Features

• 18-ounce bottle
• 100% waterproof
• Solvent-free
• Stainable
• Bonds to ceramics, plastics, metals, stone, and more

Reviews (8)

Tests of Gorilla Glue are not representative of results
I've used Gorilla Glue for over seven years for both woodworking and construction. The people who wrote to say they comparative tested the glue against Titebond are also admitting they have limited knowledge. It appeared that on one test the guy did not clamp the wood together, so the joint failed, polyurethane glue expands as it cures. I once glued and lag screwed pressure treated lumber together, then decided to change the design in less than an hour. The wood broke beside the joints, but the joints all held.
Here's what I found: Elmer's or Titebond are both good for woodworking in most situations. (I prefer Elmer's because Titebond is so runny that it is messy.) However there are times for polyurethane glues like Gorilla Glue. Keep some on hand and use your judgement. For construction, I use Gorilla Glue in a lot of places where I used to use Liquid Nails because it spreads in the gaps of the lumber. Example: Laminating CDX plywood or 2x's to form beams. Liquid Nails stays where you put it creating it's own gaps between the layers, which weakens the assembly. (It's the friction between the two pieces of lumber that give them their combined strength, they are 'locked' together by the nails. Liquid Nails has body which tends to hold the pieces apart.) Gorilla Glue has much less body and expands to fill the areas where you did not apply the glue. This doesn't work as well for well machined small joints on hardwood. Carpenter's glue is better for this and is less messy. (Yes it is gooey, paint thinner or something hotter like laquer thinner will clean off most of it if it hasn't started to set.) But if you are doing a large area and can clamp, Gorilla Glue excels.
Use the wisdom God gave you and experiment. Remember, He not only gave you a spoon, but a knife and fork to eat with. You don't use a table saw to bore holes, do you? The various glues have varying best uses. I keep Gorilla Glue, Elmer's Carpenter Glue and Liquid Nails on hand. I even use Liquid Nails in my woodworking shop.

Should be "Gooey Glue"
I tried Gorilla Glue because of its ability to take stain, and it does, however ....

Wear dispoable gloves when using this glue; stray glue turns into a stickey, gooey mess on your fingers. The directions say it can be removed from skin (except for the stain) with soap & water. Wrong! The only thing I found to work is a soak in the hottub for about a half hour after it dries.

It seemed to hold quite well, I was edge joining boards with biscuits. I applied the glue in the slots and soaked the biscuits in water first, briefly. I also applied a thin layer of glue on one board and wiped the other down with a damp cloth.

It does foam out of the joint excessively for about a half hour after you clamp things together. You must use a cloth or paper towel saturated with mineral spirits to keep the joint halfway cleaned up while it is tacky. After it set, I still had some excess that I was able to remove with a chisel. I sanded the remains, but I think a cabinet scraper would work better. The result is a thin bead of porous surface that will not sand as smooth as the wood. It takes a few layers of finish to smooth it over, sanding between coats.

The best results come if you use this glue VERY sparingly. You will have less squeeze-out and foaming to clean up. It will take some getting used to after using carpenters glue. It is similar to polyurethane glues in some respects. I will use it where I need water resistance, but for simplicity will stick to "white" glues for other applications.

stronger
I tested this glue against Titebond II on soft and hard woods, and then after soaking the glue joints in water for twelve hours. The Gorilla glue was slightly stronger, both dry and when soaked. It also fills small cracks better as it expands as it dries. This can be a disadvantage as it needs to be sanded and scrapped when completely dry to remove the "foam expansion." The working time is not significantly different between the two glues. I use it for critical joints where brute strength is an issue and where the joint may get wet, but use Titebond II for others as it is less expensive and easier to clean up.

Strange Stuff
I usually use Titebond, but, because of some rave reviews, I decided to try the Gorilla Glue. I went to it because I heard it gives you more working time. But after glueing up some boards, I gave them a test and found, to my absolute dismay, that I was able to pull the boards apart after the gorilla glue was dried! This is not supposed to happen. The directions tell you to moisten the surface first, which I did, but still, the bond was not strong enough for my taste.

Also, the glue is IMPOSSIBLE -- and I repeat -- IMPOSSIBLE to clean off your hands. You MUST wear rubber gloves if you use this stuff. I got some of this glue on my hands when I used it, and it literally took a week of scrubbing every day before it was all off. This would be OK if the glue was really outstanding, but I have my doubts.

I have decided to return to Titebond.

