Amazon.com Review

Instead of throwing away old, dull bits, give them a checkup with the Drill Doctor and extend their life. Although drill-bit sharpening systems often fail to live up to our expectations, we're here to bear witness for the truth of the Drill Doctor's claims: it really does sharpen old bits in just a couple of minutes. The 750SP (also known as the Professional) works on conventional, split-point, and masonry bits from 3/32 to 3/4 inches in size. If you don't plan on sharpening anything larger than 1/2-inch bits, we recommend getting the 500SP instead; it's basically the same machine, minus the cost of the 3/4-inch chuck that comes with this model. Both models--the 500SP and the Professional 750SP--allow you to choose between a 118- and 135-degree sharpening angle. Operation is fairly simple, but to make sure no one has trouble figuring it out, the Drill Doctor comes with a how-to video. Anyone who frequently wears down drill bits is going to appreciate the savings this handy machine can offer. Using sharp bits instead of dull ones also increases the life of your drill, because sharper bits require less work to make the same hole. We only wish we'd found the Drill Doctor sooner. --Brian Trinen ... Read more

Features

• Sharpens conventional point, split point, and masonry drill bit at 118- or 135-degree angles
• Two chucks accept 3/32- to 1/2-inch and 1/2- to 3/4-inch bit shafts
• Long-lasting Diamond wheel sharpens carbide, high-speed steel, standard, cobalt, and more
• Comes with how-to video

Reviews (33)

Drill Doctor DD750PK Precision Drill Bit Sharpene
There are many good things about this product. When I called tech support with a problem (chuck sticking), I got a human being with a knowledgable answer (loosen a few overtorqued screws) in a matter of minutes. On standard drill bits, it works very well.

However, I got it mostly to sharpen hex-base drill bits, as I use these drill bits with a quick-change chuck all the time. And I basically destroyed several bits (well, they were dull anyway) finding out that the chuck supplied with this unit simply can't get a proper grip on hex-base drill bits. They will be out of alignment, which means it won't work, at all. You just grind off random bits of your drill bit at random angles, resulting in a useless bit. Well, I _was_ able to sharpen a few of the bigger hex bits, but the 1/16", 1/8", and 3/16" bits were trashed.

So for my main use--sharpening hex-base bits--this fails pretty badly. If I'd known this, I wouldn't have gotten it. (Of course none of the marketing information or tech support information mentions this--if they did, they might lose some sales.) So I'll keep it, but quite disappointed. And no, tech support didn't have any suggestions for how to fix the problem.

So, if you want to sharpen small hex bits, give this a pass. If you don't use hex bits, it is a good deal. And the video they supply is excellent for teaching you how to use it.

Your mileage may vary.

The BEST Drill Sharpening System
Over the years I have collected hundreds of drill bits that served me well when new. But with each project I found myself looking for a sharp bit to complete the task. I needed a repeatable way to sharpen my drill bits. After extensive research and product reviews I purchased the Drill Doctor 750. It did EVERYTHING it promised. It sharpened both small and large bits, it removed all nicks and restored the cuting edge perfectly. The actual process is simple and quick. The video gives good instructions, but practice makes perfect, and I actually enjoyed sharpening all my old bits. I highly recommend the Drill Doctor. It delivers on its promise every time.

Pays for itself quickly
Glad I FINALLY bought one!
With the price of drill bits rising every day this baby will pay for itself quickly. Sharpens bit as good as or better than new. If you think you doing a good job sharpening bits on a bench grinder, you'll be suprised. Don't know how the hail I ever got along without one of these. Will never have to use a dull bit again. An absolute NECESSITY for anyone working with steel. I would suggest getting an extra wheel upon purchase because once you sharpen about 250 of your dead/dull bits after it arrives, you'll most likely need a new wheel.

The Good, the bad, and the great
I just received my Drill Doctor 750SPK and was surprised to find that it came with a carrying case which was listed by Amazon.com as an accessory. The first time I used the Drill Doctor it performed perfectly and I was inclined to sharpen even drills that I had previously considered sharp. For normal drill sharpening, I would rate it as 5-star. The only problem I had was with split tips. The drill holder does not slide smoothly in and out of the guide. It requires unnecessay force as far as I am concerned, however with extra effort I can sharpen split tips adequately. I will keep the unit since most of my sharpening is for standard tips. When and if I want to do many split tips, I will bore the guide out a little and and install a "pop-out" spring to move the tip back off the grinding wheel.

Incidently, one reviewer said that he received screwdriver tips instead of drills with his unit. I did not find that to be the case. I received the drills.

NO MORE DULL Excuses!!
This is product is everything good all have said about it. Order fulfill by Amazon - excellent! Unit well packed, handy carry case is superb.
Set up and use - I watched the video 1 & 1 1/2 times. Getting the drill set up properly is the whole equation - and is easy. I have sharpened both angle configurations, and split a few points just to see how easy it is to do. SNAP!
I didn't realize how bad a shape I was in until I cleaned up every bit I owned. I mostly work wood and don't demand a lot of twist drills here, but a few metal things came up and I realized I had a sour batch of drills. Problems solved. Everyone needs one of these....or maybe I keep it a secret and make a few $$ fixing up my neighbors tools. It would almost be like stealing. Maybe I'll do demo's and sell units. ... Read more

