Features

• Includes two 6", six 12", four 18", eight 24", four 30", and four 36" clamps
• Patented profile rail I-beam which minimizes flexing or bending
• Patented non-slip locking device
• Zinc finished drawn rail to prevent black marks from apearing on wood
• Six of our most popular sizes for a total of 30 clamps

Features

• No more cutting 1/16-inch oversize to allow for resurfacing
• 10-inch by 40-tooth, 1/8-inch kerf
• One blade does rip, combo, and crosscut
• No more scratchy saw cuts
• No more second-step finishing

Reviews (63)

Smoothest Cutting Blade I've Ever Used!
I use this in my 5hp Jet Table Saw and it is absolutely super! I do have the Forrest 5" dampener that I use with it which limits the depth of cut to 2 1/2". Without the damper, it will cut almost 3" in my saw. The cuts are so clean that you can literally go to the 220 grit sandpaper as the first grade! I figure I'll save the difference in cost on sandpaper alone (maybe)!

Forrest offers resharpening service for these blades that restores them to factory specs. They do require a special grind that most "locals" can't do. Buy this blade and you won't be sorry - buy once, cut twice as long!

The blade resurfaces so precisely, I sold my jointer
I bought my first Woodworker II at the AWFS show in 2001, and was so impressed with the quality of the cut that I snatched another up on eBay soon thereafter.

Before I bought a Forrest blade, I'd have to have to plane, joint, and then finish cut on my table saw to get precise 90 degree corners, and even then, the edges of my stock I couldn't use for a glue-joint.

Then I found the thin kerf Woodworker II. Wow, I've saved considerable time and sold my Delta jointer as a result of this sawblade. Even with over 1500 lineal feet of stock previously cut on the blade, I've been able to joint an edge straight from the tablesaw to the clamping rack. Impressive!

Make sure that you buy the Forrest blade stabilizer, and a zero clearance insert for your tablesaw, in order to get the most finished cuts. It'll reduce the depth of cut by about 1.5 inches, but you'll still be able to cut 8/4 stock with no problem.

Sharpening will [cost you]..., but you'll get a lot of use from it before you have to do that.

And, now I'm in the hunt for the Forrest 8 inch dado.

p.s. You can probably find it cheaper than here on Amazon[.com], look at eBay and at Forrest's website

Expensive But Worth It!
I have found that you generally get what you pay for when it comes to power tools, drill bits and saw blades. The Forrest WW II is no exception. I have one mounted in my 10" 3HP Jet cabinet saw and couldn't be more pleased with its performance. Like the other reviews, it cuts extremely smooth in both the rip and cross cut directions, saving un-necessary blade changes for each operation. I couldn't believe how smooth this blade cuts and is also a quiet blade. I also ordered the Forrest stablizer, but have not used it- I don't think you need it. I have used the blade for several months now and have cut 8/4 red and white oak, hard maple, and ash. The blade cuts so smooth that there is no visable kerf marks in the wood resulting in an edge that looks like it came off of a jointer! Forrest also offers a quality sharpening service which is highly recommended when you need it. I have friends that have been cutting with this model blade for over a year now and it still cuts like new. I know it seems expensive, but when you consider how much two high quality (one rip & one cross cut) blades would cost, plus the time to change blades, then it is really more economical in the long run. I have really been very pleased with its performance. Hope this helps you in your decision making. Happy Sawdustmaking!!

What's the big friggin' deal???
I was looking for a new saw blade because my Freud was good, but not as good as I thought it should be. I read everywhere that Forrest blades were the best around. After reading this for months, I decided I'll try one and I don't see the big deal I will return it.

Well, first I unwrapped the box and held the blade in my hand and could tell this is one well built blade. It is sturdy and heavy, very solid. Second, I mounted it on my tablesaw and mounted my zero clearance insert. I noticed immediately how well balanced the blade is because the blade did not chatter against the zero clearance plate like my Freud blade did. Third, I cut a piece of oak plywood and was amazed how the blade cut through it like a hot knife through butter. Fourth, there was not one splinter hanging from the plywood, whereas my Freud blade would cause a splintery mess. I would not hesitate to buy this blade again.

