Amazon.com Review

Since its invention by the ancient Egyptians, the pocket holejoint has become a favorite among modern framers and other woodworkersinterested in creating strong joints for their projects. The Kreg K2000ProPack pocket hole jig contains everything you'll need to createperfect pocket holes, all from a trusted leader in the field known forproviding quality products. This kit is designed to help woodworkersplace pocket holes in their ideal location on any surface, regardless ofthickness, and even includes project plans and detailed instructions foruse. It's a must for any woodworker who either uses pocket hole jointsor has an interest in trying them. --Carl Thress ... Read more

Features

• Comes in a molded carrying case
• Horizontally spaces holes at 9/16, 7/8, and 1-7/16 inches on center
• Three positions to center holes in 1/2-, 3/4-, and1-1/2-inch thick material
• Two wing supports hold wider material
• Step block and riser block included for 1/2-inch and 1-1/2-inch material

Reviews (37)

This Kreg kit is one slick setup.
I've used my Kreg kit for several months now. It sure makes a difference in the speed of assembly. I whipped up a router table in no time and a lot of other projects besides. Works great on dimensional lumber too. Used it to make the 2X4 framing for a utility building addition as well as the framing for flooring in my aluminum boat. It's great having everything all packed in the carrying case ready to go. Setup is a snap and sure cuts down on the need for lots of clamps.

Holing Wonder!
I bought one of these to make face frames for some kitchen cabinets, but it has gotten a considerable workout in addition to the original project. The kit is very complete and comes in a nice plastic case. There are actually two jigs - the large one that you will need to mount on a board and the small, one hole "Mini Jig" that just gets clamped wherever you need it.

The large jig with the wings is the most useful. It has a built-in clamp to hold the wood securely against the drilling jig. There are three separate guide holes that allow for different spacing of holes. The "wings" are two separate parts that do not connect to the main jig. You will have to screw all three pieces to a piece of 3/4" plywood to get the most use out of it. That leaves a big vacancy in the case if you leave it setup, as I do, but that makes a good place to store additional screws.

The "Mini Jig" is great for those large panels that can't be mounted in the main jig. Just clamp it where you want it and drill the holes.

Depth adjustment is easy with the guide on the "wings." Just lay the special bit in the groove with the bit's shoulder aligned with the thickness of the material you are screwing to. Slide the stop collar on the bit shaft until it is against the side of the wing and tighten. You can't make an error. It does pay to check the collar every now and then to make sure it has not slipped. If you over drill, you will be going through the face side of your work with the screws.

I use this in place of biscuits in many cases, but don't throw out the biscuit joiner yet! On long, edge-joined pieces, it is helpful to throw in a few biscuits for alignment between the screws, not gluing them if you want to make it a "knock-down" cabinet.

I used to think I was pretty slick with a drill, cutting an occasional pocket hole freehand. That just is not as precise or repeatable as the results you will get with this jig. I would highly recommend adding this outfit to your shop - you will get more and better results! Oh, and do order some extra screws - you WILL have a use for them!

Kreg Pro Pack is great!
I recently purchased the Kreg K2000 Pro Pack. I had been using a generic pocket hole jig, and after setting up and using my new Kreg jig I can say there is no comparison. The Kreg jig is a slick set up. It made it easy to drill clean pocket holes. Also, use the Kreg screws. The Kreg screws easily bore into the wood, and so far I've had no problem with wood splitting. In fact a friend who is a carpenter was impressed when I showed him a project and he learned that I didn't have to drill a pilot hole in the receiving piece of oak. He was impressed that there was no splitting. This seems to be a really nice tool set.

Save time and labor
Don't be afraid to give this joint maker a try, you will be suprised how fast and easy you can make perfect joints. I just built an entire set of kitchen cabinets using the kreg pro, and it more than paid for itself in time and labor and frustration. Very easy to use. Great tool.

great joint maker
This is great tool for making easy joints, I have used them in outdoor tables where I don't want the joints to show. I am finding more and more uses for this product every day. The set up is easy and it really make a strong joint in seconds.
I have just completed a pie safe and the inside joints were made even beter with the plugs. They seem to disapear after sanding and finishing. ... Read more

Features

• Large tough nails resist breaking
• Centered connecting rails give good working balance
• Transfers directly from jamb to door with hinges on either side of door
• No straight edges, measuring tools or calculations required
• Disassembles without changing hinge size or door thickness adjustments

Reviews (11)

I won't buy from Bosch again!
We have a high end millwork shop and often build large quantites of custom doors and jambs. I recently purchased a Delux Bosch hinge template kit to speed up production of our doors. The template itself is a very good product and works well, however the kit arrived with a router bushing and bit to mortise 1/4" radius hinges. Before opening our millwork shop, I was a commercial/residential contractor for 27 years and have not seen a 1/4" radius hinge for 20 years. The standard hinge for door manufacturers is a 5/8" hinge. I spent 4 hours going through the enclosed instruction manual and calling local tool suppliers trying to find out what I needed to cut a 5/8" radius hinge. There is no mention whatsoever in the instruction manual refrencing what is needed to cut different radiuses. The next day I spent another 3 hours on the internet and Bosch's website trying to determine what I needed to cut a 5/8" radius hinge and while Bosch does reference different parts for the template by part number they do not tell you what the purpose of these parts are. I contacted one of the largest Bosch distributors in the southeast and drove 2 1/2 hrs to their place of business. After working with 2 salemen and the owner for 3 1/2 hours we finally determined what was needed to cut a 5/8" radius hinge with this template. The solution to this problem was for me to purchase a fourth router( Bosch of course), a bushing and bit at an additional cost of $285.00. Including the time and travel expense I lost trying to mortise 47 doors, I could paid for 35% of the cost of a production mortiser. To make this short, I will not purchase another Bosch Tool until they drastically change their, instruction manuals, website and cataloging of their tools. I CAN"T AFFORD THEM!!!!!!!
Steve Gibson
Tropical Hardwoods, LLC

Best adjustable template kit
The Bosch hinge template kit is the best of all the numerous metal adjustable templates available. Bosch bought the tool from Stanley tools decades ago, and Stanley bought it from someone else years before that. It is an old design that is yet to be improved upon by anyone else. Although the initial price seems high compared to lesser capable templates like the Porter cable, you will make that money back very quickly in time saved and problems avoided.

