermarket. I only did some test cuts and I will update this review once I use the saw.(thats why 4 stars)

I have been woodworking for over 6 years and had a DW744 saw and purchased this as an upgrade. I own a Dewalt planer, 12" compound miter and various smaller Dewalt tools and have never been dissapointed with thier products, thus the purchase of this saw.

Setup of DeWalt's DW746 Table Saw Can Be Frustrating
I have just spent about 15 hours setting up the DeWalt DW746 table saw, and I still can't use it. The On-Off Switch is defective; the motor starts up regardless of which position the switch is in--not exactly safe. I called DeWalt's help line but received a recorded message that help is available only 8-5 M-F, so I'll have to wait out the weekend. The saw has been set up in my basement workshop for 4 days and so far I've had to clean up about 1/4 cup of oil which has leaked from the motor. I don't know if this means the motor is defective; hopefully the DeWalt help line will clarify what is going on.
I took another owner's advice and bought the two heavy duty cast iron extension tables. One of the tables arrived with dings along the edge which mates with the main table; this edge also seems to be slightly bowed, being high in the middle and low at the edges.
Adjusting the saw blade to 0 and 90 degree bevel angles is straightforward with easily accessible adjustment screws located conveniently in the miter slots. However, adjusting the fence is something else. To square the fence to the table top, you must loosen three torx (T50) screws and make the adjustment. When finished, you are instructed to tighten the three torx screws. In the next setup step, setting the fence parallel to the blade, you are instructed to loosen two of the screws (which you just tightened) and to loosen the third screw just enough to allow setting the fence parallel. Unless you are very lucky, you are going to have to repeat this process several times in order to get everything square and parallel, because every time you get one adjustment right, it seems to throw off the other.
I agree with other reviewers that the supplied stamped left & right support tables are junk. Spend the extra money and get the heavy duty cast iron side tables. The supplied miter gauge is also a piece of junk, as are the arbor wrenches for changing blades.
Prepare to lay out even more money for a good combination or crosscut saw blade, because the one supplied with this saw is a ripping blade suitable only for "occasional cross cuts."
If you get the mobile base, assemble and install it as one of the first steps: don't wait until last, because this saw is awfully heavy to lift, especially with the heavy duty extension table attached.
All in all, I have high hopes for this saw--the main table seems sturdy enough, and the supplied motor is a high quality two capacitor induction type which should give years of faithful service. The defective On-Off switch is a big disappointment but I hope DeWalt's help epresentative will solve this to mutual satisfaction. ... Read more

Features

• Water resistant non submersible
• Provides level reference and point-to-point plumb
• Working range at 100 feet
• Accurate to less than 1/4 in. at 100 ft.
• Automatic leveling

Reviews (1)

PLS 3 is a great little tool
I have been using one of these little laser plumb/levels for about a month now. It is the first, and often only level I reach for these days. It shoots a bright red dot visible in full daylight, and makes locating plumb and level points a cinch. Great for framing, layout, finish,etc.. It is rugged enough to handle the usual job-site bumps and scratches, and small and light enough to fit in your tool pouch. Long battery life too... The only drawback is that the other guys on the crew constantly want to borrow it! ... Read more

Amazon.com Review

This well-designed planer offers fast stock removal and the smoothest finish--exactly what we expected from Bosch. The powerful 6.5 amp motor runs the versatile two-blade Woodrazor system at 16,500 rpm with a protective shield that covers the section of blade that's not in use. The fence itself deserves applause--bevels are accurate and easy to adjust. We love the chip ejection as well. Too many times, we've tried tools with an exhaust system that might as well not be there, but this one actually moves the removed stock and it's multidirectional! Deep cuts are possible in just one pass without bogging or chatter. There's even a spring-loaded park rest stand that protects blade and workpiece. The saw is a special shape that allows easy start-up in the middle of a workpiece. Accidental starts are a thing of the past because of the lock-off release button. Bosch thought of everything; we're impressed. --Kris Jensen-Van Heste ... Read more