Well worth the money in my opinion!!!!
I had recently bought a Jet 3hp table saw and also bought the WWII blade...I was so impressed with the quality of the cut that I went out and bought the 12" Chopmaster and the 8" dado....I recommend their blades to anyone that I've encountered...I only use these blades for the better grades of wood...for cutting up 2X I'll use some Freud blades which do fine for that purpose but don't even come close to the Forrest Blades...

For those of you that have burning problems...you must not have your table saw set up right...cause I cannot see how you could be burning your wood on cuts when I don't experience this nor do a whole bunch of other people...

Get the Forrest Blades you won't regret it... ... Read more

Features

• Perfectly cut miter joints
• Ideal for miter saws
• Heavy-duty carbide
• Minimizes grabbing and throwing
• Negative face hook

Reviews (10)

Cuts like glass
This blade of extremely hard C4 carbide & the neg hook design make for the best chopsaw cut I have encountered yet.You can get a reflection from the end grain cut of a piece of hard maple.I use these blades every day all day in a high end cabinet shop, and leave them on the machines for months without need of sharpening.The blade is very well balanced and I would definitely recommend a blade stiffener. I have spent the money and bought the other brands but in no way do they compete with the quality & durabilty of the Forrest line.You will not be disappointed.

Best miter saw blade from the best blade manufacturer
The Forrest Chopmaster does not disappoint in the least. I use my blade on my delta 26-255L 12" Twinlaser miter saw.

The blade cuts effortlessly through all sorts of wood both soft (pine, poplar) and hard (maple, oak, hickory, etc.). When I say effortlessly, I do not exaggerate, for the blade encounters almost no resistance as it slices through wood. This buttery smoothness is the first thing you will notice when you put this blade on your saw.

The second thing you will notice is the smooth cut this blade gives you. Due to the precise grinding of the carbide tips, after a pass, you will not be able to see any streaks, abrasions or "circle burn" that is common with lesser or dull blades.

Now, just as every other blade on the market, it claims to have zero tearout and splinter-free cuts. This is simply impossible for any blade, so don't be disappointed when there's a tiny bit of splintering at the base of the cut. Now, the Chopmaster reduces the tearout to almost zero, but without using a supporting sacrificial piece behind the stock you are cutting, no blade on the planet will have zero splinters.

Suffice to say, the Chopmaster is the most expensive blade there is for your miter saw, but as with most tools, you get precisely what you pay for. If you wish to take your woodworking to the next level, you need to get this blade.

Remember, when it comes to precision, the quality of the blade or bit you use with the tool is equal to, if not more important than the quality of the tool itself.

I give in a 10 out of 5; Buy the right tool for job
The quality of tool cannot be compromised. Especially when you have customers with impeccable tastes.
Invaluable, I bought my first WW-II 10" 40T 5 years ago. I do a considerable amount of woodworking and have gone as far as to start my own business. I try to sharpen the blade once a year; however I've been so busy I can't let it leave my shop. I'm ashamed to say it's been 18 months since my last sharpening. So I just bought a second one to eliminate the down time.
I cut through hundreds of board feet of hard maple, oak, walnut, cherry and alder on one sharpening. The blade is so amazing I don't even use a jointer.
I made the mistake of purchasing a competitor's 12" 80 tooth for my miter saw for $120. It cut great for the first couple weeks, but nothing like my Wood Worker II 40 tooth. I'm going to purchase the 12" 80 tooth and give my other one away.

Forrest Blades
I bought 4 Forrest blades this fall. I had some problems with 1 of the blades. I posted a negative review. to my suprise I was contacted by Dave Morgan of www.forrestblades.com (not who I bought the Blade from) he sent me a new blade which cuts great. Customer service can't get much better than that.