I use this tool for retrofit and for new construction and no longer carry fixed templates anymore. For new construction, you simply spend a few minutes assembling and configuring the template and then it is good to go for days of door hanging. It takes just moments to switch the hinge size for different door thicknesses, a time saver compared to fetching another full size template that could be lost in a different part of the jobsite. Retrofitting new doors in old jambs is cake as you can easily match the template to the old hinge layout for perfect mortises that fit the first time.

The rails have holes that engage ball bearings on the template frames. This prevents the hinge layout from changing if you should drop the tool on end. If you have ever used the PC template and bumped it while transferring from the door to the jamb, you know what a problem it is too have the template spacing change on you.

On room additions, it is easy to match the hinge layout for the new doors and jambs to match the old doors due to the adjustability of the Bosch template (this is important in situations where the new doors are close to old doors and the homeowner would notice the hinges not lining up). The kit comes with 2 top guides of different lengths that accomodate any top hinge spacing you will find in the field. The rails allow infinite adjustment so you can quickly match any hinge layout.

One thing the PC has over the bosch is that edge stops retract. This is only an issue when remortising the hinge gaines on an old jamb that has casing and caulking too close to the jamb edge. On the Bosch, the fixed edge stops can sometimes hit the caulking or casing and prevent the template sections from laying completely flat. On the PC, the stops can retract to counteract this problem, but overall the Bosch is significantly more accurate in retrofit situations.

When you first get your new Bosch template kit, you need to fine tune the hinge length stops. From the factory, they are not correct. Two screws loosen and allow an adjustable plate to be moved into the correct position. A quick run on a 2x4 lets you check for perfection before you ever touch an expensive door.

As mentioned by others, the small metal case is much more user friendly than the extra long PC box, but it doesn't hold the 4 hinge conversion kit or the 3 hinge extended rail kit. What most guys do is buy an additional standard kit, and make custom wooden rails for 8 to 10 foot doors. This way you have 6 template sections instead of four, and you can theoretically have 2 guys hanging 6-8 doors for more production.

The nails are very strong, I have spares but haven't had a problem with breakage at all. In fact, you can order from Bosch any part you need and can get stuff shipped next day if the parts are in stock.

The jamb gauges only fit Timely or hollow metal frames, so you need to file them down to fit wood jambs for retrofit jobs. But there are other ways to match existing hinge layouts so I don't recommend the jamb gauges unless you like to order book doors for commercial jobs or do nothing but retrofit.

Like any metal template, when you hit it with the router bit, it gets nicked and the bit can get damaged. But the template sections completely disassemble so any damaged part can be replaced. More than once I forgot to put the template guide in the router and got some healthy gouges in the template. A call to Bosch and all was fixed. Usually, though, you will nick the sides or length adjustment plate and these are quickly fixed in the field. The sides can be "reversed" and the length stops can be filed flat and readjusted. The hinge size adjustment bar can be rotated to move the nick out of the way. Very reliable even when damaged!

This is a terrific professional tool for the professional door hanger. And it works with any router that has a 1/2" mortising bit and 5/8" template guide. It even works for 5/8" radius hinges with a 1 1/4" mortising bit and 1 3/8" template guide. A homeowner would not need this tool, and it is not efficient for hanging just 1 door.

This Bosch kit solves all of the problems
If you have ever hassled with trying to install hinges on a non pre-hung door, you are familiar with the challenge. Figuring out the proper layout of the hinges on the door. Trying to take a single templet and align it perfectly straight up in order to prevent an off angle hinge. Trying to mount that templet at exactly the correct amount of depth to get a uniform edge. Routing without a glitch, or even moreso hand scribing an edge, then chiseling a flat base. Even if all of that goes perfectly, then we have the challenge of transferring those settings to the jamb in order to hang the door. How do we close the door on the hinge and scribe out the edge of the hinge onto the jamb. Opening the jamb and laying the hinges on it kinda works, but then how do you keep the distance correct for the clearance of let's say 1/8 inch at the top of the door. In plain words using the door with the hinges mounted is a rough way of getting the job done.
What Bosch does with this kit, is give you three adjustable for hinge size templates for routing, that are attached, and once again adjustable. You can preset the distance between the hinges, and be sure that the templates will be perfectly upright. No off angles, which is all too often the case without this kit. Once you attach the entire apparatus, with the built in pins you rout away. Then you remove the kit from the door, attach it to the hinge jamb and rout away.
This is an all metal kit that should give you years of service.

So why not just buy pre-hung doors and not bother to deal with it? The problem is that in order to trim the jamb to the thickness of the wall, you have to remove it from the door, disassemble it, then run it through the table saw, then reattach it. Or, in the event of a wall thicker than the pre-hung jamb, having to live with a seam, or a very large molding to cover it. With this kit, you can buy doors that are not pre-hung, and buy jamb boards that are wider than the jamb, trim them to size on your saw, then assemble for installation. Additionally you might want to create your jamb out of something other than the standard pine.
My hat is off to the Bosch engineers for designing this one. A complicated job made simple. Highly recommended. This tool falls in the category of most favored tools. It solves all of the problems.

Expensive - but quickly pays for itself
I had 17 doors to hang and purchased this tool for the job. After a quick learning curve, I was able to hang 3 to 4 doors per hour and they fit perfectly every time. It's a well built and solid tool. My only complaint is the less than adequate instructions, but you'll figure it out soon enough.