Features

• One full year parts and labor warranty, 30 day risk free performance guarantee
• Environmentally friendly method of paint removal
• Reversible carbide blades
• Safety clutch
• Low vibration reduces fatigue

Reviews (9)

Paid for itself the first job
This paint remover does the job; takes the paint off down to the wood and it never gums up with paint. I used it to strip paint from a fifty year old house with many layers of paint. It took me 4 days to strip the whole house. I estimate it would have taken twice as long to scrape the house by hand, and I would not have done nearly as good a job. I dulled four of the carbide blades to strip the whole house. The tool is light enough to operate with one hand. However, there are some tricks to using this tool:

- You have to wear goggles, (not just safety glasses) earplugs, a dust mask, gloves, and I'd recommend coveralls. This tool throws a lot of dust and small chips. I did not use a vacuum because I felt the hose would slow me down too much, but a vacuum should make the job much cleaner.

- Watch out for nails. You have to set the nails before you strip the paint. Just give the nails a wack before stripping. If you do snag a nail, it will either shave off the top or rip it out of the board. It's something you don't want to do too often.

The tool is well made except for the little doors covering the rabbet blades; I busted one off the first day. It has a nice long and flexible cord. Pet peeve: the switch turns off too easily.

It's not perfect, it's just better than any other tool for stripping paint. And, it'll pay for itself on the first job.

Professional Painters Need This Tool
I just spent the last two days using this paint stripper and I gotta tell you this is an amazing tool. It will shave (no pun intended) hours off the time it takes to strip paint from a house. I was worried about the price, but it has paid for itself already. I am ripping paint off of cedar siding in 1/4 of the time it usually takes. The depth-of-cut adjustment lets me adapt to different paint millage, and it is really easy to use. If you have read other reviews, you will know that the little plastic doors that protect the 90, 180 and 270 degree cutters are really flimsy and WILL pop off, but it is still the best paint stripping tool I have come across. Make sure that you set any nail heads that may be in your way, because this machine will rip and warp any nail haead it comes in contact with. You will need ear protection, and the 3M full face mask is a must when working in warm climates. Try this tool. It will save you so much time and so much hassel. If you don't like it, send it back.

Fast is the right word
I bought this tool about a year ago, and has you've read in the other reviews it's all true. I took down some 6" redwood siding, 4" fir and pine boards to the bare wood in no time. A word of caution on softer woods wider than 3", take your time and get use to the machine. It will gouge on the edge at times, depending... how your reach is to the work. You either even it up with a pass from the oppisite side, sand with a 6" inch orbital down to finer grit, or patch and sand. I used it on latex paints so far and gumming was not a problem, plus good life from each edge of the cutting bits (4)... if you counter sink any nails. Attching my shopvac made less to clean up! Also rough grain wood texture will be smooth flat when done, you may do some light sand blasting to match the texture or stick with chem/citrus strippers. Goggles recomened.

Worth every penny
I bought this tool to take about 17 layers of paint off the cedar siding of my house. It works great! My choices were the Metabo, Porter Cable and The Paint Shaver (which was by far the most expensive). The Metabo was the only tool of the three not listed on eBay the day I purchased it.

This tool does a great job on siding and even facia and window casings. You need to be careful on softer wood like pine with this tool. It can easily take off the paint as well as a hefty slice of wood.

Be sure to purchase plenty of extra blades if you are taking off lots of old hardened paint. They will get dull, however you can turn the blades 180 degrees and use the other side before you have to replace them.

This tool is extremely loud. Be sure you have good ear protection. Also, it throws chips everywhere at high velocity. So good goggles and a dust mask or respirator will save you some agony.

Overall, for the money this is a great tool. I highly recommend it over manual scraping or liquid/paste strippers.

Savings outweigh expense
I purchased the Metabo paint reomover about 2 months ago. I used it to remove about 6 layers of paint from the fascia boards on my house. This tool works amazingly well and is very easy to use. When all of the paint was removed, i gave the fascia boards a quick once over with a random orbit sander. When finished, the fascia boards looked brand new. One coat of primer and two top coats of paint and presto, my home looks great. Doing a thorough job in the first place prevents you from having to return and "fix" it in a couple of years.
Initially I was very skeptical of how this tool would work as well as the seemingly steep cost. I wondered how a hand held power tool the size of an angle grinder could cost sooo much. In the end, I feel this tool easily saved me money because a paint contractor would probably charge me a small fortune to take all of my homes fascia boards down to bare wood before repainting.
My home was built after paint containing lead was banned so I opted not to use the dust collection built into this tool. One gripe is that I broke one of the small tabs on one of the plastic blade covers within 2-3 hours of use. The plastic covers should be made more durable considering the cost of this tool.
If you are removing paint on a significant amount of wood or on a home with very much wood siding, I would suggest you purchase the extra 10 piece blade set ).
Overall, I am very pleased with my purchase of this tool. The tool was delivered in about 4-5 working days (as stated). ... Read more