Jack Krantz

Krantz Builders

Real nice miter blade
I replaced the 30 tooth carbide blade that came on my 12" miter saw with this one.
Extremly smooth cuts and even with 80 teeth is is plenty fast cuting for miter work. Eliminated tearout and chipping that I had with previous blade. ... Read more

Features

• No more cutting 1/16-inch oversize to allow for resurfacing
• 10-inch by 40-tooth, 3/32-inch thin kerf
• Rip, combination, and crosscut blade
• No more scratchy saw cuts
• No more second-step finishing

Reviews (21)

Great blade but maybe just as overrated
This blade rips 3" stock just as effortlessly as it crosscuts 1/2" stock. It is fairly quiet and does leave silky smooth crosscuts. Cuts in formica or delicate veneered plywood are perfectly splinter free. No tendency to kickback. Rip cuts, however, are not always smooth and do often require jointing; not that I know of a better blade, but for me this is not the miracle blade it is stated to be. I really don't think the thin kerf is worth all the hassle and would definately buy the 1/8" next time as the stabilizers are pricey and interfere with the throat insert (especially a zero clearance). I had to shift my table to allow even the standard insert to fit, then I routed out the bottom of the zero clearance insert for clearance at max depth and now I curse whenever attempting to utilize the kerf for a rabbet or such.

WOODWORKER II SAVES MONEY IN THE LONG RUN
I've been using the Woodworker II (3/32) blade in my tablesaw for four years now and it's absolutely the best. It's quiet, stays sharp and makes very smooth cuts. I used to use a number different blades for rips/crosscuts/plywood, etc. Now, I use the WWII for everything. If you think about it, the high initial cost is more than offset by not needing other blades.

I cut a lot of veneered plywood for cabinet carcases. Most blades become dull very quickly in plystock but the WWII stays sharp longer than any other blade I've ever used. The cuts are smooth although for the absolute minimum splintering when crosscutting oak laminates, you should still make a light surface cut. Feed rates are good with minimal effort and there is no tendency to burn.

Spend a few extra bucks and get the blade stiffeners; the already excellent cuts improve just a bit more. However, keep in mind, if you use a shooting board, you'll lose some blade exposure as the stiffener raises above the table surface and contacts the board.

Amazing. No other word for it.
I had a Freud blade on my table saw previously and thought I was pleased with the cut. I saw this blade demonstrated at a wood show...cross cuts, rip cuts, etc. The surface of everything I have cut since I purchased this is as smooth as a 220 grit sanded surface. Plywood, pine, birch, and oak all have been tackled with no sign of dulling. The saw runs with less stress and cuts are made faster. The money spent, is recouped on the first project you do in time saved not sanding. An example was I could go from a rip cut on plywood and immediately apply veneer without sanding.

Mind you, you still need to be sure your fence and blade are parallel or even with this "magic" blade you will get burn marks. I did buy the stiffner so I can't comment on with/without. You do loose some cutting depth with the stiffner, but all of what I cut on the table saw has not been an issue. The lesson I learned is that I spent good money on a saw, but the blade is where the best investment is made.

Absolutley the best blade on the market!
Ever since I started woodworking at age 15 the table saw has always been my favorite tool, and I would always try to do things to improve it, make the saw perfect, and I had always seen the forrest woodworker 2 blade advertising. Up untill now at age 17 I had been using the freud thin kerf combination blade, and thought that it left the smoothest cuts, untill i finally got the forrest woodworker 2 thin kerf blade and now I wont change blades. The forrest blade is perfect, it cuts so smoothely, and quietly, with no effort. I just love the blade, the way it cuts, the sound of it, everything. Recently I tried my old freud blade again, and now it feels like its dull even though its a brand new blade, because the forrest blade is so well made. Ill never go back to using the freud blade.