Better than all the rest
I have to say that the Bosch hinge template is the best one on the market. I've used them all and this one is by far the one that you want, trust me I've used it for more than 10 years to hang custom doors. It's very easy to use and easy to modify for custom applications. No need to look or shop around, this is the one that you want. And we all know that Bosch makes great tools. ... Read more

Amazon.com Review

Sure, you could spend a day in your shop building your own tenoning jig. Or you could spend the day making furniture with this one. Your choice. We know what we'd choose, that's for sure. Delta's universal jig fits any table saw that has a 3/8-by-3/4-inch miter slot and adapts to right- or left-tilting arbors. You'll get top-quality craftsmanship with the microfine-thread adjustment knob, allowing you to adjust width-of-cut settings to a hair for the snuggest possible tenon fit. We particularly like Delta's redesign of the handle. Most tenoning jigs we've used have one handle, sometimes up too high to offer good control. But Delta's replaced that with two, positioned at the jig's base, just where we always thought they ought to be. Another good innovation is the thumbscrew that lets you quick-release the hold-down clamp support. As for accuracy, it's hard to do better than this. --Kris Jensen-Van Heste ... Read more

Features

• Adjustable 0-45 degree work piece support accommodates thicker, wider stock
• Universal, fits all table saws with a 3/8-inch by 3/4-inch miter slot
• Micro-fine-thread adjustment knob for precise width-of-cut setting capable of 4/1000"
• Two ergonomic handles designed fro excellent operator control ensuring the smoothest cuts
• Quick-release course thread with a push of the button for fast set up

Reviews (9)

Roughly Made Jig
I bought this after using the older model and was very disappointed in the quality of the castings and the hardware. The old one, which is still available at a lower price, is a better made piece of equipment. The "deluxe" version is sloppier in its movements and reminds me of the junk we used to see out of China several years ago. Of course the simple operations required of this jig may not require it to be sophisticated but its still disapointing. I sent it back and bought the cheaper one from Delta which works great and I like the handle placement better.

Acceptable value
This jig was purchased to be used on a late-model Unisaw, which it fits perfectly. It delivers very fine work. Many of these Chinese accessories have to be washed with solvent to remove the cosmolene, but that goes with the territory. The base had to be deburred, or it would scratch the table top, but I would expect to have to do that with an American-made tool nowadays. A few minor criticisms of the engineering: the jig will tilt, and as everyone has table saws with either tilting arbors or tilting tables, I question the utility of this feature, without which the tool would be much simpler---and presumably cheaper. There is a button which one pushes to disengage the female threads for the micrometer adjustment, making quick lateral movement possible. The spring which keeps the threads engaged is too weak, and using the micrometer in one direction is useless. What with inevitable backlash in such designs, I question the practicality of the micrometer. One of the handles is placed too close to the triangular knob which tightens the upper jig to the sled that rides on the saw table, making tightening clumsy. I wonder why Delta didn't just have the grand old tenoning attachment made in China, or else make this present design much simpler, and sell it for less than $60. Having said that, it does the job, rock solid, no chatter or slop. I would also very much like to see a guide rod with provision to read off the distance from the sawblade both inboard and outboard.

Hardware is of poor quality
The jig itself does the job just fine. The fine tuning is acceptable. However, I was only able to make around 50-60 tenons on this jig before the set screw which holds the turn handle on gave out. It stripped entirely too easily, despite the fact that I was using the correct sized allen wrench to adjust it. The set screw often didn't stay set, so I affixed the proper sized allen wrench directly to the jig with a magnet. So, now, I'll need to drill out the hole and put in a new set screw.

The method for affixing the turn handle to the jig is sheer folly. I've checked out the Jet tenoning jig and, as of about a year ago anyway, had a much superior design. If I had it to do over again, I would pick up the Jet or Powermatic.

The deficiencies in this jig remind me of the problems with Delta's mortiser (which I thankfully steered clear of after using it in a class and noting the many problems with how Delta botched the set screw adjustments on it).

Delta makes some great table saws, but some of their other tools aren't as highly rated in my book.

Delta 34-184 Tenoning Jig
I had the identical experience as Frank McKee, bum screws in the mitre bar. Delta shipped a replacement bar with set screws separate, no questions asked. I was up and running in a week and the jig performs as advertised.

Delta 34-184 Tenoning Jig
I bought the jig to speed the process of making tenons. For that purpose it does exactly what it says it will. The only reason I don't give it five stars is the quality of the screws used. When I went to adjust the miter bar two of the three hex screws stripped out, they are either very soft and of poor quality or put in with Loc Tight. One thing in favor of Delta. I contacted a local, California, factory service center. They have ordered the entire miter bar assembly and will send it to me to replace the current one. With the quick response for service it restores my faith in Delta. So far, I have had great luck with Delta Products... ... Read more

Features

• One-year warranty/30-day performance certification
• Powerful cutting action
• Mounts to a door in seconds
• Centers automatically
• Heavy-duty motor

Reviews (1)

PC 513 lock mortiser
If you are a finish carpenter, door/hardware installer, or door shop that does a lot of mortise lock prep, this is THE tool! Together with the PC 517 Lock Face Template, this stuff preps wood doors for mortise locks quickly and accurately.

Why only 4 stars?

One: Price; it's pretty spendy. Purchase both tools and you spent something like $.... The occasional mortise lock installer should stay away from this equipment unless you think it might grow into a Specialty Skill.

Two: Adjustability; Adjusting back and forth between different lock configurations can be a hassle until you figure out the learning curve. The markings on the frame for mortise height, and the stop rod for mortise depth, are "not that accurate;" takes a bit of time and practice to figure this thing out.

And this: You spend this much on a fine tool, you sure don't want to lug it around in the cardboard box it came in. Build a nice wood box, a place for everything and everything in it's place. Why PC has the nerve to sell this tool for so much money and not provide a decent storage box, even if it's blow-molded plastic, is a mystery to me. Sign of the times, I guess. ... Read more

Features

• Machined-tool construction with precision milled 90 degree faces on 5/8" cast iron aluminum base
• Handles stock to 24" wide and 1/2" to 1" thick
• Cam-type1-1/4" steel clamps, one-hand lever action
• Includes both 1/2" Half-Blind Templet and Adjustable Through Templet

Features

• Includes 1/2 inch diameter carbide bit with top bearing and storage case
• Accurately sets hinges in minutes with quick action clamps
• Max hinge capacity of 5 inch
• Maximum jamb thickness 1-3/4 inch
• Durable anodized extruded aluminum construction

Reviews (3)

Great Tool
Just bought just this month and the product looks fantastic. It looks solid and easy to use. You need to see it to believe it.