Sorry Glue
I tried this glue next to Titebond. I glued 1 piece of Poplar to another piece of Poplar with each glue. Two hours later I tested both bonds. The Titebond held, the wood split. The Gorilla Glue did not hold, it pulled loose form the other piece of wood leaving a slick spot where it had dried. ... Read more

Features

• Reduces need for mechanical fasteners
• 75 sec set time
• Versatile performance
• Longer open time for precise assembly
• Bonds most common materials

Reviews (1)

side by side comparison
i had to get a plastic curtain hung right away. i used this to attach several hundred feet of velcro stripping. it was ready for immediate use! i could attach and re-attach the velcro without worry. it never pulled off! when i ran out i used another brand epoxy glue which took until the next day to set. the gun heats up quickly. i have stored and re-used a tube without any problems. good to have available for rush jobs, etc. but not for every day. cost is the limiting factor, not performance. ... Read more

Features

• 100% Waterproof
• Bonds wood, stone, metal, ceramic, foam and more.
• Paintable and stainable
• Solvent free

Reviews (1)

joining wood using gorilla glue
easy to use,stores well, sandable, stainable, bonds extremely well. a truly excellent product for wood. I am now expanding my uses to other materials and find it excellent also. I highly recommend the product. ... Read more

Features

• 100%waterproof
• Cures with exposure to moisture in the wood and atmosphere
• Solvent-free
• Stainable and self-spreading

Features

• dries clear
• Bonds Melamine & Vinyl coated products to porous materials
• Thicker formulation
• Fewer runs and drips
• Low Odor-nonflammable

Features

• Plastic storage case
• Stainless-steel construction
• Hardened measurement surfaces
• .001-inch accuracy
• Easy glide action

Reviews (3)

Review of Chicago Brand 50004 Stainless Steel Dial Caliper
I purchased one of the above-stated calipers in June 2001. When the calipers' jaws were closed, the dial indicator accurately indicated zero. The calipers' inch scale was accurate at markings corresponding to inches 3, 4, 5, and 6, but slightly inaccurate at the markings corresponding to inch 2 and inch 1. I own a ruler manufactured by Starrett, and I compared the inch markings on the calipers' scale with the inch markings on the Starrett ruler. I do not view the inch 2 and inch 1 scale markings as a material defect because I can and do check all my measurements against my Starrett ruler anyway. The calipers were made of stainless steel and seemed sturdy. The calipers indicated it was made in China. The knurled knob for small adjustments of the calipers' jaws engaged with appropriate thumb pressure and smoothly increased or decreased the distance between the jaws. The lock screw operated properly. The calipers did not have markings showing millimeters--only an inch scale was marked. The calipers included a hard plastic case, which seemed suitable for their long-term storage. Overall I was satisfied with the calipers. Accuracy is the most important factor to me and the calipers were sufficiently accurate for my purposes, but remember that I have a Starrett ruler that I use to check the measurements I make with the calipers, and I do not have to rely on the calipers' inch scale. I would be uncomfortable relying on measurements I made with any calipers (including but not limited to the one I purchased in June 2001) without verifying my measurements with an accurate ruler.

You get what you pay for
I don't know why I thought I could get a decent caliper for [thisprice]. I don't need a caliper all that often, so I thought I didn'tneed the best. Live and learn. It arrived broken. The needle was not attached to the face of the dial. Overall, while the weight of the stainless is impressive, the construction seems flimsy. I've decided to bite the bullet and get the Starrett. As I've learned too many times now: "buy the best and cry once."

Don't be fooled by the low price
This is a solid well-made instrument that is a delight to own. Surfaces are ground perfectly, repeatability and accuracy are excellent. Sure it is possible to quibble: there are few grey flecks on the dial, and the attachment of the retainer for the end of the slider looks like it *might* be less than perfect (maybe in a few years it *might* be a problem). But for the same price as the plastic junk at the local home store, this all-steel instrument is an excellent choice. ... Read more

Features

• Excellent Flexibility & will not discolor, weather resistant
• Seal is watertight & mildew-resistant
• Withstands extreme temperature changes
• Designed for Interior & Exterior applications
• Excellent Adhesion to most building materials

Features

• Outstanding bond strength
• Excellent Water-resistance
• Ideal for Exterior Applications
• Strong Initial Tack-Fast Set
• Excellent Sandability

Reviews (1)

Do not use if you don't want it to be perminant
All the projects I have built was glued with Titebond II.
Better then any other glue I have used. ... Read more