Features

• Depth adjustment of 0 - 3/32? - Makes deep cuts in one pass
• Powerful 6.5 Amp motor - For fast stock removal and a smooth finish, 16,500 RPM
• Chip ejection switch - Directs shavings left or right
• Versatile 2-blade system equipped with Bosch WoodrazorTM micrograin carbide blades
• Bevel guide fence - Ensures consistent planing from 0° to 45° through entire workpiece with a protective shield that covers the section of blade not in use

Reviews (12)

One Heckuva Tool
Bought this planer the other day to do some doors. It was all I expected and more. Very strong motor - never even appeared to bog down. Good balance. Depth control is very easy to use and accurate. I actually own a Dewalt and a Makita. I bought the Bosch for the features (i.e. the fully adjustable fence, the adjustable chip deflector that actually comes with a WORKABLE shop vac adapter - THAT is great!) and the reputation. I have not been disapointed. The Bosch is the best of the three. Until I got the Bosch I was pretty well satisfied with the Makita with the Dewalt pulling up the rear, but the Bosch is the best of the three by far. Strongest motor, Woodrazor carbide blades, shop vac adapter, and that great fence. You will use the fence. It can be set at 90 degrees or any other angle you want - and there is an adjustagble rabbeting stop that basically lets you take it about as deep and wide as you want. By the way, USE a shop vac with this. It will fill up your shop with shavings in a heartbeat - but with a vac hooked up, not a one hit the floor. Overall, this is a super tool at a very reasonable price. Oh yeah, it's also relative quiet. This one's a keeper.

Blowing Chunks
I have owned this tool for about 1 year and I must say the Bosch 1594K planer is a very fine example of engineering, function, design and quality all meeting at the same place and time. If you are one who uses a planer at your occupation, you will really appreciate the handling characteristics of this tool, kind of like a Rolls Royce to a Chauffeur. But like most tools of this caliber it has many other rival brands that also are real fine gems within themselves. I do believe that the one solid advantage this Bosch has over the rest of the competing brands is its ability to spew wood chips either to the right or the left. In fact, this planer is so proficient at wood ejection, that from a distance it looks like your blowing chunks!

They Need To Re-Think The Fence
Overall the unit is fine, but the fence is made so cheap that you cannot set it to 90 deg. without doing some filing on the slot. This is a very poorly engineered fence and is not like Bosch to put something so cheap on their tools.

Outstanding Product
Like a lot of Bosch tools, this is build like a tank. The quality of the construction is first rate. You can't go wrong. Bosch has never let me down.

Great power, great performance
I purchased this tool to square up some finishes on the deck I'm building (I'm picky). The PT lumber is among the most dense I've used - 16d nails are buckling in this stuff!

Once the decking dried, I took this powerhouse to the mismatched edges that cropped up. NO PROBLEM! It was like a hot knife slicing butter! The extras included in the kit make this machine a top value! The depth adjustment is easy and very accurate, and the dust chute's ability to change discharge sides is a very nice feature when you can't. ... Read more

Amazon.com Review

Are expensive router bits worth the cost? After testing Freud's 1/2-inch shank set, we think the answer is yes. The features found in these Freud bits--long-lasting micrograin carbide/titanium tips, tri-metal brazing, and an antikickback design--make them a better choice than less-expensive options. Each Freud bit is computer-balanced to run vibration- and chatter-free at speeds well in excess of the typical 22,000 rpm of most routers. These bits have a high shear angle that produces less tear-out and chatter marks, leaving a cross-grained cut that requires little or no sanding. Multiaxis grinding helps ensure the proper relief angle on cutting edges regardless of how the bit is oriented. The kit includes a variety of useful bits most frequently used by woodworkers and comes in a sturdy wooden case for maximum protection of the cutting edges. --Tim Block ... Read more

Features

• High shear angle for less tear-out and chatter marks
• Bits for V-grooving and flush trimming to chamfering and dovetailing
• All bits are solid carbide or carbide-tipped
• Anti-kickback design
• Perma-SHIELD-coated to reduce friction and heat build-up

Reviews (14)

The Best on Amazon.com
This is an excellent starter set for any woodworker. Once you use 1/2" shank bits , you'll never want to buy a bit with a 1/4 inch shank again. They really do cut smoother. The carbide is a little harder than the average bit. It will stay sharp a little longer than many other carbide bits . I find them very good with most hardwoods. They chip a little faster than some if you hit a misplaced brad nail or other hard object. Some will just keep on going. Not a Freud. This shouldn't be a problem most of the time. Freud was ranked in the top 5 in a fine woodworking bit test. It was far ahead of all other brands available at Amazon.com though. Jesada was ranked last out of 17 brands. I would stick with the Freud set. They are very good and reasonably priced to boot.