Hinge mate
Works well except that it will not lock down on 5" hinges.

hinge mate
well designed and easy to use. make sure to keep the instructions. ... Read more

Features

• 19 inches high by 13-5/8 inches wide by 22-5/8 inches deep; 6-inch tabletop height
• Semi-automatic machine creates the same round-sided hole as the Kreg Jig in a fraction of the time
• 3/4 horsepower pneumatic motor
• Features 1/2- to 1-1/2-inch material capacity and quick drill bit changes
• Entirely pneumatic powered drill motor and clamping cylinder for hands free clamping

Features

• Features a hollow recess on back of the jig
• A gate that covers the opening which locks the clamp on the jig
• Extension plate
• Lifetime Guarantee

Reviews (5)

Excellent Product/Easy to Use
I have been using the Kreg Pocket Jig for about eight years and have been totally satisfied. For cabinet construction, I generally use pocket screws in conjunction with biscuits. It may take a little longer, but the end result is perfect alignment and no clamping reqired.

Kreg Pocket Hole Jigs Number 1 across the board
I bought the Kreg Pocket Hole Pro Pack, which has all of the components on this set, plus the workpiece holder. You could make your own using a toggle clamp. What I wanted to share with you is that the Kreg Pocket Hole offerings made the number one spot across the board in the November 2003 issue of Better Homes and Gardens "Wood" magazine. Everything from the mini on through to the automated production machine were given the top ratings. It was a clean sweep for Kreg. They tested a lot of machines too. Some of the advantages are the flush edge joining to the workpiece prevented tearout. The case hardened steel guides didn't show wear or metal shavings. Easy to make or buy the premade plug holes out of wood. (Some were an odd shape, and wouldn't accept plugs very well)
Even though the body is made out of plastic, which is substantial and well done, the steel guides are the only thing the drill bit touches.
Pocket hole joinery is a nice addition to your arsenal. You will find yourself incorporating it more and more into your projects, and the Kreg system is the best. Highly recommended.

Quick, easy pocket holes
I just used this today for the first time to build a frame for a pirates chest for my 5 year olds' birthday party. Quick easy joints that looked great. Loved it.

A Great Tool for the Shop
I build cabinetry and prior to getting my Kreg I used a mix of T&G, dowels, and biscuits to join boards and frames together. For your basic furniture construction this device is simply amazing. Attach the jig to one face to be joined, run the special drill bit (included) down one or both fixed metal ferules, unclamp and use the Kreg screws to attach the two parts. I can now build furniture, test for fit in the shop, take it apart, apply finish and rebuild on site.

On the downside it leaves a rather gaping hole on one side of the joint so it is not the preferred method for joining boards that are visible on both sides. They sell wooden plugs (in different wood species), but I am not impressed with them as they take a lot of fiddling to get them in and flush. I also have not used it for joining boards into panels (table tops or cabinet sides) because I prefer an old school biscuit joint with good clamping technique for a flush surface.

However like I said earlier. This is a heck of a tool. It makes for speedy face frame joints and handles my ¾ inch plywood joints very easily. Plus I can literally build the cabinet piece by piece and take it apart to finish or move it. For the price, the rocket pockethole kit is a very good value. If you build cabinets or furniture, than this is a nice tool to have it your shop. (BTW: order extra screws - personally I find I use the 1 ¼ coarse thread screws on just about everything).

A wonderful alternative to biscuits
I bought one of these little jigs to see if pocket screw construction really was as great as the advertisements say- and I'm here to tell you it's even better. I'd used biscuits in the past to build cabinets, but pocket screws can be set up faster and require no clamping when gluing. The only downside is that pocket screws, unlike biscuits, aren't totally hidden from view- but the holes can be hidden in a lot of built in construction or filled with oak or maple plugs available from Kreg.

This little Kreg jig has a plastic body, but it's a very high density synthetic and should last a long time. The kit has everything you need to get started, including screws, but you'll probably want to get a bag of another 1000 if you plan on doing more than a few boxes.

If you're planning on gearing up for even limited production, or building an entire kitchen, consider getting the all-metal Kreg with built in clamp. For about twice the cost (once you buy the accesories already included with this jig) you'll have a unit than can be bench mounted and sets up in a couple of seconds. ... Read more

Features

• One year warranty/30 day performance certification
• Quick and easy professional joinery
• Precision milled face
• Cam-action clamps
• Handles a variety of projects

Reviews (1)

Easy to use!
I watched the video, went to my shop, set up my Dovertail machine and the only setting i had to change that the video suggested was the depth of the dovetail bit. The precision was incredible, and best yet repeatable! I love this machine, my wife just got me the variable spaced template (more on that later)! ... Read more

Features

• Full length locator with each templet section
• Guides router for professional results
• Adjustable for a variety of sizes and applications
• Allows perfect matching
• Spring-loaded nails

Reviews (8)

Dead on every time.
I bought this unit because of the great reputation Porter Cable has and was not disapointed. It is dead on accurate and well made, should last a lifetime. The only fault I could find with it was the manual, somewhat vaguely written. I used common sense and past experience and had no problems, though a beginner may have to read thru a couple of times.

Carpenter .... Trim
I've owned this same template for 20 yrs and can put it together and rout butts with my eyes closed if I had to ... I wore out 3 skill Butt Templates prior to that (still have one of those) and finally bought this one to last a lifetime ... I know nothing about the Bosch and do not need to as long as I have this Porter Cable Butt Template .