Amazon.com Review

Instead of throwing away old, dull bits, give them a checkup with the Drill Doctor and extend their life. Although drill-bit sharpening systems often fail to live up to our expectations, we're here to bear witness for the truth of the Drill Doctor's claims: it really does sharpen old bits in just a couple of minutes. The 500SP (also known as the Tradesman) works on conventional, split-point, and masonry bits. It can sharpen bits from 3/32 to 1/2 inches in size, and though the machine will also work for 3/4-inch bits, we'd recommend buying the Professional model for doctoring these big boys, as it comes with a special chuck the 500SP lacks. Both models--the 500SP and the Professional 750SP--allow you to choose between a 118- and 135-degree sharpening angle. Operation is fairly simple, but to make sure no one has trouble figuring it out, the Drill Doctor comes with a how-to video. Anyone who frequently wears down drill bits is going to appreciate the savings this handy machine can offer. Using sharp bits instead of dull ones also increases the life of your drill, because sharper bits require less work to make the same hole. We only wish we'd found the Drill Doctor sooner. --Brian Trinen ... Read more

Features

• Carrying Case, How-to Video
• Easily sharpens to 118- or 135-degree points
• Sharpens masonry points
• Maintenance-free
• Precalibrated drill bit length setting

Reviews (15)

Drill bit savior
I used to throw out bits when they were dull. Never again! This tool is really simple to set up and use. I hate to think about the time I've wasted using dull bits. It takes just seconds to touch up a bit. My friends now ask me to sharpen their bits. I wish I had had a Drill Doctor ten years ago.

Nothing else comes close
I don't know how many broken or dull bits I have sitting around because up to now it has been one big pain in neck to resharpen them. I usually wind up buying a whole pack (10) of the most popular sizes I use and set them aside after they get dull. I have several different drill sharpeners; you know the type one would use with a grinder. Problem is they have never worked well for me, it seems like it's always hit or miss and most of the time "miss seems to prevail" and setting the jig up for sharpening the bits was always a chore. So it was with some trepidation I bought the Drill Doctor" especially because it was a lot more than I had ever paid for any other sharpener. But this is truly a case of "you get what you pay for...sometimes). But after reading the reviews I bit the bullet and ordered one. Gotta tell ya...I am now one happy camper when it comes to sharpening my old dull bits. It works just like the provided video shows, not just once but each and every time! Anyone who can't sharpen a bit properly with the Drill Doctor probably shouldn't be handling a power tool in the first place. I mean it is virtually moron proof. Loosely calculating the number of useless drill bits I have accumulated over the years I figure this tool will more than pay for itself. Looking for the right tool to sharpen your drill bits?...Buy the Drill Doctor, I promise you will never look back.
Oh by the way, a little background on me. I am a retired General Contractor and an active hobbyist. I own 6 cordless drills, 3 corded drills, and 2 drill presses (what can I say I have a weakness for good tools!) so I guess it would be fair to say I have had some experience working with drills and drill bits.

The Handyman's Money Saver
This is a great investment to help save money from buying extra drill bits when all they need is re-sharpened. I wish I had this product when I first started using drill bits. It comes with an instruction book & a VCR tape which helps to learn how to sharpen drill bits in almost no time. Just think of all the extra trips to the store this product will save you from?
If you happen to break a drill bit, just use this to put on another new tip. This model sharpens either of the 2 major angles for steel bits, plus split points and also mason bits.

NEWS
I have used this product in the past and found it to be very useful. I'm very discouraged in hearing that the new machines will be manufactured in China. I guess this is another example of companies concerned with profit margins and not quality. I will stock up on replacement wheels now to avoid future disappointments.

Seems to do what it says.
Used my drill doctor for the first time yesterday, seems to be pretty straight forward. Only a couple of things I could see after using it that would greatly improve it. First the electrical cord should be made of rubber, mine in my unheated shop, in MN, is like a slinky toy and came unplugged a couple of times. Next a light in the depth and alighning hole, my eyes aren't what they used to be and my shop isn't bright for close work during the waning hours of the day. Other than these two suggestions it seems to work ok and is going to be handy to have around. ... Read more

Features

• 19 inches high by 13-5/8 inches wide by 22-5/8 inches deep; 6-inch tabletop height
• Semi-automatic machine creates the same round-sided hole as the Kreg Jig in a fraction of the time
• 3/4 horsepower pneumatic motor
• Features 1/2- to 1-1/2-inch material capacity and quick drill bit changes
• Entirely pneumatic powered drill motor and clamping cylinder for hands free clamping

Amazon.com Review

Removing layers of old paint from siding is never fun or easy, but Porter-Cable's power paint remover goes a long way toward making the task more tolerable--and a lot quicker. The tool uses a thin metal grinding disc spun between two easily adjustable guide rollers, so the user can remove paint without damaging the underlying wood. We found the tool relatively easy and comfortable to work with--certainly less tiring than trying to remove the same amount of paint using a regular sander. It does take a little time to get the guides adjusted right, but, once done, the tool really does work wonders. Adjusting one of the guides a little further in than the other, so paint is removed with only one edge of the disc, seemed to work quickest while producing the least amount of paint clogging on the disc. We also like that all adjustments to the power paint remover can be made without the use of additional tools and can be performed quickly. While this is a highly effective tool for its purpose, there are a couple of concerns to keep in mind. First, to avoid grinding the siding, make sure you have the guide adjustment set correctly before you go too far with the tool. Second, because this is basically a grinder, it will leave some small spin marks in the siding, and you'll generally have to go back over the wood with a random orbital sander to get a perfectly smooth finish. We also recommend getting a few extra discs, as they will clog, and it's nice to have a fresh one handy while the clogged disc soaks in solvents. In the end, though, this tool is a huge improvement over more common paint removal methods, like using a regular sander or scraping with a heat gun and putty knife. --Brian Trinen ... Read more