Everything the marketing types boast about is true
I'm inherently skeptical so I relied on comments I read from purported, actual users of the blade. After all, $100 is a lot for a blade. The saw runs noticeably quieter, the cuts in soft and hardwoods are extremely smooth, the wood glides effortlessly through the blade, and it makes fine dust as opposed to wood chips as the waste product. The company actually tells the truth. The best analogy I can give is to compare a surgeon's scalpel with a cub scout pocket knife. Yes, they both cut, but the Forrest is most definitely a precision instrument. ... Read more

Features

• Made of M2 laminated tool steel
• Disposable and reversible knives for the DW735n 13-inch planer
• Easily fit onto the knife locating pins machined on a DW735 cutter-head

Features

• Thin kerf (.099) for fast and smooth cutting action
• Exclusive wedge shoulder design puts more steel behind each tip
• Computer balanced plate reduces vibration for better finish
• Includes 12" 80T and 12" 32T ATB carbide blades with 1" arbor

Reviews (2)

combo blade pack
This is a great deal! The money I saved buying these blades allowed me to buy other accessories for my saw. Not to mention the fact that after using the 32 tooth blade for cutting the framing I can switch over and use the 80 tooth blade for the molding. The thin kerf of these blades allows for accurate cuts.

Saw Blade Combo Pack
This is a great deal, for any one with a 12" mitre saw.. ...I got 2 saw blades a 30 tooth, and an 80 tooth,one for finish work and one for rough every day cuts , ... my saw came with a 60 tooth blade ,, now I have 3 blades that will allow me to cut anything I need...GREAT DEAL, I actually got 1 blade free, ... ... Read more

Features

• Thin kerf design
• Hardened plate
• Specially engineered heat vents
• Unique shoulder design

Reviews (1)

best blade made
this is the best blade made for frameing concret decking anything really its the only blade i will put on my saws i buy these blades by the box of 50 or 100 for my company i have been useing them for the last ten years and nothing has come close the performance of these blades and the teeth last a long time even when cuting form panles so stick whit the IRWIN Marathon blade and you wont be disapointed ... Read more

Features

• 5/8" arbor
• Polycrystalline diamond tips
• 6 tooth design
• Dust reducing technology
• Self sharpening

Reviews (1)

Hitachi 10 inch fiber cement saw blade
This is a great tool for cutting cement siding. I use mine in my radial arm saw and get very smooth cuts. With the radial arm saw I can cut the widest planks. The dust is much less than cutting with a regular carbid blade. I also use the 7 1/2 inch blade in a circular saw for rip cuts. I am also using Malco Plank Gauges for holding the planks during installation and they are very helpful. ... Read more

Features

• Flush cut design allows for completely perpendicular cuts to flooring in tight areas
• Longer lasting 1-3/8" saw blade for Multimaster tool
• Perfect for flush cutting applications
• Finer tooth pattern provides more control and longer blade life
• Great for doorjambs, baseboards, toe kicks, and flooring work

Features

• Excellent general-purpose blade designed for delivering the highest production at the lowest cost
• Manufactured using the latest in laser welding technology to insure optimum performance

Features

• Instantly removable
• 5-inch, 5/8-inch arbor
• Ideal for radial-arm and table saws
• Dampens motor and belt vibrations
• Reduce cutting noise

Reviews (7)

Great Blade Accessory!
I use this with my Forrest Woodworker II blade in my Jet 5hp table saw. It makes an already great blade work fantastic. The only thing you have to watch is that it does diminish your depth of cut on the table saw. I still have over 2" of cut which is satisfactory for most of my applications. If I need to go deeper, I just take it off.

Puts an end to blade wobble
I am currently using this on my table saw. It lays up against the side of your blade, and helps to keep it true. Once in awhile I need to make a deeper cut, and it can get in the way for those cuts. I made some passes 2 1/2" deep and the edge of the Forrest stiffner stopped the piece. It is the first time I have had a problem with that.
Initially I installed this stiffner on a Sears Radial Arm saw because I was getting a good deal of wobble with it. Oddly enough, when I tried mounting a blade, then testing the trueness, only to loosen the nut, spin the blade slightly to a new seat, then retighten, and after a few tries, I hit it right, and the wobble disappeared. So whenever I replace a blade on that saw, I tweak it until it is right. Oddly enough, it runs so true when I do that, that I moved the Forrest over to the table saw.
I mated this stiffner up to the Forrest Woodworker II on my table saw, and I am getting cuts so smooth, you don't even have to sand the edge. It is finish quality perfectly smooth. (The Incra TSIII-32 table saw fence helps, giving me a true exact paralell line with the blade.)
So get the stiffner, make sure your fence is perfectly true, and you can forget about having to make your cuts a little bit oversized and having to finish up the edge on the jointer.
Highly recommended. The Forrest name is synonymous with the best in quality.

