Amazon.com Review

This may be the most powerful router you'll ever own. Its3-1/4-horsepower, 15 amp motor makes quick work of anything you canfeed it. I expected it to tear out of my hands at startup, but for itsheft, it has an amazingly soft start at every speed: 10,000, 13,000,16,000, 19,000, and 21,000 rpm. This kind of power doesn't come withoutsome noise, so be sure to wear hearing protection. The handles arecomfortable and offer a secure grip, but at 17-1/2 pounds this is aheavier unit than most routers. The plunge depth range is 3 inches, andthere's no doubt this guy can handle it. The ball bearings are 100percent sealed, and a six-position depth-stop turret is a nice touch.It takes 1/2-inch shanks, so it could double as a shaper in a smallershop. Here's another nice plus: a cool auto-release collet system thatends stuck bits--no more wrench-tapping and pleading! It's a beauty ofa machine for heavy routing or production use. It won't disappoint you.--Kris Jensen-Van Heste ... Read more

Features

• Smooth plunge mechanism with fully enclosed springs
• Soft start for smooth performance
• 5 speed 15-amp motor maintains constant speed under load
• Aluminum motor housing prevents heat build-up
• Auto-release collets

Reviews (13)

Super workhorse!!!
This is the most powerful router I have ever used. As a dedicated hobbyist I wanted a router to use with my Incra Jig to make boxes. I originally bought the Bosch 2 HP and tried to make one cut and packed it up and returned to get this PC. The difference in power is amazing when cutting oak and walnut. You will need the adjustment knob accessory to make raising and lowering easier in your table,(I also removed the plunge spring handle to make it easier to adjust). It is very large and heavy so to use it for regular routing I believe would be cumbersome on lighter work. The screws that mount the sole plate are hefty and up to the task. If you need power this fits the bill.

Not the best choice
This is a fine router of its type. The variable speed and soft start features make it work beautifully. The plunge lock is conveniently located and easy to use. Unless you are routing dados on a well supported surface, it's weight and power pretty much requires table mounting. It is too hard to control doing edges. The table mounting is where the shortcomings are noticed. The weight will cause a normal MDF router table to sag fairly quickly if it's left in place, so make sure you mount it on a removeable plate; and remove it when not in use. I mounted a Router Raizer on mine to allow height adjustment from above, but in either case it won't plunge enough to allow me to change bits from the top of the table without modification to the (hardened) wrenches. I think a better choice would be the fixed-based version (PC 7518) used with a JoinTech Master Lift Pro or JessEm Mast-R-Lift(not the Rout-R-Lift).

Strongest most durable router money can buy
We have three at work. Talk about work horse. We even us it to route 3/4" ply and 5/4" lumber, over and over. Our newest is three years old, and besides the electric cable no work has been done to any of them. They do 1/8" coves to flush triming 5/4 to steel, even aluminium and they don't skip a beat. We push ours beyound any limit any designer of the tool had eve thought it would be used and it has with stood. If you want a router that can handle anything then buy this one.

Made for the long run
It's a Porter Cable, isn't it? I'm picky about the tools I buy, I try to buy the very best on my budget, but I haven't had any Porter Cable tool in my hands that wasn't a good one. Made in America, and that still means something to me.

First off, this isn't made for handheld use if you plan on doing a lot of freehand work. Get a smaller, say 1 1/2 to 2 1/4 HP for that. I bought the plunge instead of the fixed base just in case I needed one in a pinch. At 21 pounds and with all the torque of a small diesel engine, it's somewhat of a chore to handle with any precision. I mounted mine on a router table and trust me, it will cut through anything you throw at it with ease. If you run large panel raising bits like I do, make sure you get the 7539 (variable speed) instead of the 7538. It will run these better at a slower speed. When you start up a 3 1/4" bit it sounds like a helocpter is hovering overhead. Much better and safer at 10 to 13000 RPM. Since I had already invested lots of $$$ in router bits, mounting this on a router table only made sense to me.

These are the industry standard, expensive but worth it. If you don't mind paying a little extra, this should last the average woodworker a lifetime.

Almost as good as having a shaper
I have had this router for well over five years now and really put it through its paces. The power is incredible with even the largest of bits. You can take those long half-inch diameter upcut spiral bits and plunge inch-and-a-half deep mortises in solid oak in one pass if you are so inclinded. I don't always use it in a router table because I have only had one router in the past. It is on the heavy side for hand held uses, but the soft start keeps your firmly in control. The only thing lacking is a micro-adjustment for height. An indication of how great this particular model router was made is its longevity over the years as a hallmark Porter Cable product. ... Read more

Features

• Complete with case, pins, oil, coupler, and wrenches
• Shoots 23 gauge pin nails 1/2-inch to 1-inch in length
• Automatically adjusts to length of pin nail - no manual adjustment necessary
• Contoured, padded handle for comfort and control
• Excellent for crafts, intricate work, and hold down for gluing applications

Reviews (8)

NOT a nail gun, it's a pinner
On commercially made frame and panel doors you will notice two tiny little holes (that have been filled) on the back side of each joint. Even old dogs like me can learn a new trick once and awhile, and this struck me as a brilliant way of NOT being forced to wait for glue to set during the assembly process of frame and panel doors. My last project had 82 frame and panel doors and finished panels, and even gluing up two at a time in one set of clamps, I ran out of clamps pretty quick and then had to wait at least an hour prior to the assembly of more. My current project has 56 framed panels in 3/4" thick Western Red Cedar, Pine and Iroko so I decided to try a new way of assembly rather than play the waiting game. My PC pinner was purchased for just this purpose and I'm happy to report that this technique works like a charm and the glue joints remain tight while the glue sets AND the pin holes are truly "pin holes". On my current project the back-side of the panels is not visible so therefore I don't need to fill these holes, but on "good two side" projects these holes will not be an issue to fill.

The longer the panel sits in clamps the better chance the glue has to "grab". To facilitate this I used two sets of clamps. I glued and assembled one panel in the first set of clamps, fired 5/8" pins into the joints and let that sit while I assembled a second panel in the second set of clamps. The clamps pull the joint together and the 5/8" long pins perfectly "pin" the tenon in the joint and hold the frame together once released from the clamps. Once the third panel was assembled I went back and removed the first panel from the clamps and set it aside to allow the glue to completely set, by the time I got back to the first panel the glue had just enough time to grab and the joint didn't budge. Just remember that they are 23 gauge pins and are there only to hold things together until the glue does it's job, so you can't be reefing on the joints until the glue has been completely set. In this alternating method I assembled all 56 panels in less than a day, totally cool! I estimated it would have taken the better part of a week to have done the same in the "traditional" way with only clamps.

The PC pinner performed flawlessly even without "PC brand" pins and regardless of the material (Western Red Cedar is like hard butter and Iroko is just as hard and stringy as Elm) the pins were set perfectly each and every time at 100 psi. For everyone who has used nail guns, you do have a tendency to push down prior to firing a nail to push back the safety arm. This pinner has a trigger safety on it that you pull back with your finger, so there is no requirement to push down, just set the nose on the surface and pull the trigger. There is a bit of bounce back but I found that even on Western Red Cedar I could avoid a large "nose dint" by using care in how I held the gun against the surface of the material. I can see how this gun would be very easy to jamb as the pins have no head. The pins have an arrow on them indicating which way they get inserted in the gun for good reason. The ram is tiny and must be machined to very tight tolerances (which contributes greatly to the high cost of such a small and specialized tool), I would imagine that if the ram gets distorted or damaged in any way this gun will be problematic from there ever-after. So handle and use this tool with care, if ever there was a nail gun to put the prescribed drop of oil in prior to use this is it. I'm sure I will find a million other uses for this gun over time, but for now I'm very pleased that it worked like a charm for the purpose I bought if for. You've got to love it when a new tool pays for itself on the first job!

One other piece of advice, this is NOT the gun for you if you are looking for a "nail gun". This is a "pinner" and should ONLY be used for that purpose. It can fire pins between 1/2" and 1" in length ONLY, most nail guns can fire nails from 3/4" to 2 1/2" in length. For general nailing buy a gun that fires 18 or 15 gauge nails, they are relatively cheap, much more durable and the nails are cheaper. Made in Taiwan yes, but made to very high standards so I have nothing disparaging to say on that front. Highly recommended.

Good gun, but you know the downside
I like this gun; it does everything claimed of it. It is very difficult to spot the pin holes, and they probably don't need filling. But it is possible to spot the hole if you know where to look for it. I wonder if it would be possible, though, to paint the head ends of the pins, prior to use, with an enamel that matched the workpiece and that would stand up to the plunger. I haven't tried this but it would be really cool if it worked.

One thing I have tried, though, that worked fine, is to find a tiny little knot that is near where I want to drive the pin and put it right at the center of it. The nose is so tiny that it's possible to locate the pin so accurately that you can put it smack in the center of these tiny little knots. The pin is much less noticeable there because people expect to see a variation of color at that point.

It is true, though, that the nose mars the work if the work is soft, but one way to address that problem is to put a small piece of masking tape on the work over the area. Use a little extra pressure so the pin won't be driven proud of the work. After the pin is driving, remove the tape. Voila-no marring.

The only real downside is the length of the pins-or lack thereof. You can't use it for really thick door or window trim, although I do, toward the thin side. There is one trick for this that I haven't tried but I think would work (keyhole slots with screws on the thick side; slide it in place, then secure with pins) but it's very labor intensive. I think PC should come with an 1.5 inch gun, and, when they do, give us full retail for our old guns in trade for it. (Right!)