Features

• One year warranty/30 day performance certification
• Efficient material removal
• Easy disc changes
• Helical gearing
• Well balanced design

Reviews (26)

Porter Cable Power Paint Remover
After spending hours trying to remove layers on our 124 year old farm house, and after reading the reviews I purchased the Porter Cable Power Paint Remover. I used it today for the first time. Last weekend I spent six hours on one four sided pillar on the front porch. The process involved scraping and sanding with a high speed random orbital sander with 80 grit disk. This evening I used the Power Paint Remover on the next piller (total of five). The process took a total of about 15 minutes to have the entire pillar down to bear wood, unreal. I'm looking forward to tackling the rest of the house. I am sure that this unit will pay for itself just in the cost of the lumber that I was going to buy to replace old molding just because the paint was too thick and cracked. Now I am sure that I'll be able to just go down to the bear wood with no time or effort.

I had to stop shortly after starting to use this unit and run down to the hardware store to purchase a good quality dual filtered respirator mask, the unit puts out the removed paint big time in a very fine dusk. A good shop vac is needed to clean up afterwards. Safety goggles are a must. I love it. A big 5 STARS +++++

Power Paint Remover saves the day.....
Restoring a 1875 Victorian has a true challenge. The outside of our house is lap siding (1"x8") and has not painted for over 20 years. After using everthing possible to remove the old finish including sanding, scraping and sand blasting, I tried the Porter Cable 7403P Power Paint. After a little work and finally reading the limited directions, I was able to remove numerous layers of paint with minimal effort. The final finish was perfect to apply a good primer coat before the final finish. The Power Paint Remover saved the day. Things to consider using the 7403P. 1)If sanding lead based paint, wear proper breathing equipment. 2)Keep the rpm's of the 7403P low so that the paint does not melt on the sanding disk, which is difficult at to remove. 3)Take your time..the 7403P is slightly heavy and working over your head is difficult. This is componded if you are working off a ladder.

With a little work, the 7403P is a very versitale piece of equipment and can handle a wide range of projects for both the professional and the amature.

Also consider....
I haven't used this tool, okay? I have needed to remove multiple layers of paint from window sills and a garage door before, and am looking to do so soon again for a different house.
I am hoping to find a tool that can do paint removal better than what I've used so far. I thought I would post my experience here for others to learn from.
I've used a torch, heat gun, belt sander, finishing sander, and an air-powered dual-action disc sander. I just wanted to post that if you want light weight, the air-powered dual-action sander isn't bad. Use 50-grit sticky discs and plenty of compressed air (6hp and 230V is probably better. I used 4hp/120V and paused to allow the compressor to catch up.)
The torch makes for larger, less windblown rubbish, but is somewhat slower and when I got annoyed sometimes scorched the underlying wood.

Rented it, now want it
ONLY PROBLEM is the weight!
I have been removing the paint from my 2 story, cedar shingled house with a 3 inch belt sander, part time since May (now August), with time off for an injury and the heat. Chemicals were too costly, ineffective and I did not want bad residue. I got 1 side done, some of another side, but the edge about 1 inch below each course was still left. Turning the sander sideways to get that area, killed belts FAST! The dust kicked up by the belt sander was terrible, going everywhere!!!!

I rented the 7403 for 4 hours. My results: tired arms, more paint removed and less wood eaten than the belt sander. This thing WORKS VERY WELL!!! It takes getting used to. So did the belt sander. It works MUCH FASTER (2 to 3 times) The rollers prevent gouging. It works better on flatter, harder surfaces. (My warped shingles are not as warped anymore) The areas where paint was sticking well to the wood went almost as fast with this as the areas with the paint flaking off.

I also found that it created MUCH LESS dust, that settled more directly to the ground. Belt sanding dust included wood that made it drift much further. Dust from the 7403, in a light breeze, was found to fly straight about 5 feet at ground level, drifting very little. The dust is denser. The particles fly faster off the work, ABSOLUTELY necessitating mask and goggles! Glasses were not enough at all.

Some paint buildup on the middle of the metal grinding pad, was easily removed when hot by fingers(with sander unplugged). The metal grinding pad distributes the heat evenly. It is cooler than belt sanding.

The belt sander will help to quickly touch up the light circular marks, once my skills are improved. There appear to be ways to adjust it to reduce the marks and/or making them go with the grain while maximizing the paint removal.

I am looking forward to impressing my friends and family with my new set of muscles! Big arm builder at 9+ pounds. I have to put this into my budget to finish by winter.