Stiffens up an already great blade
I use the stiffener with my thin kerf Forest II blade and it does take some of the "wobble" out. Well worth the price.

A worthy addition to a great blade
I was skeptical of any added benefit that a stabilizer would add to my Woodworker II blade - it cuts great by itself. I bought the stiffener as an "insurance policy" - similar to another reviewer.

I immediately noticed a difference - a ring that the blade made when I used a zero tolerance insert dissapeared when I added the stiffener. Clearly some vibration was removed and some incidental contact with the insert was prevented. It it too early to say if this will clearly make a difference in a ripped board, but any reduced vibration is a good thing in my book.

I gave this 4 stars only due to the price - I don't see a justification for the price. I think this could be offered less expensively or offered (at a discount) with the blade in a package.

A Must Have
If you use thin kerf blades then you gotta get it. ... Read more

Features

• Limited warranty
• 6 TPI, 6" length, bi-metal construction
• 1/2" universal tang fits all Sawzalls
• 50 blades per box
• For very fast cutting in nail embedded wood and general roughing-in work

Features

• Basic kit of most often used blades for Multimaster system
• Carbide grout blade for cleaning and easy removal of damaged tile
• Carbide rasp for aggressive material removal on wood
• Convex knife blade for cutting linoleum, carpet, rubber or cardboard
• E-Cut blade for under cutting door jamb or counter kicks to make room for new tile

Reviews (2)

The Quality Tool Super Deal
The Fein Multimaster is an exceptional tool. The concave cutting blade that comes with the multimaster kit, does a nice job, but it dulls rather quickly. It is not made out of the hardened steel of the Feins optional blades. They are pricey, but the quality is there. The thing this kit does for you is give you the most frequently used blades at a substantial savings over their individual prices. The professional kit that superceded this one, was for the same price, and did not include the extra blade. The price you have to pay for just a couple of the pieces, you can buy the whole kit. This super professional kit is one sweet deal. Softens the price of the tool at least a little bit.

Only buy authentic Fein accessories
I would like to suggest you see my other reviews of Fein accessories. And, I would like to suggest you don't buy from Feinblades.com. They have no affiliation with Fein company. Buy authentic Fein accessories. They cost more, and I don't like paying more than I have to for anything, but, I have such respect for fine Fein tools that I willingly pay more for genuine Fein accessories. These are not only authentic, but, the original detail sander tools. They invented it and the rest have to scrounge for the unpatented crumbs. I suggest you buy stategically by buying the packaged accessories which total less than buying the same pieces seperately. ... Read more

Features

• Continuous thin rim diamond blade
• For wet cutting of of porcelain, vitreous and ceramic tile
• 10" diameter with 5/8" arbor
• Premium grade

Reviews (3)

Not as good as I thought
After about two weeks of using this blade I have to change my review. It still cuts a lot faster and the chipout is a lot less than the blade that came with the tile saw but...it's a thin kerf saw blade and there is a lot of flex in the blade. It doesn't like to cut bevels or cut a little off an already cut piece. I end up changing back to my old blade when I make a bevel cut or shave 1/16th off due to the flex in the blade.

Great blade
I just replaced the saw blade that came with my tile saw with this blade and what a difference. It cuts a LOT faster and chipout virtually disappeared. I'm glad I bought this blade and would do it again.