Wish I had this a few years ago -- GREAT Performer !!!
I bought this after reading the reviews from everyone else. There is always trepidation when you hear pitfalls, especially when you consider the money and sweat-equity that goes into projects. Bottom line: I have encountered absolutely no problems to date. No "nose dents", no jamming, and the pin hole is so small it can be covered up with a wood-filler stick -- if it is needed at all. I've done so many projects the hard way in the past, that I'm kicking myself for not having this over the past few years. I also followed the PC instructions and put in just a couple of drops of oil, and I did not get the oil marks that some reviews mentioned. Additionally, I even used it in a tricky situation where I had to drive pins at an angle joining 2 pieces perpendicularly -- and it was flawless. I've used it on maple, oak and pine. I've run all three wood types (and all using 1" pins) at 80 PSI, and the depth has been perfect. By the way, the automatic adjustment to pin length is worth the price itself just in time (and forgetfulness) savings. I recommend this Pin Nailer highly.

For those who want to take fine to the next level
At first I was hesitant to buy the PC PIN100. The reviews were the core of my concern. Does it leave a dent in the work? Will it quickly malfunction? Is the pin visible? Is it a quality tool, or a piece of junk?
I took it out of the carrying case, and the clear plastic wrap, and immediately put 5 drops of the oil that comes in the kit, in the air nozzle. I wanted to ward off any jamming problems.
Upon loading the nails, I noticed that there were multiple arrows printed on the side of the nail strip. That way you would load them in the right direction. If you ignored the arrows, and loaded them upside down, which is possible considering the small size of the pins, the sharp, fine, thin tip would be up, to do battle with the hammer coming down. Certainly, it would veer off to one side, thereby freezing the hammer and pin. In addition that kind of action could score the shaft, and that would lead to other possible misfires. People reporting problems with jams could have done just that.
The top of the pin has a blunt-flat end on it, and the business end is sharp. Since they are so tiny, if you don't notice the arrows on the side, it is easy to load them upside down.
These pins are not serrated, or ring shanked, but rather smooth on the sides. That way they don't receive resistance on the way down. Important considering their fine size.
I was able to take the 3/4" pins, that come with the kit, and drive several into a 3/4" piece of oak, without any problems whatsoever. I first tested it out on a piece of scrap pine. Since I loaded the nailer with oil, it came out of the nose quite readily, which made a slight black mark where the pin went into the wood. Since the pine is very light, it showed. It was worth it, I wanted to break it in properly. After about 20 pins the oil cleared, I then went onto the oak, and it left a pin without any blemish. All in all with all of my testing, the pin nailer never misfired, or even hinted, at a misfire even once. I put it to the test with firing nails, as fast as I could squeeze the trigger, and never a problem or a glitch. You can fire a lot of nails very quickly with this tool.

It doesn't have the safety nose that requires plunging like the rest of the Porter Cable finish nailer line. That way you can get into finely cramped quarters, and get the pin in at your desired angle. What PC did, was put two levers on the handle, one is a safety release, and the other one is the firing trigger. It is well engineered that way, and is easy and intuitive to use.

How about the pin, does it show? On the first test pieces, with 5 drops of break in oil, it showed on the pine. After blowing it out with 20 pins, the oil deposits stopped, and all you saw was the pin hole. Does the pin hole become invisible by wiping water on the wood? I am getting critical here, but yes it does show. I was dreaming of the wood swelling, and making the pin hole completely invisible. That didn't happen in the pine and oak I tested it in. BUT the pin hole is so small, that all but the most critical customers will object to it. I have to admit that it is so tiny, that it couldn't be any smaller without disappearing altogether. Miniscule is the appropriate word here. It makes an 18 gauge finish nail look like a crater in comparison. For light colored wood it is barely visible, and for medium to dark woods it will disappear altogether. So if you are looking to attach really fine work, like 1/4" quarter round mldgs, this is just what the doctor ordered.

I tried to be critical of the impression if any the head would leave in the work. When working with oak, even at the highest pressures, it did not leave a mark. Pine on the other hand, required a gentle touch. If you pressed down on the head while firing, it left a tiny impression. If you laid the head gently onto the surface, and fired, it left no impression whatsoever. Considering that pine is so soft, that you can leave an impression in it with your finger nail, I laid to rest any concerns about dimples in the wood.

The air pressure range prescribed by PC is 60 to 100 PSI. It is advisable to stay within that range, whereas excessive pressures can cause problems. I imagine the firing apparatus is designed to ideally work within those ranges, and subjecting it to excessive pressure is reason for concern. I tweaked my regulator on the wall to 105 pounds, which would give me 100 or less at the gun, and it fired well without any difference in the head impression on the work.

So what does all of this mean? Simply put, I love this tool. It does the job beautifully, appears to do so without any suggestion of malfunctioning. I have the Porter Cable 16 gauge, and the 18 gauge both in the BN 125A and the 200A, and this makes my fourth PC finish level nailer, and not one of them has given me any problems. (They can misfire if you run them dry. I guess that is why PC always includes a squeeze bottle of oil with every nailer.)

This is a keeper. I bought the other size pin nails as well. They come in 1/2", 5/8", 3/4", and 1 inch. It comes with the 3/4", so I picked up the other sizes.
I am looking forward to using the PC PIN100 in doing the fine work. You can spend a lot of time, and get a large project to really look fine, but the small details can make the difference of looking like artwork, or a signature of a less skilled practitioner. This tool will make you an artist, on the detail work. Highly recommended.

Not Up To Par
The idea of the micro pinner is to leave a virtually invisible hole. The hole the pin leaves is small but the dent the nose leaves is terrible. The bounce from the recoil and the sharp nose needs a redesign. I've used other 23 gauge pinners and PC has a long way to go to be considered even acceptable. I guess you get what you pay for. ... Read more

Amazon.com Review

The only bad thing we can think of to say about this hard-working nailer is that you'll be hard at work too, instead of stopping to reload every few minutes. The coil holds up to 300 nails, depending on size, and loads in a jiffy. There are lots of good things to say. It's lightweight, well-balanced, ruggedly made, comfortable in hand because of the rubber grip, and has a nice toothy toenailing head to prevent slips. A clever thing Bostitch did is allow the user to shoot the exhaust in any direction. Its tidy design lets you get in where stick nailers dare not go. Another thing we like is that it's not as pricey as others in its class, and frankly, we think it's just as good if not better. --Kris Jensen-Van Heste ... Read more

Features

• 880 in./lbs. of driving power
• Aluminum housing for durability
• Coil magazine offers plenty of capacity
• Adjustable exhaust deflector

Reviews (11)

This one will bring you home
I've used this nailer on several framing projects and have not been disapointed. It's compact design allows easy access to most tight places. Coil load averages about 300 nails so I spend more time shooting than loading. Loading is easy and rarely have had a jam. It's a little heavier due to the coil load but the advantages out weigh the weight. Can be set up for contact nailing which speeds things along. Nailer has crowned head that can grab wood for toe nailing. At 100 psi this nailer drives the nails with about 1/8" countersink. You can find coils at most hardware retailers. Nails are reasonable priced. Great product. Reliable and durable.

This is a great nail gun
Pros:
+ I've never had a jam with this gun.
+ The coil feed is great, you almost never have to load and you don't have to carry around extra nails like you do with a stick feed.
+ The weight isn't a problem at all, I don't even notice it with a full coil of nails. It doesn't seem any heavier than my PC Finish Nailer.

Note:
When I first got this gun I had a lot of double and triple shots but I solved that when I replaced the trigger with the much safer and easier to use sequential trigger -- included and easy to install. I highly recommend replacing the trigger... don't know why it comes with the bump trigger installed by default.

A Review for the Framing Nailer Novice
[Summary: Some effort to get started, but this nailer works well.]

Let's start with what you're not going to get:
- no 1/4" NPT air plug (required)
- no Teflon tape for the plug (required)
- no lubricating oil (required)
- no nails (required)
- no air filter (recommended)
- no case or bag (nice to have)
- no depth of drive adjustment (nice to have)

With this, my first framing nailer, I scratched my head a few times getting the tool ready to use. It wasn't immediately obvious where the air hose connected; there's a recessed red plastic cap at the end of the handle, and an arrow pointing to it labeled "OIL". Pry this cap out with your fingernails, buy a 1/4" male NPT plug (to fit your air hose connector) and some Teflon tape, and screw the plug into the end of the nailer.

The N80CB comes equipped with a black contact trip trigger. A contact trigger will fire every time the safety shoe around the business end of the tool is depressed as long as the trigger is down. The loaded nailer is over 10 pounds so its weight tends to drop it down onto the nailing surface right after the recoil bumps it up -- frequently leading to two or three nails driven. I decided I'd prefer the silver-gray sequential trip trigger, included in a plastic bag. You need a hammer and the included punch to drive out the trigger pivot pin, and to drive the pin back when you install the other trigger. The trigger moves back with no pressure when installed; you'll feel very slight trigger resistance, however, when the safety shoe is depressed.

The nail loading procedure is made needlessly mysterious by the tiny drawings (.8 square inches each) illustrating the first four steps of the operation. If a normal picture is worth a thousand words, these are worth maybe 42. So I'll add a few more to help.

Position the tool with the firing end at the lower left, with the "!WARNING:" label on the cyclindrical nail can oriented for reading. The loading latch is midway between this label and the business (firing) axis of the tool. There's a flat fingertip-sized metal shelf at the top of the latch. Press this down (that is, in the direction the nails fire) and swing the loading door open toward you and to the left.

Grab the plastic part that has the "!WARNING:" label, and swing the top cover of the nail can open toward you and to the right.