Critical Instructions for use!!!
This machine works but is heavy, like other reviewers said. Myself and my coworker are each 6 foot tall men in good condition. We can barely put in 6 hours a day with the tool and that includes two half hour breaks to allow for muscles to stop spasming.
BUT--if used correctly, this tool does remove paint. It is slow, paint dust goes everywhere, and you must wear a respirator mask and a face shield.
Contrary to the instructions included with the tool--I found that the "cutting" side (leading edge) of the grinder needs to be set to about 1/16 inch lower than the grinding disc and the back side (trailing edge) needs to be about 1/16 of an inch TALLER than the total depth of the paint you are removing. In my case I am removing approximately 1/8 inch of paint (typical for an 80 year old house). Therefore the trailing edge of the grinder needs to be set at about 3/16 higher than the disc surface. The measurements are made by laying a straight edge (I use a square) across the disc and raising and lowering the black rails to the appropiate height.
Plan on using an inconspicious place on your house and practicing for about 2 or 3 hours until you get it right. Don't give up. My first day was very frustrating. Lots of clogging. At first I could only use the tool for about 10 seconds before it totally gummed up. Uggh. But with practice, clogging (gumming) is actually quite minimal when you find the right "angle of attack" for your application. Gumming usually occurs when you hold the grinder in one place too long or try to cut too deeply in one pass. You can't expect to realistically remove more than about 1/64 of an inch per pass, maybe even as little as 1/128 of an inch per pass. This equates to about 4-6 passes, sometimes up to 10 passes for severly cupped and warped wood. But this type of use allows for almost constant grinding with very little gumming. When the tool does gum up use a small, wooden-handled ice-pick to "pop" the gum chunks off of the grinding disc. A cleaning session takes about 1-2 minutes or even less. An occaissonal brushing with a wire brush helps prevent re-gumming on paint covered, problem spots on the disc. This techinique works so well that I only change the disc when the teeth wear down and stop cutting effectively (4-8 hours of use, depending). I have only soaked the discs in mineral spirits one time and generally find it unneccessary.
Beware--this tool pulvarizes the paint into a fine powder that goes everywhere. You will need ridiculous amounts of plastic drop cloths and bricks to hold them in place. Then you must sweep the powder at the end of each day. The amount that you collect is astounding. You can expect to collect about 10-20 gallons of paint powder from an average, 3BR/2Bath, one level home. This must be done for both legal and ethical reasons. Would you actually dump 10-20 gallons of lead and enamel paint into your yard?
In closing--this tool works great. It is a bear to use. You must use scaffolding. It is slow. Expect about three weeks of all day work to get your old house scraped and ready to prime. Buy lots of discs, about 10 for an average size house. Use only the 24 grit as the discs wear out and you need all the cutting power you can get. But beware as a new 24 grit disc cuts viciously and leaves severe swirl marks. But after about 10 minutes of use it wears down to a managable level.
If you can afford it--replace your siding. New poplar siding is about 15 cents a foot in the US. Materials for an average home would cost about $4,000. Plus lots of labor. Vinyl siding is usually a poor choice. It costs $5,000, looks fake, and causes wierd moisture issues between the vinyl and the old siding.
But if you, like me, have little money and lots of time--this is the tool for you. ... Read more

Features

• Easy to clean, easy to maintain, rapid mixing time - hassle free
• Heavy-duty - tough and durable 3.5 cubic foot capacity-polyethylene drum
• Easy to assemble in 30 minutes or less, no greasing necessary
• Weighing just 94 pounds, BigCat is portable and easy to store
• 1/3 hp thermal protected motor with push button restart

Features

• Two-year limited warranty on machines, parts, and accessories
• 230 volt, single phase, reversing motor for safe, efficient operation
• 4 spring-loaded, rubber feed rollers provide a positive grip on the workpiece
• Eight speeds from 6.5 to 180 feet per minute to match the application
• Adjusts vertically and horizontally for a variety of uses

Reviews (1)

Beware, This Thing is BIG
I really didn't realize how big this thing was until I saw the boxes it came in.... This is not really a portable feeder, if you want to use it on your table saw or jointer, you'll have to disassemble it as it weighs about 150 lbs.... It has one of the widest speed ranges on the market (6.5 - 108 fpm) and the four rollers come in handy. The 1hp motor is plenty strong to climb cut. The various linkages will take some getting used to but I managed to figure out all possible combinations. It is a worthy addition to any shaper for safety's sake. Just keep in mind the size of it! ... Read more

Features

• Includes pocket cutting bit, pilot hole bit, square drive bit and two wrenches
• 13 amps
• 1/2-inch through 15/16-inch thickness capacity
• Cuts 3/8-inch pocket and drills 9/64-inch pilot hole
• Fast hand operated cycle less than 2 seconds

Reviews (1)

great product !
I build cabinets part time and was looking for a better, quicker way to make cabinet face frames when I saw this pocket cutter on a T.V. show. I ordered it and was very surprised at what the pocket cutter consisted of: a rigid metal box, a heavy duty clamp and two porter cable router motors to be mounted inside of the box. A trim router plunges into the wood for the screw pilot hole, and a standard 1.5 hp router motor plunges in at an angle to cut the pocket. It makes quick, tight joints, but is only for use on 15/16" to around 3/4" material. If you plan to do a lot of this tye of work, I highly recommend this product. ... Read more

Features

• Executes log cuts, compound angles, bandsaw cuts and more
• Works with all 7 1/4 inch & 8 1/4 inch worm drive saws
• Footplate & built in site ensures glide management
• Vertical blade allows smooth, exact, square cuts
• Will cut angles up to 45 degrees

Reviews (3)

Great plan poorly designed
I have a great collection of tools but this was one I regretted buying... It was a poorly designed setup. the first clue was that the main attacnment bolt (that comes in kit)that holds the chain spocket to the saw motor shaft. had damaged threads and you can't use the saw without that bolt...can you say Q.A or Q.C ? The beam saw once it was attached and working was not really centered with the Milwalkee worn drive saw shaft,which was bought new with this Prazi beam saw(it was to be a dedicated combo unit)The beam saw would operate with a sort of concentric motion around the center of saw shaft.
The saw kept loosing up locked down saw parts, bolts would back out of the Prazi unit.. I was not impressed with this tool but then again maybe I'm just a picky General Building Contractor.