Hot Doggin
This is one of the best blades I've worked with. I have had many blades some good some bad, but this is by far the best for cutting ceramic and porcelain. Of course porcelain being the harder of the two and the more difficult to work with. This blade is rated at Mk's website as the best they make in 10" blades for cutting these flooring materials. The price is the best you can find at 60.00 some stores are selling at 75.00 and up to 91.00. Great buy ... Read more

Features

• Special carbide grit helps ensure longer blade life
• Accommodates any joint size from 1/16-inch to 1/2-inch
• Dustless
• Fits in most common reciprocating saws or sawzall
• Unique curved bottom on blades to start it out in the joint easier

Reviews (11)

DIFFICULT CHORE SO MUCH EASIER AND FASTER
Dear John Laurent, I wanted to let you know how satisfied we are with your Grout Grabber, grout removal tool. We are a good size ceramic tile contracting firm and we have to remove and replace tile on a daily basis. Your product has made this difficult chore so much easier and faster. Prior to purchasing the Grout Grabber tile and grout removal was a terribly messy job. customers would complain about the dust created by the old process. Now we remove the grout with the Grout Grabber which causes very minimal dust which makes our installers, as well as our customers very happy. We have been very pleased with the longevity of the blades used to remove the grout and with the Grout Grabber tool as a whole. Thank you for making this great tool!

grout grabber test
dear grout grabber, after receiving your grout grabber, i was interested to see for myself just how your product performed with various kinds of grout and in most conditions. i am happy to report that the grout grabber performs extremely well. it is rewarding to see great it works with both unsanded and sanded grouts. i was able to cut grout directly up to the baseboards without damaging the baseboards and remove the grout, out of the joints, down to the bonding mortar. in just a few minutes your tool removed all the bad grout and also cleaned the edges of the tiles, which made it quick and easy for the re-installation of the new grout. at other jobs we were able to perform spot removal and pointed up the grout in a fraction of the time spent with old methodes of grout removal. i have recommended your product to our constituents as wee as the many people requesting information daily from the TILE INSTITUTE of AMERICA's office. thank you for providing our industry with a quality piece of equipment that also works better than expected, sincerely, Gerald M. Halweg, CTC,CSI,President TILE INSTITUTE of AMERICA

Maybe okay theoretically, but a ripoff in practice
I've just wasted some money and time discovering the Grout Grabber doesn't work worth a (darn). Apply any pressure whatsoever to the tool, and it bends sideways. Despite a firm graasp on the reciproating saw, this "tool" dances all over the place, thus damaging the surrounding tiles. Bad news!!

I'm going to get a diamond blade for my Rotozip and try that. Meanwhile, we're using a Hilti demolition hammer to tear the whole floor out and start over.

Best Regrouting Option!!
I have 380 sq ft of ceramic 1'x1' tiles in my kitchen and down the hall, this SIMPLE tool made the job do-able with only chipping (2) tiles.
Don't get me wrong I had some hard grout and it took me 16.5 hrs and 8 double blade (2 blades at a time) changes...I wore those blades down to a nub and they still cut.
If I would had used a circle saw my house would still be in a cloud of dust and I also tried the rotozip thing (my first plunge I was chipping tiles).
I only gave 4 stars because of the dust. It's not dustless but it definalty is less dust.
BUY IT!!

Buy a Rotozip instead
I found the Grout Grabber to be all but useless. First, a proviso: my grout was extremely nasty - very hard, more like stucco actually. Sure, this tool removed some of it, though not quickly and not without a bunch of blade changes. Maneuvering the large sawzall around the enclosed spaces that were tiled was pretty tedious too.

After struggling with this for a few hours and getting a moderate amount of work done, a buddy recommended a Rotozip, and loaned me his. A quick trip to the hardware store for a diamond blade and I was in business. The Rotozip did the trick. It was fast, went through the grout like my circular saw goes through wood. It also went through the chicken wire that was holding the mortar in place, throwing off some lovely (but harmless) sparks.

Note that I didn't use the carbide grout bit, which I tried and found to be useless. I used a circular diamond blade intended for tile, cement and so forth. Note as well that this blade isn't recommended for the speed of the cheaper Rotozip, but that's what I had and it worked.

Anyway, the combination of the Rotozip RTM01 with RotoZip ZM101 and the Dry Diamond blade worked like a dream. There is a more expensive Rotozip with adjustable speed that should work as well and perhaps be safer. ... Read more