There's a buckle clamp holding the bottom of the nail can in place. Using your right hand reach below the hinge of the top cover and follow the curve of the lower can around toward its far side. Your index finger will be on the buckle latch lever. Pull the lever toward you until the latch springs open, then move the near part of the buckle clamp off the ridge at the right side of the lower can. Get a couple of fingers behind this clamping ridge and pull toward you. The bottom section of the can will pop out of the grooves it's nested into on the fixed side of the can.

Reinsert the bottom section of the can so that the far side rectangular cutout ("window") underlines the correct nail length embossed in the black plastic of the fixed side of the can. Mark this position some way other than by using the measurement cutout (I used a felt-tip pen until I got used to the sizes) as you won't be able to see the markings when the can is full of nails. Remove the can again and fill it with nails. With the B & C Eagle nails at 3-1/4" I had to unwind the full 200 nail coil and rewind it to fit smoothly around the spindle. (If you have to re-coil your nails make sure the 15 degree slant puts the point forward of the head as the nail coil exits the can.) Reinsert the can at the appropriate position and reattach the buckle clamp.

Pull enough of the coil from the can to get the lead nail into the business axis of the gun, and the nail immediately behind it between the teeth of the feed pawl. Make sure the nail heads are all in the feed groove provided for them. Swing the top cover of the nail can closed from the right, and the loading door closed from the left. Push firmly until the door locks into place.

With your new 1/4" NPT plug in place on the nailer, attach it to your air hose's quick connector. Now you're ready to get to work!

How does the N80CB work? Very well! After using my gentle finish nailer I admit I was surprised to see sparks fly each time one of the heavy framing nails was hammered home. My only difficulty: finding a local source of nails in Silicon Valley. Luckily the B & C Eagle nails available from Amazon worked like a champ (after recoiling). No jams; no problems at all.

The N80CB does not come with a depth of drive adjustment. There's a fairly expensive add-on unit you can buy. You can also get an approximation of drive depth adjustment by fiddling with the air pressure within the 70-100 PSI range. Based on only framing with 2-1/2" and 3-1/4" nails, you should set the pressure based on the nail size (100 PSI for the bigger nails) and leave it alone.

Finally, I found the packaging pretty meager. This is a bulky, heavy tool, and the packaging is just a box containing a cardboard sheet with cutouts designed to cradle the nailer. My unit ended up ripping the cardboard cutout sheet as its weight was thrown about by the UPS shippers. Luckily the tool itself was rugged enough to survive.

Great Coil Framing Nailer!
I recently purchased this Bostitch coil framing nailer. It is the best nailer i have ever used. It has very little recoil, but yet a great amount of power. Some people are sceptical on buying the coil nailers because of weight issues and jamming issues, but i have had NO jams and the weight is about the same as a loaded stick nailer, even when the coil nailer has a full coil of nails. I have a Bostitch stick framing nailer also, which i am very pleased with as well. I also own an assortment of various types of finish nailers also made by Bostitch. I am very pleased with all of them. For many reasons especially the ease of using Bostitch fastners because every store I visit has bostitch nails. Overall i am extremely pleased with this coil framing nailer, and any Bostitch product for that matter. I would strongly recomend it to anyone looking for a good nailer.

More nailing, less reloading
I bought this nailer to speed the building of a 12x16 shed by myself. It paid for itself on that project alone and worth every cent.

Pros:
1. More nailing, less reloading(like I said).
2. Great size for tight spaces.
3. Great balance even fully loaded.
4. Plently of power.
5. TOUGH, dropped on a six foot ladder, picked it up and got back to work without pause.

Cons:
1. Can only toenail from left side in REALLY tight spaces due to the feed mechanism on right side(not that big an issue).
2. Not the best gun for rapid nail switchs, so if you have to switch often between 12D and 8D ring for small jobs it can be a pain. ... Read more

Features

• 25ft hi-flex hose stays flexible - will not kink
• A powerful, portable, professional 3-stage system
• Fuji XT model non-bleed spraygun
• Stainless steel fluid components
• Insulated stay-cool handle

Reviews (1)

So happy I now wish I had bought Fuji's top of the line
This HVLP is like my new best friend. This morning I sprayed 1/2 gallon of paint onto 25 kitchen cabinet doors (one side), in 2 hours including clean up. The finish is impeccable.

My only regret is that I didn't spend the extra $200 and buy the four turbine unit. A friend of mine recommended Fuji because he's been painting professionally with his for the last 13 years--no problems. His is the three turbine model, so I figured I didn't need anything more.

Only one complication: thinning. In order to shoot latex (I use Benjamin Moore Iron Clad Latex Enamel) you have to thin it. I have not been able to eliminate orange-peel with anything less than 20% thinning. And I'm not sure if this jeopardizes the integrity of the paint.

But otherwise, this sprayer will save you so much time it is ridiculous. Think what you can paint--cabinets, furniture, base board, molding, the cat.

The unit is quiet, and seems to be quality. It uses standardized turbines. ... Read more

Features

• Dust, dirt, and water resistant - 1 year limited warranty
• Five self-leveling orthogonal beams: level, plumb, and square
• Electronic self-leveling with flashing out-of-level indicator
• Visible and accurate to 1/4" @ 100'
• Powered by four AA batteries, auto-shut off with low battery indicator

Reviews (10)

Laser self-leveling RT-7610-5
Price is very reasonable, after using this tool a few times it is very easy to use, I checked the plumb lines with a plumb bob to insure accuracy, and it was dead center at 15 feet high. the level is also very accurate--I use it to set cabinets, and for laying out.
Just as important, the tool makers customer service is impressive, and they are very helpful with any questions or support.
I think because of that I should have rated this tools with 5 stars.

Laser problems
I have a similar problem as two other users. I used the system several times immediately after purchase and it worked fine. Then I didn't use it for over 8 months. It was stored in the original container and inside the house. I recently tried to use it again and now the servos work, but there is no laser. I've got an email into the company, but we'll see...

Make it work.....
I got my 7610-5 as a factory rebuild, so I am not out as much as some of you. When I first got home, I thought it was broken, but after 20 mins or so, it finally leveled itself. I was able to use it on a job 1 time, but after storing it (in an air conditioned room) for a couple of months, it never worked again. Customer svc will not answer emails, and a call to the factory says they will charge $85 to fix it no matter what is wrong, maybe good, maybe bad. I really wish that I had a laser that I could rely on, but this is not it. As a remodler, my tools must work when I get to the jobsite, always. I am very disapointed, especially now that porter cable has started selling them. Every other P.C. tool that I have is excellent, this will bring down the quality of their product line.

laserless level
I have had this level one and half years, using it about ten times. It worked well and saved me alot of time. My one very minor complaint would have been its long search times to find level. (Longer than others I have used.) Now I have a major complaint...after storing it in the recommended manner for five months, it will not produce a beam...it justs searches for level. The little motor hums, the little gimble indexes and I get nothing. It was working fine, no abuse, no accidents...can't recommend it now, can I?

Not perfect, but darn useful
purchased this after going through much pain trying to locate several downlights in a large living room. That job alone paid for the puchase. Since then I've used it to lay out landscapes, fences, and cabinets. The self-leveling feature is perfect for amatures like myself.

Some minor qualms, it's well built, but not bullet-proof (why did they move to servos for the level?!!?), the laser seems to shoot too large of a dot, and it's hard to see outside (even with the aids supplied). As others have noted, It's also very sensitive to being bumped, or serious vibrations; This has never been a problem for me, I'm not a contractor, but I can see it being a pain on a busy job site.

Overall: highly recommended ... Read more

Features

• Extruded aluminum fence
• Includes top, fence, pre-drilled router plate, and cabinet
• Fully adjustable miter track with 3/4-inch miter gauge t-slot and accessory t-slot
• 22-by-16-inch laminated work surface
• Accepts most routers

Reviews (35)

Good for the price, but...
This is a good router table, for the price. That being said, I did have some problems. That's why I only gave it 4 stars. Unlike one of the previous reviewers who said he assembled it in 45 minutes... it took me 3 hours. This included a trip to the hardware store, because the hardware package provided was incomplete. No screws were provided to attach the subfences. (I used 1/4" x 1 1/2" carriage bolts for this and that seems to work adequately.) Also, I had to cut a couple of the insert bracket screws to allow the door to close, because the shorter ones specified were missing.
My other gripe is that I also purchased the pricey auxillary switch... it's a good switch, but didn't install as I had anticipated. I had intended to mount it on the bottom miter track slot, as per instructions. According to the specs for the switch, 'all new Bench Dog router tables come equipped with this slot'. However, the new RT150 ProTop I just purchased did not come equipped with this slot. That was a minor disappointment, and also increased the assembly time while I figured out another acceptable way of mounting the switch, as I definitely did not want to mount it on the fence.
The assembly instructions provided are very good and easy to follow. And they thoughtfully provide a nice assortment of screws for mounting most brands of routers to the insert plate.
I do recommend purchasing this router table. It's much better than any other I've seen in this price range.

They should double-check the hardware packages.

Quality well built table
This is my first router table and I don't think I'll ever have to buy another one. This thing is really nice. I am very impressed. I shopped around and looked at the Porter Cable (which got so-so reviews) and Craftsman (seem cheezy) but didn't want to spend an arm an a leg on some of the larger tables. Yet I still wanted quality. This has it. At a very reasonable ptice too!
It's heavy enough to keep it from sliding around, but has a lip on the bottom to clamp it to the work surface if you need to. It also has a lip on the table top for clamping feather boards etc.
The fence is solid, straight, and easily adjustable. It can even be shimmed(shims included) to be used as a joiner. Mine came with an upgrade from the acrylic plate to the phenolic plate. Nice suprise. It comes with a drilling template for mounting many popular routers to the blank plate. The instructions for assembly are straight-foward and easy to follow. It probably took me a half hour to 45 minutes to assemble taking my time.
The only drawback I have found is that you need to open the door to get to the power switch on the router. It would be nice if it had a switch built in to control the router and vacume, but then I guess it would cost more. I'll just add my own I guess. Benchdog does sell the switch if your intrested.
Because of that it really should get 4.5 stars.