Beam cutter not compatible with DeWalt DW378G
Although this product is advertised as working with "ANY 7 1/4" Worm Drive Saw" I discovered the blade guard of the DeWalt DW378G prevented the installation of the Beam Cutter. Upon talking with the manufacturer I found they were aware of the problem and had no plans to modify the product as they would have to change the head casting. They also pointed out that the DeWalt model was a hypoid drive and not a worm drive.

timber frame necessity
Recently bought the beam cutter from Tool Crib to use on old barn restoration. It cross cuts timbers and rips them with ease. Some roughness due to the chain style cut but more than satisfactory for frame work. Speeds up the job 300%. Am now using it to restore a 300 year old home. ... Read more

Product Description

Solid state design and Miller's reliable technology pack a ton of performance into the portable, 49 pound Spectrum 375 plasma cutter. This versatile power source adapts to the shop or work site by operating on either 115 or 230 volt AC power. This machine can cut 1/2 inch mild steel with a stand off, and can drag cut 3/8 inch mild steel. With new features such as the Pilot Arc Controller, Heavy-duty work clamp, and Ergonomic ICE-27C torch, the Spectrum 375 CutMate is the clear winner in its class. ... Read more

Features

• Drag Cut Rated: 3/8 in...w/Standoff
• Increased Line Voltage Compensation regulates input power to a fixed value
• Dual input voltage located in back of units allows either 115 or 230 VAC
• Starts without high-frequency so it will not interfere with controls or computers.
• Easy-to-connect, built-in gas/air filter and regulator with extra protection.

Features

• Preset automatic postflow timer protects tungsten tip, workpiece and torch
• Upgraded circuitry gives you finer TIG output adjustment with the remote foot or fingertip control
• AC output for superior aluminum welding, DC output for mild and stainless steel
• Four-position polarity and range selector switch offers two AC current ranges, DC electrode for TIG, and DC electrode for stick
• Unique "flow-through" shielding gas TIG torch connection allows removal of torch without tools

Reviews (2)

great deal
This is the best welder for the do-it your self kinda person,works great aluminum,stainless,mild steel, all welded easily with some practice. great for any kinda welding needed also does stick for heavier gauge metal. this is a great welder!! would buy another!!

The Rolls Royce of Welders
This fine piece of equipment gives you the widest possible ranges for almost any type of welding. For thicker, heavier welding requirements this welder supplies the output needed to do the job well, but can also accomadate finer more delicate pieces such as decorative ornamentation. It is a pleasure to use and can make even a so-so operator look great. ... Read more

Features

• Fits Makita 5007NB, 5007NA, 5007NK, and DeWALT DW360, DW357, DW358, DW361, DW359, and DW362 saws
• Will cut angles up to 45 degrees and 12-inch cutting capacity
• Vertical blade allows smooth, exact, square cuts
• Footplate & built in site ensures glide manageability
• Executes miters, stairs, arches, log cuts, and more

Reviews (6)

MORE TROUBLE THAN IT'S WORTH
I got it in record time with cheap shipping and the price was great too. I bolted it to a new Skil mag 7 1/4 wormdrive saw. The mag is not light by any means but it shook badly. After dismantling and reassembling no less than 10 times I determined the part that bolts on where the blade usually is was .010 loose. Fortunatly I had my vernier caliper stuck in there with the socket set, allen wrenches and a set of feeler guages now minus the .005 which is cut and wrapped around the bolt to take up the slop. Ah, smoothe running. Now don't forget to stop and oil the thing every couple minutes and check the chain that is about to fall off. Oh, the adjuster/ chain tensioner is useless, and, keep the work area free of all wood chips so you can find all the bolts that continue to fall out even after they have been secured with thread locking compound. I had to remove the safety bar for the plunge cut I was doing and you could really impare/and or/ improve your love life. Prazi would do well with an electric chainsaw fitted with a plate similar to a circular saw. But, I'm no expert, I've only been doing this for 30 years. Anybody want to buy a Prazi Beam Cutter... cheap?

The Prazi -- good saw.
I was skeptical when I ordered this saw from Amazon a few weeks ago. BTW, Amazon has the best price on this, and appears to be the only way you can buy the PR2000 on the West Coast, lumberyards only seem to carry the worm saw version.
OK, the blade looks strong, its heavy and appears to be good quality. We have been using this to cut stair stringers out of 2x PT and it works great. By setting up guides, we accurately cut 6 - 2x12's at a time and they all come out the same in about the same time it takes to cut one. It saves a lot of time. The downside is that it makes a rough cut, very comparable to what a chain saw would do -- cause this is a chain saw for your circular saw. Therefore, you can not use this for open stairs or any finish work.
The saw is fairly accurate and easy to control, though as another reviewer said, you should use extra caution with this blade cause it could do some damage.
Overall, we have been very impressed, it is certainly worth the money.

Not a Miracle but a God Send
The Prazi beam cutter is not a miracle tool. It won't give you ideal results without any effort or skill on the part of the operator but it is a valuable piece of equipment that can cut a beam easier and better than most alternative ways to go about the job.