Versatility and quality
I am very pleased with the versatility and the quality of this set. It has allowed me to make a beautiful fireplace mantle out of solid maple. The cuts were clean with no tears, the bits I used stayed sharp throughout the routing. The bits in the set are varied enough to let you do almost any project you would like. I highly recommend this bit set to the novice woodworker or the experienced. It is great.

Excellent Quality
I have used this set of Freud bits in my shop for several years and I have not needed to have them sharpened yet. The cut is smooth and chatter free. These bits seem to cut through the hardest of wood effortlessly. I own many other brands of router bits, and I think that Freud has a far superior product. You may pay a little more for these bits than the cheaper bits from other manufacturers, but the money is well spent.

Can't fault this set
A very fine set of bits, I'm pleased. The only glitch is the plastic form inside the box; it allowed a bit to get loose and rattle around (and chip) during shipping. Amazon set it right, but I wish Freud would find a way of really locking the bits in during shipping. Other than that, a wonderful starter set.

Like butter
While I haven't routed any hardwood other than oak ply, these bits cruise through everything I've sent their way! The half inch shanks really stabalize them for super clean cuts. This set has a good selection of shapes to get you started if you don't have any or will upgrade some of your favorite shapes if you do. Worth the price.

Update: I've now used these to route plenty of harwood, including red oak and maple, these bits are still going strong! I've put a fair amount of use on them in the last year and haven't had a single problem with them. Keep them clean and dry and you won't either. ... Read more

Amazon.com Review

Instead of throwing away old, dull bits, give them a checkup with the Drill Doctor and extend their life. Although drill-bit sharpening systems often fail to live up to our expectations, we're here to bear witness for the truth of the Drill Doctor's claims: it really does sharpen old bits in just a couple of minutes. The 500SP (also known as the Tradesman) works on conventional, split-point, and masonry bits. It can sharpen bits from 3/32 to 1/2 inches in size, and though the machine will also work for 3/4-inch bits, we'd recommend buying the Professional model for doctoring these big boys, as it comes with a special chuck the 500SP lacks. Both models--the 500SP and the Professional 750SP--allow you to choose between a 118- and 135-degree sharpening angle. Operation is fairly simple, but to make sure no one has trouble figuring it out, the Drill Doctor comes with a how-to video. Anyone who frequently wears down drill bits is going to appreciate the savings this handy machine can offer. Using sharp bits instead of dull ones also increases the life of your drill, because sharper bits require less work to make the same hole. We only wish we'd found the Drill Doctor sooner. --Brian Trinen ... Read more

Features

• Carrying Case, How-to Video
• Easily sharpens to 118- or 135-degree points
• Sharpens masonry points
• Maintenance-free
• Precalibrated drill bit length setting

Reviews (15)

Drill bit savior
I used to throw out bits when they were dull. Never again! This tool is really simple to set up and use. I hate to think about the time I've wasted using dull bits. It takes just seconds to touch up a bit. My friends now ask me to sharpen their bits. I wish I had had a Drill Doctor ten years ago.

Nothing else comes close
I don't know how many broken or dull bits I have sitting around because up to now it has been one big pain in neck to resharpen them. I usually wind up buying a whole pack (10) of the most popular sizes I use and set them aside after they get dull. I have several different drill sharpeners; you know the type one would use with a grinder. Problem is they have never worked well for me, it seems like it's always hit or miss and most of the time "miss seems to prevail" and setting the jig up for sharpening the bits was always a chore. So it was with some trepidation I bought the Drill Doctor" especially because it was a lot more than I had ever paid for any other sharpener. But this is truly a case of "you get what you pay for...sometimes). But after reading the reviews I bit the bullet and ordered one. Gotta tell ya...I am now one happy camper when it comes to sharpening my old dull bits. It works just like the provided video shows, not just once but each and every time! Anyone who can't sharpen a bit properly with the Drill Doctor probably shouldn't be handling a power tool in the first place. I mean it is virtually moron proof. Loosely calculating the number of useless drill bits I have accumulated over the years I figure this tool will more than pay for itself. Looking for the right tool to sharpen your drill bits?...Buy the Drill Doctor, I promise you will never look back.
Oh by the way, a little background on me. I am a retired General Contractor and an active hobbyist. I own 6 cordless drills, 3 corded drills, and 2 drill presses (what can I say I have a weakness for good tools!) so I guess it would be fair to say I have had some experience working with drills and drill bits.