WOW - A GREAT TOOL FOR BEGINNER OR PRO!
I received the Bench Dog Router Table last week from Tyler Tools (they shipped the product the next business day and I received it two days later! - instead of waiting for 1-2 weeks for shipment from Amazon and at the same price). It took two hours to assemble and route my first piece of wood. After a few adjustments I was doing perfect dovetails, v-cuts, chamfers, dados, etc. Not bad for someone who has never used a router before! I put the Bench Dog table on my workmate bench. It is heavy (44 pounds without the router) and is very stable during operations. Of course, I clamped the table to the bench for safety. The fence is easy to adjust and one side can be offset for joinery cuts. The tabletop had predrilled holes for all types of routers - I used the Dewalt 616 router.

If you are looking for a router table, look no further!

Also on the waiting list.
Ordered this item on June 19th. Just got an update that the expected arrival date is July 28-Aug 3. Don't buy it here if you expect in in 1-2 weeks.

Wonderful Smaller Router Table
Just recieved and very pleased. Finish is perfect. Easy to put together. Tested it using my Porter Cable router on some walnut scrap - quiet, no vibration, great dust collection. Had a Rockler portable table that scared me every time used it because it was not stable - tossed it in the trash today. ... Read more

Amazon.com Review

This was one great saw even before the Delta designers took it back to the drawing board. But the improvements they made, along with Delta's trademark quality, make this saw one of the kings in the radial arm world. The new design will have you cutting up to 16-inch widths of 2-inch stock at 90 degrees. Miter cuts have greater capacity now too, to 10-1/2 inches at 45 degrees left and 11 inches at 45 degrees right, all powered by a 1-1/2-horsepower motor. Among the nicer changes are the new depth-of-cut control handle and locking levers, which Delta positioned above the table for easy access. Whenever you buy a radial arm saw, you're going to have to spend some time setting it up and calibrating it, but this one seems to hold its adjustments better than most, and the cast-iron track, column, and column support offer rigidity and continued accuracy. As you've come to expect with better saws, an automatic brake will stop the blade in seconds. The table's a good 27 by 44 inches, providing plenty of stock support. --Kris Jensen-Van Heste ... Read more

Features

• Two-year limited warranty on machines, parts, and accessories
• Powerful 1-1/2 HP capacitor start, capacitor run motor
• Increased miter cuting capacities in nominal 2-inch thick stock: 10-1/2 at 45 degrees left and 11 inches at 45 degrees to the right
• New depth of cut control handleand locking levers are positioned above the table for easy access
• Cast iron track, column and column support for rigidity and continued accuracy

Reviews (6)

Never use it - wish I hadn't bought it!
I bought this radial arm saw to use as a dedicated saw for dados. The pressboard table warps with every change of the weather, requiring frequently releveling. I generally just change blades and use the table saw instead. I wouldn't buy it again.

rating the radial
I am a female, and thought a woman's point of view helpful. I had considered ordering a more expensive radial, but the shipping was out of sight, so I thought long and hard about this one. I am glad I went this route. The saw was easy for me to handle, and assemble. The directions were clear and precise (once I could figure them out) and most worked well for accuracy aligning. I was able to get it aligned without any problems. The table is hard to level, and I find the arm control lever at the back hard to reach to lower or raise the saw. The guard is hard to manuever and is rigid. The table was not nearly high enough so I have it on sitting on boards (works great). I wish there was more cover with the guard, but it is okay for now. The saw is quiet and seems efficient. I cut a little higher fence for thicker boards. Mine will only be used for dadoes, and I think I am going to be glad I went with this particular model. I have been happy with Delta tools in the past. The price is reasonable, and shipping and delivery were great. Didn't take long to get it put together. It will get a lot of use with my projects.

Some Good - Some not so good
The market for Radial saws is very limited in the $500.- $800. price bracket. I basicly had two choices a Delta or Ridgid. I purchased the Delta because it had a cast iron arm instead of stamped welded steel. The saw went together easily with the exception of leveling the table this took 3 attemps to get it right. The instructions for adjusting the saw were very clear and all the adjusting screws & bolts had a solid quality feel. I feel that this saw will hold its settings.The blade guard binds when it is rotated and must be jiggled to move it.( a little sanding may smooth things out.) The controls for adjusting the height and all other adjustments work very smoothly. The blade & motor unit was a little hard to slide on the arm and had to be adjusted. ( still not as free & smooth as the Ridgid but not a problem ) My first cut was right on the money
a solid 90 Deg. A nice feature is a switch on the motor to change from 115 V to 220V. I have not used the saw much but the more I use it and become familiar with it the more confident I become that I made the right choice. Cross cutting wide lumber is what ths saw is all about & that it does well. If the blade guard moved smoothly I would have given this saw five stars.

the only choice on the market for rabbets and dados
I debated for a long time on whether to get this or one of the compound sliding miter saws. I needed something to do rabbet and dado cuts on long pieces of lumber, for making shelves and other furniture, and this was the only real choice on the market. The larger radial arm saws are way too expensive, and from what I read, the miter saws are only good for through cuts, not measured depth cuts.

A radial arm saw is also the only saw to buy if you're cutting oddly shaped items or doing really difficult cuts. It has adjustments on every axis, which makes it very versatile. I've seen people put a chuck on one of these and use it as boring machine and a router for odd shapes. Radial arm saws are almost completely off the market now, except for high end units, so this is the about average consumer's only choice for these kind of cuts.

This came very well packaged, and was easy enough for one person to set up. I had a little trouble leveling the table, and it seemes kind of cheezy the way it is done, but I finally got it right.

This saw generally has enough power, if you don't get in a bind with warped lumber, when it will stall out. This is probablly good, rather than a higher powered saw, which might throw the piece back at you.

My main complaint with this saw is the difficulty of adjustments, especially the height adjustment. Strangely enough, it is easier to raise the blade than to lower it. It goes up easy enough, but trying to lower it back down is very difficult, like it is adjusted too tight. I actually lifted the saw off the floor trying to turn the height lever to lower the blade. Since you have to raise it and lower it everytime you change miter or angle of cut, this can be quite a hassel.

There seems to be only a positive stop at 90 degrees, which I always double check, and the attached gagues aren't that accurate, so you've got to use a sliding protracter for any miter or angle cuts.

The floating lower blade guard gets stuck sometimes, and I ended fixing it in place in its highest position. At least the whole blade guard isn't totally useless like what comes on table saws.

Overall, a pretty good saw, but for the price I'd expect it to have better guages and some positive stops, plus be easier to adjust. Sometimes I end up cutting a piece on the table saw because this is such a hassel to adjust. I've used this saw for furniture, and to rebuild my deck (a lot of wood hauling). For building projects, I may end up getting a 12" sliding compound miter saw yet. This is a good, but not great saw. A better one would cost twice as much.

Rock solid
I had a tough time deciding on whether to get the Delta 10" vs the 12". Finally deciding on the 10", I received it in the mail. It came well packaged and ready to go. The piece itself is really sturdy and cuts perfectly. ... Read more

Features

• Accu-Fence and rail system
• Heavy single piece cast-iron trunion for minimal vibration
• Excalibur sliding table for complete control cutting long stock and sheet goods
• Left tilt blade reduces binding and tear out
• Laminated extension table

Reviews (3)

Great Investment
This saw replaced a Delta 10" Cabnit Saw - which was a very good saw.

The Powermatic 5HP is one big saw. It will cut anything wood without burning. No matter how slow or fast I feed wood into it the powerful 5HP saw there are no problems. Plywood in sheets can be feed with ease. The cuts are straight the first time and require no secondary working. I have not had one poor plywood cut on this machine. This is the best ripping saw I have ever used. Again the cuts are true and I have not wasted any wood since the purchase of this unit. Wonderful work products can be produced with ease.

The sliding table was set up after viewing a video tape. Using the tips in the video I set up the sliding table - leveled and set it even with the blade in 3 hours. A recent review I read on sliding tables said it took six hours - anyone could do it alone in three following the video. If you have someone to help you - 2 to 2.5 hours. This is not a mobil unit - save your money - do not buy a mobil base. The sliding table must stay stationary to stay properly set.

The rail and fence fit the saw table and sliding table without the need for any cutting. The fence once aligned matains square. It adjusts with little effort. Repeat cuts are exact duplicates of one another. This is as good of fence as I have used and recommend it highly. There is no need of an upgrade here.

With the cast iron extention to the right of the blade and the wood extention table you have an unbeatable work service. Your work is fully supported. You can control cuts with little effort. You will be able to work plywood sheets all day long with this saw, it's sliding table to the left, and the 50 inch extention to the right.

The fit and finish are excellent. Everything went together with ease. The instructions were clear. I put on a Forrest blade and it was in perfect alignment without the need of adjustment - none! I could not believe that it was set right out of the box. The table was level and ground properly - my straight edge was dead flat over every surface of the table. The extension cast iron wing may be a bit off to the left outside but not that it effects cuts or quality of work. It is so close I just can not tell for sure.

This saw will not make better end results BUT it will allow you to work with confidence, building your skills. It is a high compacity workhorse. It will be the last cabnit saw I will buy.

