Features

• 20-degree 16-gauge nail for finish nailing
• Manufactured out of cold-worked carbon steel
• Galvanized in a "hot-dip" process which ensures that the fastener will resist rust and moisture

Features

• Pin designed for delicate projects such as craft assembly
• Package includes 2,670 3/4" pins
• 23 gauge galvanized pin
• Convenient clam shell package

Features

• Pin designed for delicate projects such as craft assembly
• Package includes 2,670 5/8" pins
• 23 gauge galvanized pin
• Convenient clam shell package

Features

• 3/4-inch finish brad nails
• 18 gauge
• 5,000 per pack

Reviews (2)

18 gauge brads in a 16 gauge nailer?
I haven't tried these yet, hence the neutral score, but I suspect Derek's problems might have been due to trying to use 18 gauge nails in a 16 gauge finish nailer (FN250A). No wonder they would misfire.

Poor Quality Nails for the Porter-Cable Finish Nailer
These nails are not of the quality necessary for the Porter-Cable Finish Nailer that they are typically advertised with (FN250A and others). They sometimes came out 2 at a time, not at all, or caused the nailer to jam. I called Porter-Cable, and acquired their nails, and the problems went away. I would not recommend these nails, especially for this nailer. ... Read more

Features

• Plastic Collated
• 21 degree - Round Head
• Works in: N88RH & N88RH-2MCN

Features

• 20-degree 16-gauge nail for finish nailing
• Manufactured out of cold worked carbon steel
• Galvanized in a "hot-dip" process which ensures that the fastener will resist rust and moisture

Features

• So long lasting, in fact, that if you build with conventional pressure treated lumber, our screws will likely outlast the wood
• QuikDrive screws allow quick fastening from a standing position, and drive perfectly, every time
• Stay securely in place and drive straight with no wobble
• Extremely durable, these coarse thread screws easily pull together the stiffest, most misaligned work pieces and keep them solidly in place
• Galvanized coating provides long lasting corrosion protection and bombproof fastening for years to come

Features

• 5/8-inch finish brad nails
• 18 gauge
• 5,000 per pack

Reviews (9)

Nail Utopia
Aurangzeb should pack some of these nails on his way to Mitchell Bros. for protection from, shall we say, the elements. Besides being totally wood-compliant (!), these nails would make for a great conversation starter at Mitchell Bros. for both Aurangzeb and Trenton.

Nails are cool - i saw Aurengzeb & Trenton @ Mitchell Bros
B&C Eagle B18-58 are the Brad Pitts in this marketplace. Women definately love to use these nails. Keep them in the cooler for parties and crucifictions. Aurengzeb and Trenton spend lots of money at Mitchell Bros

Breakthrough in nailing technology
These nails are outstanding. I agree with Aurangzeb. They are a major technological advancement. They are pointed, well driven, and respond favorably to the principles of adherence and cohesion. A must have in every home.

Disappointing performance
I have to say that, while I liked the way the B-18 looks, I found its performance desperately lacking. Some of the "enhancements" from the B-17 just don't justify the increased cost. For my money, the classic B-16 (the "Sgt. Pepper" of the Brad Nail) can't be beat.

Who the heck is Brad anyway? These nails SUCK!
I don't know what the rest of the reviewers were using their nails for, because I couldn't even get them to go into my wall, let alone hold something up with them. Every time I tried to pound one in, it just bent in half! After using these sorry excuses for fastening devices, I have only one word: SCREWS! ... Read more

Features

• Unaffected by finishes
• Waterproof-Superior Strength
• Lower Application Temperature
• Longer Open Assembly Time
• Resists Solvents, heat & mildew

Features

• 18-ounce bottle
• 100% waterproof
• Solvent-free
• Stainable
• Bonds to ceramics, plastics, metals, stone, and more

Reviews (8)