Hard to keep set
This template kit is roughly made. Not easy to keep set up for any length of time (screws loosen). Can be a knuckle scraper. Problem setting the center template the same for the flip flop on the jamb.
I would expect a tool of this type would be made of extruded Aluminum for better accuracy of measurment. I would pay more for such a tool. The price equals the quality on this one.
I have been a carpenter for 35 years, hinged a lot of doors in that time. Pre-hung doors are the choice of course, but sometimes you have to do them on site. This tool wouldn't be my first choice.

With the exception of....
My only gripe with this otherwise excellent template is the availability of the various sized jamb gauges that are necessary to transfer hinge locations from already prepared jamb to door, or vice-versa. I would think they would be included with the tool, but instead I've been having to literally hunt them down. The 4" gauge is not even available, that I can find. In fact, if anyone has a set (3) of the 4" gauge, let me know!
Otherwise, the Hinge Butt Template Kit is an excellent tool to have for anyone involved in the task of reto-fitting and hanging new doors. It has proved to be extremely useful to me.

Template kit
This tool is to hard to set up, and I can cut in a hinge just as fast with a wood chisel and sharp knife. If I had several doors to do at one time, then I think it is more practical to use ... Read more

Amazon.com Review

Tight mortise-and-tenon joinery is an irreplaceable ingredient of many woodworking projects, but cutting tenons accurately can be next to impossible without the aid of a good jig, like this one from Delta. This jig is made with the same quality of castings and precision machining found on Delta's top-of-the-line table saws, giving it the stability and accuracy we desire. We also appreciate its versatility and wide range of adjustment. While the jig is a perfect match for Delta's benchtop and contractor saws, the miter-slot bar can adjust to fit a number of other manufacturers' table saws as well. It can be used with both right- and left-tilt saws, although switching between the two setups does take some time and attention to detail. The jig can be adjusted from 90 to 45 degrees and has adjustable positive stops; of course, we recommend checking your adjustments with a good square and bevel gauge to make sure the stops are set correctly.

Getting your tenoning jig set up just right can require some patience, but once done, you'll get a big payoff in accurate tenons, and your projects will have the tightest possible joints. In our experience, few shop accessories will prove as invaluable to your woodworking as this solid tenoning jig from Delta. --Brian Trinen ... Read more

Features

• Fits left and right-tilting table saws with a 3/8-by-3/4 inch miter gauge groove
• Handles stock up to 3-1/4-inch thick
• Adjustable from 45 to 90 degrees for miters and angled cuts
• Extra-large crank handle for fast, firm clamping
• Full-grip feed handles for control and safety

Reviews (49)

Delta 34-183 Tenoning Jig-Worth the money
I purchased this jig in November and have used it quite a bit before writing this review. At first I was apprehensive about purchasing the jig because of some of the reviews that I read. After receiving it all of my concerns have been put to bed.
It did come packed in grease but I was ready for it and would rather put up with the grease than have a rusty casting. I had to disassemble the jig and reassemble because I have a Left Tilt Unisaw. The directions were clear and I had no trouble at all making the change over.
I had no problems getting a nice square, parallel to the blade, cut when running my first scrap piece through the saw. Adjustments were easy to make and easy to repeat. The knob to make fine adjustments works great and is easy to use.
I enjoy using this jig. It is exactly what I was looking for and I haven't been disappointed with it. The only things I would like to see changed would be the scale-its not to accurate and I am not over fond of the plastic handles and lockdowns. Other than these two items, I think the jig is a great addition to my shop

Perfect for Delta Table Saws
I borrowed this jig from a friend about a week ago. I just ordered one this afternoon. Delta must have made this jig for my table saw (Delta contractors saw). It fits my saw like a glove. When my friend got it, he came over to the sign shop I work at and showed me how they packed it in oil. He said "I'll never get this all off." I laughed and said that we'd have it off in less than a minute. I poured some xylol in a metal pale and put the jig down in it for about a minute, then pulled it back out and told him to wipe it off... Clean as a whistle. There's nothing wrong with this jig. it makes perfect tenons. It's easy to use. The oil comes right off if you use the right solvent. And if you own a Delta table saw, it works great. I've been buying Delta products for five years, and they have'nt let me down yet, and I'm hard to please. I've used this jig, and I'm telling you, if you want perfect tenons, and you're tired of other mickey mouse jigs, then buy this jig. Believe me, you'll be glad you did. Of course it helps if you know how to measure.

I got the "Lemon"
I Got The "Lemon"

Setup rating: ZERO
Performance rating: Five

I eagerly awaited the arrival of the jig and didn't anticipate any unusual problems other than cleaning off the trademark Delta shipping grease. Although I am patient, and tolerant of idiosyncracies, the problems I encountered far exceeded my typical resignation toward the mundane. I usually am not the guy who receives the "lemon", but I sure did this time.

This particular jig may have literally been submerged in grease and it took me nearly two hours to dig it out of every crack and corner.

The bottom of the jig (where it rides on the saw table) has geometric recesses which appear to have been machined to reduce overall weight. These machinings were never de-burred and the jig's first trip into the miter slot resulted in a lightly scratched table saw surface. An hour with the Dremel and a metal grinding attachment fixed the burrs on the base, but it still seems to ride roughly enough that I am not convinced that long-term use won't permanently damage the surface of my table saw.

Step A in the instructions went smoothly but step B brought my assembly to a grinding halt. Attempting to install the clamp assembly into the clamp arm I discovered that the threads in the clamp arm were never milled and I was turning the screw into a blank hole.

****
Three more hours of setup and modification to get it in working order and it's now ready to cut. Forty cents purchased a 3 1/2 inch bolt, nut, and washer to solve the missing thread problem, and using contact cement to attach a thin plastic sheet to the bottom of the jig solves the metal abrasion problem. Although being resourceful is perhaps the most enjoyable and fulfilling aspect of having a hobby, the amount of modification necessary to get this jig working was rather disproportionate compared to what one shoud expect from a company such as Delta.