Magnificent saw - worth every penny
I am happy with it every time I use it. It performs the way a table/cabinet saw should - it cuts everything perfectly, every time. It makes glue ready joints every time and I don't even use a fancy forrest blade. I use a decent 60 tooth Freud and I'm happy. It is amazing. The excalibure table is useful, though massive. It isn't the answer to all problems, but with some effort, you can make accurate & precise cuts on full sheets of plywood. I recommend an outfeed table in addition to all this saw has. It makes the sliding table more stable, and improves cuts. The 5 HP motor is great. It doesn't slow down under a load - ever, no matter what. You can rip through solid maple like it was balsa wood. The much touted cast iron top and trunion deserve the praise they receive. This saw is as solid as a tank. You could easily use it for 50 years and still be happy with the cuts!

Buy it and enjoy!

Big And Powerful
This is one big heavy saw. It took me three to four hours to set it up after watching the video on the sliding table, the table saw is machined perfect and is very powerful, the five horsepower motor will run though any hardwood you can cut. I have installed a Forrest Blade on it. With the sliding table I can cross cut a full sheet of plywood by myself.I build a lot of cabinets and I need a saw that will stay where you put it, this one will not move with a sheet of 3/4" plywood on it. The rip fence is strong and accurate. You want be disappointed with this saw, it is by far this best table saw on the market today. ... Read more

Amazon.com Review

The heart of any table saw is the fence, and DeWalt's smooth-sliding, unique double-cam action fence locks down tight and always travels parallel to the blade. The fence face shifts forward, too, giving you the option--if a cut requires it--of extra fence area in front of the blade. The fence can also drop flush to the table for ripping laminates.

In fact, this saw is riddled with great, user-friendly features. There's an oversize, left-side on/off switch that lets you bump the saw off with your knee if you run into trouble while making a cut. It's exactly this sort of attention to detail that wins a lot of people over to DeWalt products. The blade-elevation crank is also set lower on this saw than most, so there's plenty of hand clearance for making blade height adjustments. Again, this might seem like a minor touch until you think about how frustrating it is to bang your knuckles on a table bottom every time you want to change the blade height. This table's sturdy, metal bevel scale is a nice touch, too; it's easy to read and much burlier than the mere stickers found on a lot of other saws. The saw's inboard 1-3/4-horsepower induction motor is quiet, cuts down on vibration, and makes this saw considerably more space-efficient than outboard motor saws, a feature you'll appreciate if you work in a small shop or have to take your saw through doorways. And at 254 pounds, this saw's got plenty of heft, a big cast-iron trunnion, and a sturdy steel base. There's also an integrated dust port if you want to hook the saw up to a dust collector. --Jon Groebner ... Read more

Features

• 1-3/4-horsepower induction motor offers more power
• Double cam-action fence for reliable accuracy
• Integrated dust collection system
• Easy access shut-off switch

Reviews (2)

DW746X TABLE SAW
Just recieved this saw from Amazon. Merchandise was delivered on time and in perfect condition even with the free shipping. Trucking company called 4 days in advance to schedule a time and confirmed the morning of the delivery and set it in my garage as requested.

Assembly was strait forward and not difficult, all required hardware was complete. Assembly and setup time with the mobile base (which is cool makes mobility a snap be sure to get it this saw is heavy) was about 3 hours without help. The table extentions that come with the saw are cheap but install easily enough, I am going to buy the cast iron ones. The fence was a bit tricky to square to the table first and then the blade. I skipped the table part and squared to the blade. The trick is to leave the bolts somewhat tight and proceed to tighten with the bolt closest to you first. The blade tilt and indicator settings for the blade bevel were right on from the factory and the hand wheels operate smoothly. Be sure to check the factory installed fasteners some of mine were loose.

After cleaning the grease from the saw and all parts I waxed the table and fence. Suprisingly the saw came with a Dewalt 50 tooth laser cut blade which is what I was to purchase aftermarket. I only did some test cuts and I will update this review once I use the saw.(thats why 4 stars)

I have been woodworking for over 6 years and had a DW744 saw and purchased this as an upgrade. I own a Dewalt planer, 12" compound miter and various smaller Dewalt tools and have never been dissapointed with thier products, thus the purchase of this saw.

Setup of DeWalt's DW746 Table Saw Can Be Frustrating
I have just spent about 15 hours setting up the DeWalt DW746 table saw, and I still can't use it. The On-Off Switch is defective; the motor starts up regardless of which position the switch is in--not exactly safe. I called DeWalt's help line but received a recorded message that help is available only 8-5 M-F, so I'll have to wait out the weekend. The saw has been set up in my basement workshop for 4 days and so far I've had to clean up about 1/4 cup of oil which has leaked from the motor. I don't know if this means the motor is defective; hopefully the DeWalt help line will clarify what is going on.
I took another owner's advice and bought the two heavy duty cast iron extension tables. One of the tables arrived with dings along the edge which mates with the main table; this edge also seems to be slightly bowed, being high in the middle and low at the edges.
Adjusting the saw blade to 0 and 90 degree bevel angles is straightforward with easily accessible adjustment screws located conveniently in the miter slots. However, adjusting the fence is something else. To square the fence to the table top, you must loosen three torx (T50) screws and make the adjustment. When finished, you are instructed to tighten the three torx screws. In the next setup step, setting the fence parallel to the blade, you are instructed to loosen two of the screws (which you just tightened) and to loosen the third screw just enough to allow setting the fence parallel. Unless you are very lucky, you are going to have to repeat this process several times in order to get everything square and parallel, because every time you get one adjustment right, it seems to throw off the other.
I agree with other reviewers that the supplied stamped left & right support tables are junk. Spend the extra money and get the heavy duty cast iron side tables. The supplied miter gauge is also a piece of junk, as are the arbor wrenches for changing blades.
Prepare to lay out even more money for a good combination or crosscut saw blade, because the one supplied with this saw is a ripping blade suitable only for "occasional cross cuts."
If you get the mobile base, assemble and install it as one of the first steps: don't wait until last, because this saw is awfully heavy to lift, especially with the heavy duty extension table attached.
All in all, I have high hopes for this saw--the main table seems sturdy enough, and the supplied motor is a high quality two capacitor induction type which should give years of faithful service. The defective On-Off switch is a big disappointment but I hope DeWalt's help epresentative will solve this to mutual satisfaction. ... Read more

Features

• Water resistant non submersible
• Provides level reference and point-to-point plumb
• Working range at 100 feet
• Accurate to less than 1/4 in. at 100 ft.
• Automatic leveling

Reviews (1)

PLS 3 is a great little tool
I have been using one of these little laser plumb/levels for about a month now. It is the first, and often only level I reach for these days. It shoots a bright red dot visible in full daylight, and makes locating plumb and level points a cinch. Great for framing, layout, finish,etc.. It is rugged enough to handle the usual job-site bumps and scratches, and small and light enough to fit in your tool pouch. Long battery life too... The only drawback is that the other guys on the crew constantly want to borrow it! ... Read more

Amazon.com Review

This well-designed planer offers fast stock removal and the smoothest finish--exactly what we expected from Bosch. The powerful 6.5 amp motor runs the versatile two-blade Woodrazor system at 16,500 rpm with a protective shield that covers the section of blade that's not in use. The fence itself deserves applause--bevels are accurate and easy to adjust. We love the chip ejection as well. Too many times, we've tried tools with an exhaust system that might as well not be there, but this one actually moves the removed stock and it's multidirectional! Deep cuts are possible in just one pass without bogging or chatter. There's even a spring-loaded park rest stand that protects blade and workpiece. The saw is a special shape that allows easy start-up in the middle of a workpiece. Accidental starts are a thing of the past because of the lock-off release button. Bosch thought of everything; we're impressed. --Kris Jensen-Van Heste ... Read more

Features

• Depth adjustment of 0 - 3/32? - Makes deep cuts in one pass
• Powerful 6.5 Amp motor - For fast stock removal and a smooth finish, 16,500 RPM
• Chip ejection switch - Directs shavings left or right
• Versatile 2-blade system equipped with Bosch WoodrazorTM micrograin carbide blades
• Bevel guide fence - Ensures consistent planing from 0° to 45° through entire workpiece with a protective shield that covers the section of blade not in use

Reviews (12)

One Heckuva Tool
Bought this planer the other day to do some doors. It was all I expected and more. Very strong motor - never even appeared to bog down. Good balance. Depth control is very easy to use and accurate. I actually own a Dewalt and a Makita. I bought the Bosch for the features (i.e. the fully adjustable fence, the adjustable chip deflector that actually comes with a WORKABLE shop vac adapter - THAT is great!) and the reputation. I have not been disapointed. The Bosch is the best of the three. Until I got the Bosch I was pretty well satisfied with the Makita with the Dewalt pulling up the rear, but the Bosch is the best of the three by far. Strongest motor, Woodrazor carbide blades, shop vac adapter, and that great fence. You will use the fence. It can be set at 90 degrees or any other angle you want - and there is an adjustagble rabbeting stop that basically lets you take it about as deep and wide as you want. By the way, USE a shop vac with this. It will fill up your shop with shavings in a heartbeat - but with a vac hooked up, not a one hit the floor. Overall, this is a super tool at a very reasonable price. Oh yeah, it's also relative quiet. This one's a keeper.

Blowing Chunks
I have owned this tool for about 1 year and I must say the Bosch 1594K planer is a very fine example of engineering, function, design and quality all meeting at the same place and time. If you are one who uses a planer at your occupation, you will really appreciate the handling characteristics of this tool, kind of like a Rolls Royce to a Chauffeur. But like most tools of this caliber it has many other rival brands that also are real fine gems within themselves. I do believe that the one solid advantage this Bosch has over the rest of the competing brands is its ability to spew wood chips either to the right or the left. In fact, this planer is so proficient at wood ejection, that from a distance it looks like your blowing chunks!