Tests of Gorilla Glue are not representative of results
I've used Gorilla Glue for over seven years for both woodworking and construction. The people who wrote to say they comparative tested the glue against Titebond are also admitting they have limited knowledge. It appeared that on one test the guy did not clamp the wood together, so the joint failed, polyurethane glue expands as it cures. I once glued and lag screwed pressure treated lumber together, then decided to change the design in less than an hour. The wood broke beside the joints, but the joints all held.
Here's what I found: Elmer's or Titebond are both good for woodworking in most situations. (I prefer Elmer's because Titebond is so runny that it is messy.) However there are times for polyurethane glues like Gorilla Glue. Keep some on hand and use your judgement. For construction, I use Gorilla Glue in a lot of places where I used to use Liquid Nails because it spreads in the gaps of the lumber. Example: Laminating CDX plywood or 2x's to form beams. Liquid Nails stays where you put it creating it's own gaps between the layers, which weakens the assembly. (It's the friction between the two pieces of lumber that give them their combined strength, they are 'locked' together by the nails. Liquid Nails has body which tends to hold the pieces apart.) Gorilla Glue has much less body and expands to fill the areas where you did not apply the glue. This doesn't work as well for well machined small joints on hardwood. Carpenter's glue is better for this and is less messy. (Yes it is gooey, paint thinner or something hotter like laquer thinner will clean off most of it if it hasn't started to set.) But if you are doing a large area and can clamp, Gorilla Glue excels.
Use the wisdom God gave you and experiment. Remember, He not only gave you a spoon, but a knife and fork to eat with. You don't use a table saw to bore holes, do you? The various glues have varying best uses. I keep Gorilla Glue, Elmer's Carpenter Glue and Liquid Nails on hand. I even use Liquid Nails in my woodworking shop.

Should be "Gooey Glue"
I tried Gorilla Glue because of its ability to take stain, and it does, however ....

Wear dispoable gloves when using this glue; stray glue turns into a stickey, gooey mess on your fingers. The directions say it can be removed from skin (except for the stain) with soap & water. Wrong! The only thing I found to work is a soak in the hottub for about a half hour after it dries.

It seemed to hold quite well, I was edge joining boards with biscuits. I applied the glue in the slots and soaked the biscuits in water first, briefly. I also applied a thin layer of glue on one board and wiped the other down with a damp cloth.

It does foam out of the joint excessively for about a half hour after you clamp things together. You must use a cloth or paper towel saturated with mineral spirits to keep the joint halfway cleaned up while it is tacky. After it set, I still had some excess that I was able to remove with a chisel. I sanded the remains, but I think a cabinet scraper would work better. The result is a thin bead of porous surface that will not sand as smooth as the wood. It takes a few layers of finish to smooth it over, sanding between coats.

The best results come if you use this glue VERY sparingly. You will have less squeeze-out and foaming to clean up. It will take some getting used to after using carpenters glue. It is similar to polyurethane glues in some respects. I will use it where I need water resistance, but for simplicity will stick to "white" glues for other applications.

stronger
I tested this glue against Titebond II on soft and hard woods, and then after soaking the glue joints in water for twelve hours. The Gorilla glue was slightly stronger, both dry and when soaked. It also fills small cracks better as it expands as it dries. This can be a disadvantage as it needs to be sanded and scrapped when completely dry to remove the "foam expansion." The working time is not significantly different between the two glues. I use it for critical joints where brute strength is an issue and where the joint may get wet, but use Titebond II for others as it is less expensive and easier to clean up.

Strange Stuff
I usually use Titebond, but, because of some rave reviews, I decided to try the Gorilla Glue. I went to it because I heard it gives you more working time. But after glueing up some boards, I gave them a test and found, to my absolute dismay, that I was able to pull the boards apart after the gorilla glue was dried! This is not supposed to happen. The directions tell you to moisten the surface first, which I did, but still, the bond was not strong enough for my taste.

Also, the glue is IMPOSSIBLE -- and I repeat -- IMPOSSIBLE to clean off your hands. You MUST wear rubber gloves if you use this stuff. I got some of this glue on my hands when I used it, and it literally took a week of scrubbing every day before it was all off. This would be OK if the glue was really outstanding, but I have my doubts.

I have decided to return to Titebond.

Sorry Glue
I tried this glue next to Titebond. I glued 1 piece of Poplar to another piece of Poplar with each glue. Two hours later I tested both bonds. The Titebond held, the wood split. The Gorilla Glue did not hold, it pulled loose form the other piece of wood leaving a slick spot where it had dried. ... Read more