*****

I have used the jig for cutting tenons and it works very well. The only tedious part is making repeated cuts with a piece of scrap to ensure your final cut fits perfectly in the mortise. Once that is done, all cuts are identical and will fit flawlessly.

Delta -183 gets a bad rap
I read the reviews and like some I was rather timid about my purchase. Grease was an issue but not a big deal. It fit my craftsman table like a glove. I didn't have a problem with parts, sanding, grinding, etc. etc. Easy to set up (after cleaning) works like a top. Very solid.

A tennoning dream
This jig puts them all to shame! This jig does exactly what was promised, accurately and quickly. It is extremely easy to set up. It also keeps it's settings. I mean, this thing is right on the money. I build furniture for a living. I needed something that would be easy to use, and also quick and accurate. This beautiful jig is a breeze to use. It requires a table saw that has a T-slot in the mitre gage groove. If you have a Delta 10" table saw or larger, than you already have what is required to use this fine piece of equipment.

It comes packed in grease to avoid rust. This is easily cleaned by setting it in a bucket of mineral spirits for about one minute. Pull it out, dry it off, and you're ready to go. This has to be one of the easiest and most accurate pieces of equipment that I have ever used. If you're an experienced woodworker, you will love this jig. The new yankee was right. THIS ONE IS THE BEST. Delta out did themselves on this one. I'd buy another one in a minute. ... Read more

Features

• Includes pocket cutting bit, pilot hole bit, square drive bit and two wrenches
• 13 amps
• 1/2-inch through 15/16-inch thickness capacity
• Cuts 3/8-inch pocket and drills 9/64-inch pilot hole
• Fast hand operated cycle less than 2 seconds

Reviews (1)

great product !
I build cabinets part time and was looking for a better, quicker way to make cabinet face frames when I saw this pocket cutter on a T.V. show. I ordered it and was very surprised at what the pocket cutter consisted of: a rigid metal box, a heavy duty clamp and two porter cable router motors to be mounted inside of the box. A trim router plunges into the wood for the screw pilot hole, and a standard 1.5 hp router motor plunges in at an angle to cut the pocket. It makes quick, tight joints, but is only for use on 15/16" to around 3/4" material. If you plan to do a lot of this tye of work, I highly recommend this product. ... Read more

Features

• Easy to use
• Spring loaded
• Perfect 90 degree square corners
• 3/8" long cutter edge

Reviews (12)

Extremely Handy Tool
This is one of those tools that is so simple, but makes such a big difference in the time and finished results of hanging doors, cutting in lock sets, etc. Well woth the money, no serious carpenter should be without one.

Corner chisel works great
After reading mixed reviews of the corner chisel I ordered one anyway. I am a contractor specializing in finish work and it seems like most of the door hardware I use lately is square cornered. The tool works good at cutting and it usually removes the chips at the same time. Sometimes you just have to lift the chips out of the corner after they are cut. The only drawback that I found was the striking surface is rounded and can cause the hammer so slip off after hitting it. But the corner gets chipped out anyway, (I just hit it with the flat side of my hammer). If I was doing production work I would probably modify it to give it a little bigger footprint for more stability, and a longer body for better grip, and a longer stike to keep the hammer away from your hand. Overall, for a pocket tool, it is well worth the cost. I wish that I had ordered one years ago.

It's almost too good to be true, but it is !
When I first looked at this I thought, "How can it know the exact corner?" But it does. When routing out a template guided area for example, leaving a rounded corner, you park this in the corner, one decent whack with the hammer, and to my surprise, a perfect corner. It is a very simple device. It's a 90 degree blade that slides along a very thin outer shell-guide.
No more chisel-chisel-chisel, and difficulty getting the exact angles. It works as advertised. Saves a lot of time, and does a superb job. Highly recommended.

No Gimmicks Here
If you've ever installed door hardware with square latches and latch plates in a house where all the doors arrive with radius mortising, you'll recall how much time you lost chiseling out every corner of every mortise. Buy this tool. It's cheap and simple to use and is definately not a gimmick.

Gimmicky Gim-Gaw Garbage
Spring action! Perfect corners! Sure, my first reaction to this corner chisel was, "what a neat little tool"; however, after a couple of uses this novelty item now resides at the bottom of one of my tool boxes - and I'm not missing it. I make doors for a living and routinely have to have to square out notches for hinges. The Porter-Cable 42234 Corner Chisel doesn't get my approval for the following reasons:

1. It is difficult to sharpen.
2. It doesn't sit in my hand comfortably and on several occasions slipped when I tapped it, thus screwing up my corner.
3. I've already got chisels that can do this job; why did I spend ($) on this? ... Read more

Features

• No test cuts, no wasted wood
• 15-inch precision-milled template
• Accepts wood from 1/8 to 3/4 inches thick
• Accepts unlimited widths and lengths
• Back-to-back model

Reviews (11)

Precision Dovetails made too dang easy.
I've been woodworking for over 20 years, and used to cut dovetails by hand. I looked at the jigs but was always put off by the high price and big manuals. I read a review on different jigs and the Keller was deemed the simplest to use. I bought it and could not be happier. It took me about 5 minutes to screw the jig to a backer board, and 10 minutes later I was putting together the first joint. It was perfect. My only regret is not buying this thing years ago. It's so simple, you don't even need to keep the booklet around, because there is nothing really to set up. Bit depth is not critical, you just set it a hair deeper than the wood thickness. I now can buzz through a whole project's dovetails faster than I used to chop out one side by hand, and they look better too. I'd be surprized if anyone was disappointed with this jig.

Easy to use. Easy to make thru & half-blind dovetails
I have this dovetail jig and it couldn't be easier to use or set up. The instructions are great. Some people prefer to us a solid backer block that requires planing. I have a planer, but used baltic birch plywood as it is more stable than solid stock.

I use my band saw to cut veneer and trim it to fit the front. This is essentially serves the same purpose as half-blind dovetails and it is even stronger. Also, if you can't cut your own veneer you can buy veneer. If you don't want to do that, you can always uses 1/2"-3/4" solid stock for "false fronts".