They Need To Re-Think The Fence
Overall the unit is fine, but the fence is made so cheap that you cannot set it to 90 deg. without doing some filing on the slot. This is a very poorly engineered fence and is not like Bosch to put something so cheap on their tools.

Outstanding Product
Like a lot of Bosch tools, this is build like a tank. The quality of the construction is first rate. You can't go wrong. Bosch has never let me down.

Great power, great performance
I purchased this tool to square up some finishes on the deck I'm building (I'm picky). The PT lumber is among the most dense I've used - 16d nails are buckling in this stuff!

Once the decking dried, I took this powerhouse to the mismatched edges that cropped up. NO PROBLEM! It was like a hot knife slicing butter! The extras included in the kit make this machine a top value! The depth adjustment is easy and very accurate, and the dust chute's ability to change discharge sides is a very nice feature when you can't. ... Read more

Amazon.com Review

Are expensive router bits worth the cost? After testing Freud's 1/2-inch shank set, we think the answer is yes. The features found in these Freud bits--long-lasting micrograin carbide/titanium tips, tri-metal brazing, and an antikickback design--make them a better choice than less-expensive options. Each Freud bit is computer-balanced to run vibration- and chatter-free at speeds well in excess of the typical 22,000 rpm of most routers. These bits have a high shear angle that produces less tear-out and chatter marks, leaving a cross-grained cut that requires little or no sanding. Multiaxis grinding helps ensure the proper relief angle on cutting edges regardless of how the bit is oriented. The kit includes a variety of useful bits most frequently used by woodworkers and comes in a sturdy wooden case for maximum protection of the cutting edges. --Tim Block ... Read more

Features

• High shear angle for less tear-out and chatter marks
• Bits for V-grooving and flush trimming to chamfering and dovetailing
• All bits are solid carbide or carbide-tipped
• Anti-kickback design
• Perma-SHIELD-coated to reduce friction and heat build-up

Reviews (14)

The Best on Amazon.com
This is an excellent starter set for any woodworker. Once you use 1/2" shank bits , you'll never want to buy a bit with a 1/4 inch shank again. They really do cut smoother. The carbide is a little harder than the average bit. It will stay sharp a little longer than many other carbide bits . I find them very good with most hardwoods. They chip a little faster than some if you hit a misplaced brad nail or other hard object. Some will just keep on going. Not a Freud. This shouldn't be a problem most of the time. Freud was ranked in the top 5 in a fine woodworking bit test. It was far ahead of all other brands available at Amazon.com though. Jesada was ranked last out of 17 brands. I would stick with the Freud set. They are very good and reasonably priced to boot.

Versatility and quality
I am very pleased with the versatility and the quality of this set. It has allowed me to make a beautiful fireplace mantle out of solid maple. The cuts were clean with no tears, the bits I used stayed sharp throughout the routing. The bits in the set are varied enough to let you do almost any project you would like. I highly recommend this bit set to the novice woodworker or the experienced. It is great.

Excellent Quality
I have used this set of Freud bits in my shop for several years and I have not needed to have them sharpened yet. The cut is smooth and chatter free. These bits seem to cut through the hardest of wood effortlessly. I own many other brands of router bits, and I think that Freud has a far superior product. You may pay a little more for these bits than the cheaper bits from other manufacturers, but the money is well spent.

Can't fault this set
A very fine set of bits, I'm pleased. The only glitch is the plastic form inside the box; it allowed a bit to get loose and rattle around (and chip) during shipping. Amazon set it right, but I wish Freud would find a way of really locking the bits in during shipping. Other than that, a wonderful starter set.

Like butter
While I haven't routed any hardwood other than oak ply, these bits cruise through everything I've sent their way! The half inch shanks really stabalize them for super clean cuts. This set has a good selection of shapes to get you started if you don't have any or will upgrade some of your favorite shapes if you do. Worth the price.

Update: I've now used these to route plenty of harwood, including red oak and maple, these bits are still going strong! I've put a fair amount of use on them in the last year and haven't had a single problem with them. Keep them clean and dry and you won't either. ... Read more

Features

• High-speed, air-powered
• High-capacity magazine
• Long-reach handle for added user comfort and control
• Aircraft-grade aluminum housing

Reviews (7)

Pneumatic or Manual
I use this pneumatic stapler on a daily basis. I've also used the pneumatic and manual nailers numerous times. I recommend the pneumatic stapler far beyond all else. It hardly ever jams and it sets the staples into the wood better than the manual. The nailer jams more and is much harder to clear, when it does. More often than anything, if the stapler jams you simply have to pick it up off the wood and tap it on the side of the resevoir. It normally will drop out any broken pieces of staple at that time. It makes life alot easier when you are working on a large floor.

Expensive But Worth It.
This tool makes laying a hardwood floor almost fun. If you are laying a prefinished floor, I would also recommend the optional foot (MIIIFOOT). I don't see that this is available on Amazon. I purchased mine on eBay. Also, some of the reviews on this item are for the MIIIFS, which is a floor stapler, not a nailer. According to some sources, there are less problems with the wood splitting with the nailer. There seems to be a hot market for these tools on eBay. I plan to resell mine when I am finished with it.

Bostitch MIIIFN
This air stapler was a life saver. I laid about 1900 square feet in my new house without one misfire. That was just over 20000 staples. The staples held very well and if I had it to do over again, I wouldn't change a thing. This air gun is well worth the money! It took me approximately 18 hours in my spare time to lay the hardwood floor. I am wery satisfied.

Nailer Breakdown
I was able to install 160 square feet of a 900 square foot flooring job before my nailer broke. Stanley considers this broken part "normal wear", and Amazon will not take back opened merchandise. Just a heads up to contractors who may worry about buying tools online- don't do it. My regular supplier would have given me a new nailer no questions asked.

Swing away (if you want)
I'm a small volume custom home builder with a crew of five. We install the hardwood flooring on most of our jobs. We have used a manual powernailer for years. Recently I purchased Bostitch's MIIIFN floor nailer and now have moved our manual nailer to the back of the tool bin. Just a light tap is all that is required to fire the nail. In the event the board is slightly bowed feel free to swing away and hammer the board in place. This tool is easy on my carpal tunnel and for those who aren't ambidexterious it's a snap to use with either hand. It does take some time getting used to dragging the air hose around with you, and you definitely need ear protection. But the benefits far outweigh these nuisances. ... Read more

Features

• Soft grip handle
• Powerful 15 amp all ballbearing motor
• Worm drive gear train
• Built -in saw hook
• Magnesium "waffle design" footplate

Reviews (22)

The Future Industry Standard
After using many sidewinders, I finally went to the worm drive and can only ask myself; what took you so long? This saw is used regularly for framing and decking and it is a workhorse. It is light, relatively speaking. It has the magnesium motor housing and sole plate which makes it noticeably lighter then even the mag77. One of the best things about this saw is the sole plate. It is rigid and durable like the Porter Cable sole plate. You can't bend it, and you can't say that about any of the other worm drive saws that I have seen. The saw comes with a rafter hook attached which is a necessity.

The bottom line on this saw, is that it is truly a joy to use. It is by far the most accurate circular saw I've ever used. You can accurately and squarely shave 1/32nd off the end of a framing member and it almost follows a chalk line by itself. It has a 15 amp motor and I've used it regularly to cut laminated beams (it takes two full depth cuts on opposite sides) and it has plenty of power for the task. For framing and general carpentry, you will be hard pressed to find a better made, better performing saw.

The ante has been upped
I love competition with the Power tool companies. It means that the tools just keep getting better. I love my mag 77 saws but they are no longer the best you can buy. Dewalt must have cut into the sales of Skils wormdrive market with their innovative framers saw. I like some of the features on it but still prefer the Skilsaw for its torque and durability. Skil and Bosch must have been listening to their customers because this new (Old) saw is much better than the original 77 or the Mag 77. The shoe is stiffer now. The power is a little better, not that it was lacking before. The hook is nice. Thanks Dewalt. The best thing though is the easier to use guard. It really works better. This truly is the best saw money can buy. It will not only outlast everything else on the market, it will make you smile every time you use it.

good but
well i have had this saw for a few weeks and its great saw but i have two complaints one is that the lower gard lever is plastic and the other is you cant prop the lower gard like you can on a skil 77 wormdrive just wondering cause there made by the same people so whats up with that

essential
this saw became an essential part of my tool collection the day i got it. i have used it for a bunch of framing as well as cutting in ridge vents, siding, sheathing and all around general construction. easy to cut a straight line, great visibility, 15 amp motor. from the same company that makes skil saws, so i trust its reliability. in my opinion - worth every penny.

All of these reviews are right!
I own six worm drives, two of which are now Bosch, the other four are Skil Mags. I have to admit that I don't always choose the Bosch first. I try to reserve it for more "Special" projects. It may be silly but I try to protect this very durable tool from itself. After two years and many thousands and thousands of cuts, they still perform as they did right out of the box, with precision, speed and solid, comfortable control.

In my opinion Bosch makes some of the very best tools available today. If Amazon could vouch for me, they would tell you that I have most of the Bosch tools available though their website. This saw hovers at the very top of tools that I have purchased in my 28 years of construction experience.

Bosch tools and Amazon.com prices and service has greatly improved my attitude about buying tools. I am always looking for ways to improve the way I perform on my jobs and believe that good tools are a big part of the quality we strive for.