I bought the Prazi beam cutter to attach to my old Milwaukee worm drive saw. It arrived complete and took about 25 minutes to install. If the instructions had been easier to interpret, the installation would have gone smoother. Never the less, if you are the type of person who is at the point of carefully cutting large beams in your building career, you will be able to figure out how to install this tool onto your worm drive saw, no sweat. The only major problem I had was the fact that the older Milwaukee saws do not come equipped with a blade lock button. In order to tighten the beam cutter properly, you have to be able to lock your motor shaft down. I ended up opening my oil filler hole in the gear housing and jamming a hardened steel pin into the drive gear. This worked well but I felt that I could have sheared off the pin with just a bit more torque.

Starting the saw surprised me because I expected an out-of-control chain saw feel to it but instead I was pleased with the speed and overall stability. I typically have been cutting 8 inch spruce beams. I always nail or clamp a fence to the beam to guide the saw. This allows me to concentrate on pushing the saw without worrying where it is going. Crosscuts (6 to 7 seconds per inch on my 8" beams) seem to take less effort than rips as I will often find myself pushing the saw hard on a long rip to keep things moving. The cuts are sometimes hard work -but a breeze compared to any work with a handsaw on the same piece of wood. Again, the Prazi beam cutter is not a miracle tool: you still have to keep it sharp and oiled, you have to make sure your saw's plate is at 90 degrees to the blade. I draw a line where I anticipate the blade will enter the wood and then, after a few moments cutting, verify that the blade entered the wood at the angle I desired. You may have to shim under your plate to achieve the desired results but I find that at the bottom of an 8 inch beam, the blade usually enters the wood within an eighth of an inch of my target. When I am careful I can get the far end of the blade within a sixteenth. Once the cut is underway, the blade hold fairly true to a plane and does not wander from the top to the bottom of a cut as is typical of a reciprocating saw in a deep cut.

The resulting cut is chain-saw smooth. That is to say that it is a bit bumpy and yet consistent. My blade creates ridges and valleys about a sixteenth of an inch high and wide across the cut. It can easily be smoothed with a few passes of either a power plane or a block plane which will produce a very respectable finish. There is no way to get as good a cut with a regular chain saw. It just jumps around too much and the cutting angle is usually inconsistent. I know this first hand.

By and large, when I need to cut a beam I use the Prazi beam cutter. I will not go back to any of the hand tools I used or even the "cut both sides half way with a circular saw" method because the results I get with the beam cutter are better. Not perfect, and not effortless but better and faster. Bottom line: if you need to cut beams, buy it. The price is right. So it may not be a miracle tool but it is somewhat of a God send.

Other notes: You must remember that your converted saw is no longer the safe worm drive circular saw it once was. There is no blade guard that automatically sweeps down every time you finish a cut. The saw is long and can easily slice through a saw horse, work boot or thigh should one get in its path. Cuts must be planned more carefully and the setup should be stable and accessible. This is a different tool. Take some time to evaluate your safety before using it. Secondly, after you install the beam cutter, you'll be thinking about getting a new worm drive saw so you can leave the beam cutter on your old saw. Finally, when you pull this puppy out of your tool box be prepared because a lot of people on the job site are going to jump back and say "Whoa, what is that thing?"

Tom Sadowski
sadowski@tidewater.net
11/23/2002

don't rip cut
I purchased the PRAZI PR2000 Beam Cutter for the expressed purpose of ripping 8' x 8" x 8" western red cedar beams down to 7" x 7" and for saddle notching the top of the beams to accept a 4" x 6" lintel. I found the PR2000 did a fine job on cross cuts but was not suitable for the end grain rip cuts. The tool became very difficult to control and hold on line and the tear-out is completely unacceptable. I am sure there are applications where this tool shines but for my saddle cuts and ripping applications in this particular material (Western Red Cedar) it receives a failing grade from me.

Prazi beam cutter
We saw the Prazi beam cutter on tv & ordered one. My builder used it to cut 8x8 pressure treated pine beams on our porch. It cut them like butter. We were quite impressed. The only drawback is that we had to buy a new saw & since we live in a remote area we had trouble finding one that would work. ... Read more

Product Description

Duty cycle: 20% @180 amps. Amp control dial provides infinite output adjustment. Integrated thermal overload circuit & breaker for added protection. Built-in storage for rods, cords, helmet and accessories. (Electrode containers not included). Quick-connect dense plugs for easy removal and storage of cords. Multi-position cart allows the welder to be placed vertically or horizontally for easy access to controls, 230V single-phase welder easily welds thick steel. 225 amp AC maximum output. Infinite shunt control offers more precise adjustment when matching welder heat to metal thickness. Integrated cart for greater portability and convenience. Includes a starter pack of stick electrodes, chipping hammer/brush, and protective face shield. 5 year manufacturer's warranty. ... Read more

Features

• Amp control dial provides infinite output adjustment
• Built-in storage for rods, cords, helmet and accessories (electrode containers not included)
• Multi-position cart allows the welder to be placed vertically or horizontally for easy access to controls
• Integrated thermal overload circuit and breaker for added protection

Features

• Fast-action hole saws feature new progressive tooth technology for fast and accurate cuts
• Matrix II teeth are manufactured with 8 percent cobalt for high performance in hard materials
• One mandrel accepts all hole saw sizes; no need for multiple mandrels and adapters

Reviews (1)