The price is right and from the box to perfect thru dovetails is less than one hour. You also use a bit with a bearing that is more accurate and consistent that other jigs that require collars.

Great buy and great results.

Wow! It's so easy to use!
I have never tried dovetail before and have always been intimidated by it. I ordered it from Amazon and came in a small well packed box. Instruction didn't look impressive but I just followed it step by step and found out it is very to make tight (just right) dovetails. 18" length for the backer block does not have to be that accurate. The width should be roughly 2.25" but when I used plywood it is slightly less in thickness but it does not matter. No need to be intimidated!

change the block
This is a great jig. The backing block thickness dimension needs an adjustment in order to make hardwood joints that aren't too tight, however - read other reviews. The 3 1/2" depth isn't critical; neither is the 18" length. I suggest milling the block out of poplar, soft maple, or (like I did) salvaged yellow pine in order to get a thickness of 2 5/16" (not 2 1/4", as instructed). Then set the scribed line BACK exactly 1/16" by making your own scribe on the dovetail side and set your screws in. This will allow your pins to be slightly thinner than they would be with the instructed measurements. Then play with the router bit depths between 1/32" and 1/16" extra (beyond your stock thickness and the 1/2" thickness of the jig) to fine tune (a deeper dovetail bit will make the joint tighter). I had perfect joints that just needed a little sanding after only 15 minutes! These were the first dovetail joints I've ever cut in my life (and only the second time I'd ever used a router)!

Impressive through dovetails with ease.
I consider myself an intermediate woodworker and have been putting off immersing myself into learning to hand-cut dovetails. When considering the time it takes to become proficient at cutting them manually, it can be intimidating. I bought this jig for its advertised simplicity and ease of setup. The low cost is quite attractive as well. It is on the mark for ease of setup. The only issue is setting up the backing block. I can see that being an issue if you do not have a thickness planer. The manual says that you can use 3 pieces of 3/4" ply but I like the idea of a hardwood backing block. After I milled up the block and screwed the jig in place, I had a perfect dovetail joint in less than 10 minutes. I would recommend this jig to anyone w/ a small to medium shop (or home enthusiast). ... Read more

Features

• Lightweight for easy transporting
• Large 7-7/8" aluminum-oxide wheel for efficient sharpening
• Quiet motor and 560 rpm for a fine finish
• Sharpens planer blades (knives) up to 15-3/4" long
• Water feed for cooling blades

Reviews (6)

The best of the sharpeners
I have had a Makita 9820-2 for over 6 years. I would not try to sharpen my planer blades or chisels with any thing else. You can never burn the blade. I lost my 9820 in the Isabell Hurricane when it was submerged for 4 days in salt water. I bought a new one. To the person who complained about not having a coarse wheel for the 9820-- there is a 60 grit, 7 inch wheel made for it. check Makita 741074-9, at $44.99 free shipping. How can you go wrong or isn't 60 grit coarse enough?

don't buy this
It works fine, but I can't locate any other grinding wheels for it. I need a coarser wheel to grind nicks out of chisels, etc. My bench grinder will do that, but it overheats the steel. The cooling as the whole point of the very pricey wet grinder. What is the use of buying an expensive new machine if you can't get the necessary accessories for it? I've only had it one year, now the price has dropped [dramatically] - perhaps they're phasing this thing out.

I would not recommend buying this. Find a machine which is supported by the dealer and the manufacturer.

Makita 9820-2 Blade Sharpener
I love this thing! I got mine and right away put my Dewalt planer blades to the test, I got a very sharp flat straight edge in minutes after reading through the directions once. I then took the guide off and sharpend my chisels and gouges after which I sharpened every knife I could find. The 1000 grit stone removes metal at just the right speed. After I get a good edge I turn it off and just hone the blades on the wheel while its not moving to put a finishing touch on the edge. I plan to buy the 6000 grit stone for hunting knifes and chisels. The water system takes practice and the plastic skirt around the stone that keeps water from spraying around has to be up or you get a mess. Its so easy to set up it saves a lot of time over using hand stones. I also plan to get the chisel guide to make getting a perfectly straight edge easyer to acheive

Send that high speed bench grinder to the garden tool shed.
Man was I fed up with burning my good chisels & plane irons with that 3600 RPM bench grinder! Those things were designed for sharpening lawn mower blades & axes not fine woodworking tools. Although this tool is primarily designed for sharpening jointer & planer knives it also excels at sharpening chisels & plane irons with absolutely no fear of burning the edge. I set it up & sharpened an old block plane iron to a perfectly flat square bevel. After a couple of passes on a Japanese waterstone I had a razor sharp edge. I also prefer the flat as opposed to the hollow ground bevel. The edge holds up longer and stays sharper.
I haven't yet used the Makita to sharpen my jointer blades but I'm confident it will do a good job. I am saving my money for the coarse stone for those nasty nicks. If you enjoy a well tuned sharp tool as much as I do you gotta get yourself one of these!

As advertised
I received my Makita 9820-2 promptly and unpacked it. Assembly was minimal. Instructions for its use were sketchy in parts but it is a fairly straight forward tool. The learning curve is short and my results met my expectations. My planer and jointer blades are sharper than when I had them done professionally. I would recommend getting a courser stone if you have to do anything but hone your blades. Overall I would say that this product performed as advertised. ... Read more

Amazon.com

Kreg's self-tapping screws were designed for its famous pocket-hole joinery, but that's not all they're good for. Kreg's self-tapping auger point eliminates time-consuming pre-drilling, and these screws are made from the highest quality steel, case-hardened and coated with a dri-lube finish. That means less driving torque for you. This coarse-thread screw has a larger thread diameter and provides greater holding power when driving a screw into soft material such as plywood, particle board, MDF, melamine and pine. The washer head offers a great surface area to seat the screw firmly and helps prevent overdriving. They're on the spendy side, but the quality is worth it.--Kris Jensen-Van Heste ... Read more