Features

• Excellent Flexibility & will not discolor, weather resistant
• Seal is watertight & mildew-resistant
• Withstands extreme temperature changes
• Designed for Interior & Exterior applications
• Excellent Adhesion to most building materials

Features

• Excellent Flexibility & will not discolor, weather resistant
• Seal is watertight & mildew-resistant
• Withstands extreme temperature changes
• Designed for Interior & Exterior applications
• Excellent Adhesion to most building materials

Features

• 8-ounce bottle
• 100% waterproof
• Solvent-free
• Stainable
• Bonds to ceramics, plastics, metals, stone, and more

Reviews (5)

The right tool for many jobs!
I have restored many old desks which I acquired from a local University surplus auction. These oak desks were very good quality, but they unfortunately had an ugly black top on them. I am unsure of what the black surface is, but it seems to be some sort of plastic/synthetic. After stripping the desks and removing the edge trim from the tops, I used Gorilla glue to attach furniture grade oak plywood to the black surface. After making a new edge banding and using traditional finishing techniques, the desks look like a million bucks. I experimented with other adhesives, but found Gorilla glue to be the absolute best for strength, working time, and cost. There is a bit of ooze-out when clamping pressure is applied, but I just wait for the glue to dry and scrape the hardened seepage with a chisel befor sanding. I highly recommend this glue!!!

Incredible Strength
Gorilla Glue is the strongest glue out there. Yes, it oozes out and can be a pain to clean up, but that is why it is some much stronger than other glues. It is the right glue if strength is most important. If you want a glue stronger than you wood, use it. If you want to glue on trim that is not getting abuse, then use a common wood glue.

By the way, with practice it is easy to figure out the right amount of glue (much less than traditional glue) for the job. Also you can wipe off the ooze with a damp cloth as it comes out, thus avoiding scraping and sanding.

I have built a table, chairs, spice rack, end tables to mention a few; all of which are strong enough to stand (and if you really wanted to, dance on).

As for all the negative reviews, those people need to figure out the correct product for the job.

Love This Stuff
Amazing. I use this glue (waterproof) on anything that is going to be outside. This is the first self-spreading glue I have every used. Didn't think much of that feature at first, but have grown to appreciate. Saves you a lot of time and mess. No brushing out like hide glue. No wiping with a wet sponge. It takes a little time to get used to .... where and how-much to apply. A little dab will do you. Staying on the conservative side will save you clean up later. Clean up consists of scraping off the dry foam. Great on mortise and tenon joints because it fills all of the voids. Very stong. Has a shelf life so buy a small bottle to begin with.

Don't get crazy
I was very interested in finding a good glue that I could use in a snap that would make for a strong and durable joint. Well, I sort of found one. This glue does make for a strong joint ( the durability seems to be there - time will tell ), but the "use in a snap" part was disappointing ( 20 minute working time and 90 minute dry time, humidity dependent and 1-4 hours under clamp ). I will compare this glue to expanding foam. Once it dries, spray foam is the closest thing to it. It never really totally scrapes off, so sanding is necessary, and it is near impossible to figure out just how much to use and exactly where to apply because of the foaming process. I will not use this glue for fine and exposed jointery, I am pretty certain it works well and as advetised, but the "ooze" is something that I am not pleased with - sure it gets into tight places and fills voids, but by the time I scrape, sand and dig it out and off of everyting around it - it has taken me three times longer than with other products and my details do not seem as nice by then. So 3 because it works well- just watch where you use it !

Great when you have small gaps to fill
If you need a strong joint, but don't have the time or tools to make a completely tight fit, this glue works wonders. I've used it to make strong joints between plywood edges and hardwood for a table top, for dowel joints, and for screwed joints. The glue expands by about three times and will fill gaps up to about 1/32" with close to full strength, and larger gaps with less strength. One caution, as it dries, the glue foams up and you have to plan on chiselling off or power-sanding off the squeeze out. Also, you need to keep the joint under pressure for one to four hours before removing clamps. This is not a glue to use when you need the joint to set-up quickly, or when you will not be able to sand off the squeeze out. With that said, this glue makes strong joints with much less preparation than conventional glues. I use it whenever strength is critical. ... Read more

Reviews (1)

great product with an even better name
I think that this product is great it's sticking power is absolutely amazing. I love it. I try to find projects that me and my husband can do together just to use it. I would definetly recommend it to any one. ... Read more