Excellent design and value
If you don't want to spend over $250 for a set of carbide hole saws, then this is as good as it gets at a fraction of a carbide set's price. The best feature about this Bosch set is the terrific quick-connect mandrel system. The hole saws, regardless of size, snaps in and out of the mandrel easily -- no tightening or screwing needed. The saws are sharp. I used the set to install locksets in two metal-clad wood doors without breaking into a sweat. Highly recommended. ... Read more

Features

• Includes 2 batteries and charger
• Powerful 12-Volt Ni-MH batteries for longer run time
• Truly "portable" for those smaller jobs or hard to reach spots
• 46-7/8" flexible shaft vibrates at 12,500 VPM to produce a consistent finish on concrete footings and walls
• Protective cover over switch and battery to prevent contamination

Features

• User guide and How To Video included
• User replacable diamond sharpening wheel
• Sharpens from 3/32" to 1/2" standard twist bits
• Sharpens Carbide, Cobalt, Tin-Coated and Masonry bits
• User friendly and easy to use

Features

• Ergonomically-designed controls, intuitive, and easy to reach
• 12.5 Amps, 120-1,100°F
• LED temperature indicator for precise control of temperature
• Infinite temperature range and blower speeds provides precise control of temperature and blower speed according to the needs of the job
• Cool air setting for cooling tool and for no-heat applications, adds versatility

Reviews (3)

Great but no attachments!
This is one fine tool, but what are those people at Bosch thinking. For the amount you pay, they could at least throw in a few attachments. I bought this because I wanted the versatility of Temperature control. It would be even more versatile with the attachments which seem to be hard to find.

Very Good Heat Gun
Gun works very well. It would be better if you could get the accessories as the different applications require different heat. I have not been able to locate any of access. the Spreader(HG010), Deflector (HG020), Reflector(HG030) or the concentrator(HG040). IF you can, I think you will be satisfied.

Controllable heat gun
The Bosch 1943 is a pleasure to use. Normally, the temperature of the output of heat guns is a guess resulting in over or underheating. This gun has LEDs that indicate the heat of the output. The gun reaches full temperature in approximately 60 seconds and cools in approximately 10 seconds. The air volume is appropriate for most tasks but the option of higher volume would be appreciated. The gun is very quiet and light.

I've used other Bosch, Milwaukie, Skill and Black & Decker guns. This one is clearly the best. ... Read more

Features

• Includes spoon reflector for soldering pipes
• Variable heat control 100 to 1000 degrees
• Built-in stand for easy cool down
• Includes scraper for stripping paint and varnish
• Includes glass protector for protecting windows

Features

• Multi-position diaphragm carburetor; quick-Access air filter
• 73cc power cutter with 14-inch blade (20mm arbor)
• Superior vibration dampening system
• Internal electronic microprocessor ignition
• Five-stage , large capacity air filter system

Features

• 2-nozzles, 18 additional glue sticks
• Industrial performance
• Auto safety shutoff
• Dual heater for high capacity
• Temperature control

Reviews (7)

DOES NOT WORK!
This heavy hot-melt glue-gun user was thrilled when she opened her new Stanley GR-100 christmas gift anticipating it would vastly improve her speed and gluing finesse; alas, the trigger on it is a great deal tougher to pull than my .38 (no mean feat - perhaps manufacturer wants you to carefully reflect upon the consequences of wanton gluing . . . )!!!! rendering it impossible for me to use at all! Gifter purchased it from off-beaten-track store and we never had time to exchange or get $$$ back for - save yourself a lousy experience and buy something else from someone easy to return to (as is in my experience Amazon[.com]).

READY SET DON'T GO
GREAT GUN WITH ONE BIG PROBLEM - LIKE MOST GLUE GUNS IT TAKES FOREVER TO HEAT UP TO WORKING TEMP. BUT UNLIKE MOST GUNS THIS ONE HAS A UNUSED TIME SAFETY SHUTOFF FEATURE. SOOOO - IF YOU DON'T GET BACK TO YOU R GUN FAST ENOUGH YOU HAVE TO START THE PROCESS ALL OVER AGAIN.

TOO SPENDY
The first one of these I had the trigger broke.I exchanged it for another, so far so good.This gun is well made and I was sure glad to see a heavy duty glue gun atlast.And hats off to stanley for such a cool looking tool.It is comfortable in the hand and clearly well designed.But the price well...... It's just too much.I've heard the trigger malfunction is a common problem. Maybe stanley has worked that bug out.I havent had any problems with my replacement gun.This baby sure puts out the glue volume and heats up real quick. The dual temp is a nice feature also. the auto shut off takes some getting used to but it will extend the life of the gun.I do recommend this tool to anyone who needs mass amounts of glue in one shot,otherwise shop around you may find something more suitable and less pricey

No problems, No issues, little pricey
This is a fine glue gun. Acurate and very useful. The saftey feature can be a little frustrating if you don't plan ahead and layout your work before starting. (no real problem, but unexpected)

I'm happy with everything but the price.

"Contractor Grade" Misleading
While the words "Contractor Grade" are misleading, this glue gun is "Top of the Line" for the serious hobbiest, although not intended for the Home Building Industry. Keeping in mind that this gun shuts off in approximately 15 minutes after trigger activation, I had no problems with trigger malfunctioning. Forcing trigger on cold glue stick, will cause problems with most all guns. My wife and I have used this gun, everyday for the past week and it has performed flawlessly. We

highly recommend it for the serious and skilled hobbiest. The extra extended tips and dual heat ranges are extremely handy and useful. ... Read more