The Handyman's Money Saver
This is a great investment to help save money from buying extra drill bits when all they need is re-sharpened. I wish I had this product when I first started using drill bits. It comes with an instruction book & a VCR tape which helps to learn how to sharpen drill bits in almost no time. Just think of all the extra trips to the store this product will save you from?
If you happen to break a drill bit, just use this to put on another new tip. This model sharpens either of the 2 major angles for steel bits, plus split points and also mason bits.

NEWS
I have used this product in the past and found it to be very useful. I'm very discouraged in hearing that the new machines will be manufactured in China. I guess this is another example of companies concerned with profit margins and not quality. I will stock up on replacement wheels now to avoid future disappointments.

Seems to do what it says.
Used my drill doctor for the first time yesterday, seems to be pretty straight forward. Only a couple of things I could see after using it that would greatly improve it. First the electrical cord should be made of rubber, mine in my unheated shop, in MN, is like a slinky toy and came unplugged a couple of times. Next a light in the depth and alighning hole, my eyes aren't what they used to be and my shop isn't bright for close work during the waning hours of the day. Other than these two suggestions it seems to work ok and is going to be handy to have around. ... Read more

Features

• High-speed, air-powered
• High-capacity magazine
• Long-reach handle for added user comfort and control
• Aircraft-grade aluminum housing

Reviews (7)

Pneumatic or Manual
I use this pneumatic stapler on a daily basis. I've also used the pneumatic and manual nailers numerous times. I recommend the pneumatic stapler far beyond all else. It hardly ever jams and it sets the staples into the wood better than the manual. The nailer jams more and is much harder to clear, when it does. More often than anything, if the stapler jams you simply have to pick it up off the wood and tap it on the side of the resevoir. It normally will drop out any broken pieces of staple at that time. It makes life alot easier when you are working on a large floor.

Expensive But Worth It.
This tool makes laying a hardwood floor almost fun. If you are laying a prefinished floor, I would also recommend the optional foot (MIIIFOOT). I don't see that this is available on Amazon. I purchased mine on eBay. Also, some of the reviews on this item are for the MIIIFS, which is a floor stapler, not a nailer. According to some sources, there are less problems with the wood splitting with the nailer. There seems to be a hot market for these tools on eBay. I plan to resell mine when I am finished with it.

Bostitch MIIIFN
This air stapler was a life saver. I laid about 1900 square feet in my new house without one misfire. That was just over 20000 staples. The staples held very well and if I had it to do over again, I wouldn't change a thing. This air gun is well worth the money! It took me approximately 18 hours in my spare time to lay the hardwood floor. I am wery satisfied.

Nailer Breakdown
I was able to install 160 square feet of a 900 square foot flooring job before my nailer broke. Stanley considers this broken part "normal wear", and Amazon will not take back opened merchandise. Just a heads up to contractors who may worry about buying tools online- don't do it. My regular supplier would have given me a new nailer no questions asked.

Swing away (if you want)
I'm a small volume custom home builder with a crew of five. We install the hardwood flooring on most of our jobs. We have used a manual powernailer for years. Recently I purchased Bostitch's MIIIFN floor nailer and now have moved our manual nailer to the back of the tool bin. Just a light tap is all that is required to fire the nail. In the event the board is slightly bowed feel free to swing away and hammer the board in place. This tool is easy on my carpal tunnel and for those who aren't ambidexterious it's a snap to use with either hand. It does take some time getting used to dragging the air hose around with you, and you definitely need ear protection. But the benefits far outweigh these nuisances. ... Read more