Buy the saw, you won't regret it. ... Read more

Features

• 13' - 23' Extension height, adjustable in 1' increments
• 6' - 11' Stepladder height, adjustable in 1' increments
• 300 lb OSHA rated Extra Heavy Duty

Product Description

The Super Air 8 Professional Air Purifier has a permanent filter system that quietly cleans the air in your home of allergens, dust and dirt - completely purifiying the air in a 900 square foot room every hour. The permanent filter cleans in just minutes with detergent and water; simply rinse and re-insert. An indicator light tells you when the filter needs cleaning. No need to buy expensive replacement parts time and time again. The money you save means the Oreck unit virtually pays for itself. Permanent Filter with 12-Year Guarantee Never Needs Replacing.Captures and Destroys Bacteria. HEPA filters found in other types of machines tend to hold moisture in, which actually breeds mold and releases it back into the room. HEPA filters act on the principle of a simple window screen and often pass through accumulated dirty particles which can be forced back out into the room. HEPA filters quickly clog and become ineffective. So they need to be replaced regularly and are costly. By contrast, the filtration efficiency of the Oreck Super Air 8 Professional Air Purifier is up to 95%. It traps particles as minute as 0.1 microns or one thousand times smaller than a single human hair. It will also capture mold, pet hair and dander, dust mites, common household dust and allergens. Once caught in the filter, bacteria cannot survive. ... Read more

Features

• The Super Air 8 Professional Air Purifier completely regenerates the air in a 30'x 30' room every hr
• It uses electronic precipitation, with 5-stage filtration - the same system used in the US Submarine
• The Super Air 8 Professional Air Purifier has a permanent filter system that quietly cleans the air
• completely purifiying the air in a 900 square foot room every hour.
• The permanent filter cleans in just minutes with detergent and water; simply rinse and re-insert.

Reviews (9)

Poor customer service
I bought two of the air purifiers even though I heard Oreck had terrible customer service.All I wanted was the serial number and they kept me on hold for 45 minutes and then I just gave up.I called again and held for 20 minutes and then gave up again.I tried sending an e-mail and still haven't heard a reply after a week.

Also, doesn't help if you have allergies...I still wake up sneezing every morning even though the unit is in our bedroom.I bought two and think it was a waste of money.

Please don't waste your money!
I wish we can give this 0 stars, but 1 was the lowest it can go.We bought 2 Oreck XL air cleaners a year ago direct and recently made our last payment.We feel compelled to share our experiences with your units. We are VERY disappointed with them! They are very ineffective if at all.Yes, there are some dust particles that were trapped in the fins, but they are no more than what would be on a $20 circular table fan ... no surprise since you have a rotating fan unit in the Oreck XL.One of our relatives has Sharper Image's Ionic Breeze. While that's probably ineffective as well based on what we've read, at least they can and are returning their's after 3 years for their money back, since Sharper Image has a LIFETIME satisfaction guarantee.Oreck only has a 90 day moneyback guarantee.We will be putting our 2 units on Ebay soon, with the hopes of recouping some of our money.Product marketing at its worst!

secret upkeep costs, bad customer service
our household bought 2 of these and turns out they do need replaceable filters.these are charcoal filters the company says you don't need but if they don't clean the air with out them then I think you need them. Lots of up keep cost, have to buy a special cell cleaner from them too that isn't cheap. these worked at first but after a year, I don't think they do anything.and the worst thing is we're still makeing payments.don't do it.

Not as effective as advertised.
I bought 4 of these units from a local Oreck store.We live in a new neighborhood with lots of construction going on.Dust is a big problem.We also have 2 dogs that seem to shed year round.Recently our HEPA filters needed changing of the filtering element so I thought we'd give the Oreck Signature serries a try.Based on one week of usage:

Construction quality is good with 3 exceptions.One, the swichtes are chrome plated plastic and wobbles.I'm sure with time, the chrome with rub out (like those old TV knobs).Two, the prefilters are real thin.I think if we wash it a few times, it will fall apart.Three, the collection plates have thin wires which runs the width.They look real fragile (the sales lady cringed and asked my not to touch them on the display models).You're not supposed to wipe the plates down like the Ionic Breezes.They recommend a specific foaming solution.

In actual use, the performance is truly disappointing. My wife and I notices that our allergy worsened after changing to these machines.The filtration efficiency is no where near that of a HEPA machine.I think that this is because of it's filtering principle.These machines' main filtration mechanism depends on the generation of a static charge on adjacent dust particles, which would cause it to stick to the metallic collection plates.This works well if air flow is really slow (as in the Ionic Breeze).However, in such a small machine, when you turn the fan on medium or high, air passes through the collection plates at such high velocity that it simply does not fall onto the collection plates.So these machines actually do a better filtering job at its silent setting.When turned on medium or high, the only thing that really does the filtering is the prefilter.Try it for yourself.This is counter intuitive, since most other filters do a better job at high flow rates.I guess if you leave it on siltent all the time, eventually the pollutants will get filtered.I think this is why other users find it effective.A nice thing about these machines is that you can turn the ionizer function on and off.Good thing since turning it on emits ozone, which may not be the best thing for your health.

In terms of consumables, there are the charcoal filters that needs replacement every 3 months or so, and the foam cleaner.The charcoal only filters odor, so if you odor is not a problem, you don't need to replace the charcoal.

In summary, these are reasonaby built machines that just is not as effective as a HEPA filter.They are better than nothing, and I think that's why most people think that they are effective.I don't dispute that they work, because they do.They simply work at an incredibly inefficient rate.If you value extreme quietness, and are willing to leave these on all the time, these may be right for you.Otherwise save your money and buy a HEPA machine.I returned all 4, the Oreck folks are great at taking things back.

NO MORE HEADACHES
Moved to Louisiana few years ago and have had allergy/sinus problems since. Would wake up in morning with sinus headache and felt nauseated.After ONE night using
the Oreck I woke up refreshed and my sinuses were clear.In addition, my husband did not snore and stated he felt great!!It has been a week now and I would not be
without it.I never would have believed it would make such a difference in how I feel. By the way, my husband still does not wake me up with his loud snoring.Highly recommend this product. ... Read more

Amazon.com

There are lots of options for mounting a benchtop planer, but this is one of the best. While it's predrilled precisely for DeWalt planers, a few seconds with a drill fixes that problem. It's made of rugged, durable, heavy-gauge steel and assembles fairly easily in under an hour. When locked, the unit's rock-stable, but just trip the pedal that engages the wheels and you're moving. It's the perfect stand for the home woodworker because when you're done planing, you can move the unit out of the center of the room and store it against a wall effortlessly.--Kris Jensen-Van Heste ... Read more

Features

• Supports all benchtop planers
• Constructed from heavy gauge steel brackets for durability
• Pedal engages and disengages the wheels under the stand to allow easy movement of the planer
• Pre-drilled to accomodate any DEWALT planer for convenience

Reviews (12)

This is a very high quality shop accessory!
I received this mobile planer stand for Christmas and I am very pleased with it. The packaging was adequate and the assembly instructions were basic and easy to follow. Working alone I had this stand assembled in about 45 minutes. I was amazed that all of the pre-drilled holes were precisely where they needed to be. None were off even a little bit! Although the picture here on Amazon shows this planer stand without the (included) lower shelf installed, I went ahead and installed mine. I think this is a great feature to include with this product as it adds an extra storage spot and it also adds rigidity to the stand (although it felt very sturdy anyway). For now I have put my Delta planer on the stand and am pleased with the utility of this product. The only thing I can think of that could be improved a bit, and this is minor, is the particle-board top of the stand. I felt it was a bit undersized and also a bit too thin. If I were redesigning this tool I would have made the top twice as thick to add strength as well as weight to cut down on vibration. As I said though, this is a very minor criticism. Overall I highly recommend this mobile stand as a quality product and a good value for the money!

Great Stand! Instructions need work
The stand is very solid and well built, aside from some errors in the instructions it went together quickly.

There were a couple of problems with the instructions:
1) The nuts and bolts in my kit required a 13mm socket & wrench, NOT the 1/2" stated in the directions.
2) The pictures of the bolts and the instructions are misleading. The shorter bolts should be used to attach the wheels and the foot pedal assembly and the longer ones are needed to mount the Dewalt 735 planer to the top. The instructions show them the other way around.

A good stand for a good planner
I bought this stand to use with my DW735 planner and after using it for five months, I have nothing but good to say about it. All parts are very well made and assembly is straitforward. The parts practically fall together. I have assembled many stamped steel stands over the years, and this was probably the easiest. The base has three wheels, two fixed and one castoring. The castor has a foot pedal to raise and lower the stand. The pedal is large and easy to use, even for people with big feet(like me). The pedal can be installed inside or outside the stand. Placing it outside makes it easier to reach, but placing it inside reduces the tripping hazard to people with big feet(like me). Moving the planner/stand combination by pulling on the planner handle is easy and there is no tendacy to tip. It is very manuverable. The stand is absolutly stable in use and I have never had problems with it moving when locked down.
At first, I was concerned with the top. It is not as sturdy looking as the rest of the stand. I considered replacing it with birch ply or at least heavier particle board. But after using it a few times, I forgot about wanting to change it.
One surprise with the product was the addition of a shelf that was not shown in any picture of the stand I've seen. The installation instruction for the shelf are on a seperate sheet, as though it where added after production began. How often does a manufacturer add something to a product? I've considered enclosing the stand with sheet metal and fabricating a door to create a storage area but I haven't done it yet.
You could build a stand as good for less cost but who has the time? It's hard to justify the expense and time committment woodworking requires if all you build are shop fixtures. I'd rather spend my limited time in the shop building furniture. Gotta keep Mama happy!