Features

• Softwood to softwood
• 1000 pack

Reviews (2)

You need the coarse AND the fine screws
I had read a review that stated they were using the fine screws for everything. I found that when using soft pine, and more importantly into plywood, the fine screws were on the edge of getting the job done. All you had to do was remove one of the screws and reinsert it, to see what I mean. In my opinion getting the coarse screws, and the fine screws is essential.
These screws have a very sharp tip on them, and the shaft thickness is thin as well. Consequently you do not need to pre-drill unless you are using them close to an edge of a soft wood. In that condition the thin edge can bulge a little.
The great thing about pocket hole screws is their convenience, and strength especially when used in pairs. You will find your self using these more and more often. I even use them on straight joinery by drilling with a forstner bit to create a straight pocket, then go right in with the pocket hole screws. Admittedly by using the kreg jig, and getting an angled installation is stronger than going in straight. The angle prevents tugging on just the threads, but rather creates strength by having to pull the angled shaft through the wood. That is a lot stronger except in the rare condition of pressure being exerted at the direct angle of insertion-not likely.
Their is some difference of opinion as to whether it is advisable to use glue in conjunction with pocket hole screws. One camp states that since the screws hold so well when done in pairs, that you do not need to use glue. Additionally, that gives you the option of being able to remove the joint, in the event you need to resize for example, or disassemble for shipping. Additionally their argument states that since the pocket hole screw system holds so tight, any glue that is put in the seam will be squeezed out.
The other camp feels that for security purposes, gluing and screwing is the way to go. In the book, "Building Kitchen Cabinets" by Udo Schmidt (an excellent book by the way) the author states, "The expense of a pocket hole-drilling jig will easily be repaid in the time you save assembling face frames.
So if you are contemplating getting the Kreg jig assembly, it comes highly recommended. If you are thinking about buying the screws, I recommend you getting the coarse and fine screws in the 1 1/4" format, since they are useful for joining 3/4" wood. Additionally you should get the screw kit with a variety of different length screws for those times when you are dealing with different stock thickness.
In a recent magazine doing a run off of different manufacturers pocket hole jigs, Kreg took first place in every size jig-first place across the board. Hope this helps.

Self Boaring!
These screws work really good with Kreg's drill bit with pilot hole tip (3/8" diameter). It is self boaring so it doesn't split the wood. The coarse one works for soft wood like pine and plywood. Use fine screws for hard wood. Wish these screws were a little cheaper. ... Read more

Features

• Compact unit
• For mortising for 4 hinges on 7 ft.to 9 ft. doors
• Includes 3 link rails for 7 feet-8 feet doors
• 3 link rails for 8 feet-9 feet doors and 1 extra frame section
• Aligns the strike plate on the jamb to exact set back

Features

• E-Z glide transfer arm
• Large 4' x 8', 5/4" thick melamine surface
• One piece, tubular steel frame
• Retractable squaring fence for oversize frames
• Four high-quality clamping cylinders (90 psi minimum)

Features

• Allows you to drill two holes parallel to one another
• Self contained--nothing gets out of alignment
• Large steel clamping screw tightens the tool like a vice
• Includes six removable screw-in brushings
• Two of each : 1/4-, 5/16-, and 3/8-inch

Reviews (5)

Dowl-It 2500
I have had this for one day and tried multiple types of joints to decide whether I keep it or not.
The design is very clever and eliminates the need for a bunch of spacers to accommodate various thicknesses. The manufacturing quality is also good but not excellent.
As far as actual performance, I have encountered the same problem as another reviewer. The joints were not perfectly flushed no matter what orientation I used the jig(I made the joints from the same stock of wood).
After doing some measurements with my caliper, I have noticed that the exis of holes were not parallel to the edge of the wood.
The flushing problem is about .02" which is very small but noticable by any finger, so the degree of your satisfaction depends on your expectations. In my case, I ended up returning it and ordered a Dowelmax.

A good (but not excellent) tool
I have used this tool for about 6 months and it is generally useful for general doweling. I have not had any problems with "play" described in one of the reviews. It is a precise tool.

Drawbacks are as follows. First, I bought this thinking you could perform parallel doweling with the provided inserts. However, it is not set up to do this with 3/8 dowels, and you end up doing two separate doweling procedures. The tool is also somewhat slow to use in terms of assessing the placement on the workpiece, tightening it, drilling and removing the jig.

However, I would buy it again. The negatives I describe about are mostly generic to doweling as a form of joinery. The tool is well made and will probably be useful indefinitely.

Dowl-it 2500 model (Self Centering Guide)
This item is substantial in appearance and heft. However, in usage, it loses it's charm when you put your pieces of wood together and discover they are not flush as expected. I thought that the culprit was me, but it was the tool. After several attempts in re-doing the doweling, results were the same. When I began to examine the tool I noticed that the center guide had about 1/16" inch of play after it was securely clamped. That small amount is enough to defeat it's intended purpose of excellent fit. I figured out an inexpensive modification that corrected the problem. It involved using two set-screws that held the center guide in place, and can be adjusted to fit any thickness of wood. Why didn't the manufacturer dope this out?
Right now, anyone who uses it will get horrible results until it is modified.

Slick Little Item!
This little unit makes drilling nice, straight dowels a breeze. Just mark your center on the side of the stock, line it up with the line on the jig, clamp it on, set your drill depth, and go! Doesn't get much easier than this. I'm curious to see how long the inserts last. Even if they don't last forever, I'll replace them or just get a new one. A must for your shop, if you use dowels at all.

Dowl-It Jig
This jig makes it very simple to center dowl holes in the ends of boards. Just mark the location on the end, clamp it on and drill. The holes are perfectly centered. I used the jig to drill holes in the stretchers for a workbench I built - this was much easier and quicker than using a drill press. ... Read more

Features

• Self storing box
• Self-tapping
• # 2 Square drive
• Case hardened
• Appox 750 Assorted screws