You gotta be pulling my leg!
Really Folks,

I can understand how contractors could benefit from a lightweight portable metal stand. However, I can't see how anyone else could be so excited about this contraption. It is hardly inexpensive at $100. It's some bent sheetmetal and particleboard! Assuming access to a table saw and basic skills, anyone should be able to produce a more elegant and less costly solution. A plywood box with wheels will do that very well. Better yet would be to add a door and shelves for storage. Two hours working plywood beats one hour assembling sheetmetal with all the screws, washers, nuts, wrenches, instructions, etceteras. A plywood stand could be used to store the manual, replacement knives, knife changing tools, and extension cord to name a few. Let's get realistic!

I have suggestions for assemblying the stand
Assembling the stand is almost easier if you don't look at the instructions. If you can put together a jigsaw puzzle you can put the stand together. In fact, if you just look at the illustrations and use your common sense you are way ahead of the game. But I've made a list of my own helpful hints that will serve you well if you follow them. This is a first class stand and having assembled it and having an 80-pound planer on top of it I am very glad I spent the extra bucks to get it. The pressboard top is the only cheesy thing about it and Dewalt should be embarrassed that they cut corners on this part. The four Phillips head bolts/screws, used to hold the top to the stand, almost pull through the top with any kind of torque at all. Still, since it has predrilled holes for the planer, I used it because I wanted to get up and running and I didn't want to take the time to build my own top, which I may do later.

First, find a nice comfortable workspace big enough to lay this thing out. I used the back of my pickup truck bed and sliced open the top of the shipping box and left the big parts in the bottom of the box. I also had a couple of sawhorses with a sturdy flat top to hold pieces as I assembled them. Second, do yourself a big favor; get three little boxes or trays to sort the nuts, bolts, and washers into. Be careful here, there are TWO LOCK NUTS that look similar to the other nuts but have nylon inserts. Also, there is a second bag of nuts and bolts and washers inside the first bag. Keep this bag sealed and put it into one of the trays since you will use them last to bolt your planer to the stand. The next-to-the-last bolts/screws you will use are the Phillips, which is used to attach the top to the stand so you can put them aside as well. Find a clear place to stack all of the similar stand pieces. I found that finger tightening all the nuts and bolts was a smart thing to do [just in case you put the wrong piece in the wrong place] you can easily tighten everything after it is put together. I used a 13mm socket on a 6-inch extension with a 3/8 ratchet. The ½" socket the instructions ask you to use is just a little too large and may round off the nuts. The only other tool I used was a small crescent wrench and only had to use it twice. Once, with the locknut-wheel-assembly and again when attaching the stand to the roll-around wheelbase.

Let's use the lock nuts first and get them out of our way. They go on two of the [four] shoulder bolts, which go through the center hole of each wheel bracket then through each of the two wheels, then onto the roll-around base. Look at the lock nut. One side shows the nylon the other side doesn't. The side that doesn't screws onto the bolt. This is where you will need your socket and another wrench. You put the wheels and brackets on the end opposite the rubber feet. Use the small carriage bolts, lock washers and nuts for the two outside holes of the bracket. Next put the foot pedal onto the roll-around base. As you look at the pedal, it has a set of holes that you will never use. Don't let them confuse you. You will use the bracket opposite the wheel itself with it's own set of holes to attach the pedal to the roll-around base. Hold the roll-around base with the rubber feet toward you and put the foot pedal inside the base [wheel down, pedal up] align the two bracket holes over the base holes and now use the last two shoulder bolts, lock washers and nuts to attach the foot pedal. You're done with the roll-around base. Put it aside and work on the stand next.

Here you will use all carriage bolts, lock washers and nuts for the stand. Pick up the front-panel, the piece with the big Dewalt name on it. Put one leg on either side. All Legs Will Be On The Outside of both the two front and the two side metal panels. Finger tighten the carriage bolts, lock washers and nuts. Put the other two legs on the meal rear-panel, which is the same size as the Dewalt panel. Now attach the short metal side-panels to the legs. [The Dewalt front-panel and the rear-panel will be on top of the two side panels. [see illustration to see what I mean. See how the big panels lay on top of the shorter panels?] Next attach the two side brackets halfway down the legs on the same end as you attached the side panels. Then attach the tray to the side brackets. You're done with the stand.

Now place the roll-around rack on a table [my pickup bed] where it won't get away from you [wheels to the left and rubber feet to the right] as you face it. Remove the left most carriage bolt holding the wheel bracket to the roll-around stand and the one opposite it on the other bracket. Put the stand inside the roll-around base [Dewalt panel toward you] and re-insert the wheel bracket carriage bolts and the last two carriage bolts on the other leg to the stand and you're done except for the top. Tighten every nut and bolt and then line up the top with the holes and insert the phillips bolts/screws and you're really done until you bolt the planer to the top using the sealed bag of nuts and bolts which you didn't open until now right! ... Read more

Amazon.com Product Description

Point-and-shoot used to be a term reserved for easy-to-operate cameras; who knew it could be so easily translated to the world of sprayers? This Gilmour 4-gallon wheel pump sprayer requires no hand pumping or heavy lifting. Merely roll it to your target, aim, and spray. The unique wheel pump apparatus pressurizes the contents as you push the sprayer back and forth. Use the built-in pressure relief valve to depressurize the sprayer upon completion of your job. The unit has an extra-wide 4-1/4-inch mouth opening for quick filling, an easy-to-clean filter, and a drain at the bottom of the unit. It also features a flexible, 16-inch, rotating polymer wand with an adjustable polymer nozzle and a 72-inch premium PVC hose. Now spraying your lawn or garden is as easy as taking a stroll. ... Read more

Features

• Flexible 16" rotating polymer wand with adjustable polymer nozzle
• Pressurizes as you walk or roll it back and forth
• Easier to handle, wheels carry the weight
• Extra wide 4-1/4" mouth opening for easy fill and cleaning
• Chemical resistant polymer discharge valve with comfort grip

Reviews (8)

Great Product and a Huge Time Saver!
Here in Texas, we have just about every kind of pest or annoying plant immaginable...fire ants, johnson/crab grass, huge grass hoppers, scorpions, nasty spiders, tough-to-kill weeds, etc.

Needless to say, I have to spray a variety of garden products on my yard, both to keep it looking presentable and to keep it safe for bare feet. I've used a common two-gallon pump sprayer and a 4-gallon backpack sprayer for years to apply weed killers and insecticides, but carrying a 16-30lb container around a 10,000sqft. yard gets old pretty quick.

This Gilmour 4-gallon sprayer is awesome! No carrying, no pumping, and no backache. You just push it about 25-30 ft, and it's pressurized. From there, movement around the yard keeps the pressure up. The sprayer also has a nice long hose, so you can reach pretty far back into planted areas, without having to push the sprayer through mulch and soft-earth.

Compared with my old sprayers, this thing has a nice wide mouth, so it's tough to spill chemicals down the side. It's also transparent enough to actually see the fill-points and measurement marks, so overfilling is much less of a problem than with opaque sprayers.

I haven't experienced any problems with leaking or spillage from the filled container, as reported by other reviewers...perhaps the model has been modified since they were written?

This product is also a big time saver, even over similarly-sized backpack sprayers...the push-to-pump (actually, I pull it along behind me) action just leaves you much more nimble, and able to move around smoother. I find that I over-spray much less, use less chemical, and finish about 15 minutes faster (less refilling, less waste, smoother motion and action, etc).

This is definately one of the best garden products I've ever purchased. A truly wonderful and smartly-designed lawn and garden sprayer!

Good Sprayer but...
This is a good sprayer when compared to other sprayers on the market. However, I found that the pressure was not as good as I expected. My use is for spraying larger areas such as driveways and paths rather than spot spraying of individual weeds. The lack of pressure just didn't work for me. I returned the product.

It Will Pay for Itself (not to mention time savings)
No only did I experience all the good things the other 4 Star reviews said, but I only used about 2 gallons on a spray job that usually takes me 3 refills using a 2 gallon pump sprayer - that's using only 1/3 of chemical as with the pump sprayer for the same job!! (and it also only takes about 1/3 - 1/2 the time because of not having to stop and pump, and not having to go back and refill the tank)

Good but a Few changesnges Could Make Great
I just purchased this from Amazon being the anly place that I could find a sprayer on wheels since I have about 1/1/2 acres of grass and weeds that needs to be sprayed. I must say that I am very pleased with my purchase. It only takes about twenty feet worth of rolling to get it going enough for spraying weeds and the more you walk around the better it becomes. When you are done all you have to do is put the hose into a hole in the handle and keep the switch that lets spray flow out on and it will drain back into the container of the fluid. Since the fluid and the pressure contianer are separate which is good because then you can add stuff wihtout worrying about your pressure. When you are done you have to remember to clean out the filter or it won't work otherwise. And the only other thing I would add would be a stirring mechanism to keep the solution from settling.

Terriffic Sprayer
I really like this item, especially the fact that you don't have to hand pump it or carry it around. It holds 4 gallons which is another plus, you're not having to refill it all the time as with a smaller sprayer. I did have a problem with it not pressurizing once but it turned out to be because I missed cleaning out the plug thing. The only thing I would like to see added to this sprayer is some sort of stirring or mixing mechanism to keep your sprays from settling.
I don't regret buying this one in the least, and it qualified for free shipping also, which didn't hurt any :) ... Read more

Features

• Applications from drywall cut-out to holes in light gauge metal with the proper accessories
• Comes standard with 1/4" and 1/8" collets
• Tool-free bit change for fast and eay bit changing without a wrench
• 26,000 rpm motor provides more cutting power
• Dust sealed switch provides durability and long switch life

Features

• Rated at 250lbs.
• Five year warranty